Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

same clutch again, I like it :)

No point going nismo twin plate for a car making about 350kW I reckon.. money better spent elsewhere. I got to stop letting people borrow my car, probably why it's lead to premature death of clutch.

same clutch again, I like it :)

No point going nismo twin plate for a car making about 350kW I reckon.. money better spent elsewhere. I got to stop letting people borrow my car, probably why it's lead to premature death of clutch.

They must be total muppets to kill it in such a small amount of time.

My thing; been in the car for almost 9 years, over 300 7000 RPM plus launches, holding 475 kw. No rebuild, no nothing. Feels the same as a brand new one which i drove last night. Pays for itself really.

  • Like 1

Well other guys here have had great success with the clutch, so either mine is faulty OR my mates really just wore down the clutch driving it.

I'll find out next week, determined to pull it out, inspect it and I'll also do the turbo next week too.. I have all the lines/bolts/nuts/intake/gate ready to go.. just need to fab up a dump & screamer pipe..

Oh yeah, the 2-way Nismo is in too :)

Iv got a Jim berry full Monty best clutch ever in my opinion great to drive with and can handle as much power you want to through at it realisticly I got mine for $1000 off here and installed it myself and got the slave reco'd and braided line for $100ish

^ yeah that was going to be my first option (a few years ago), then someone showed me exploding JB clutches and smashed up bell housings. Then I went for NPC :)

Everyone has been having great luck with them, except mine.

  • 2 weeks later...
^ yeah that was going to be my first option (a few years ago), then someone showed me exploding JB clutches and smashed up bell housings. Then I went for NPC :)

Everyone has been having great luck with them, except mine.

Is there a coolant leak or oil leak into the clutch area at all? Seems odd your having these troubles. My recon NPC clutch feels really good and just as bitey as always

Is there a coolant leak or oil leak into the clutch area at all? Seems odd your having these troubles. My recon NPC clutch feels really good and just as bitey as always

** weird thought I replied to this thread on that tapatalk app... clearly not

There are no coolant leaks or oil leaks around the clutch area, besides the typical RB cam over leak. I was supposed to pull out the clutch during the break but was hungover everyday so never got around to it lol

What people done realise is that there is very little available meat on the clutch that wears. The difference between New and worn is about 0.8 to 1mm. So any driving that slips the clutch wears it at a rapid rate. This includes people who can't use a clutch Properly and slip off the lights etc.

Pull it out and measure the wear. Might be able to get away with just replacing the disk

  • 2 months later...

UPDATE:

Pulled off the box (well I paid a pro this time, was lazy but glad I did).. turns out my NPC clutch looked as good as it did the day I put it on. We measured the disc it was about 0.04mm worn (which is nothing), both disc & pressure plate were in top notch. Had the pressure plate tested and the clamp was actually 1870 kg..

So why was it slipping you ask?

The previous owner had installed the incorrect bearing carrier so when the box was placed back onto the motor essentially the clutch was being ridden all day long ever so slightly.

So whilst the box was off, Scott from Western Clutch cleaned and inspected all my parts.. turns out ALSO my clutch fork was fractured.. lucky it never broke because that wouldn't have been fun.

Executive Decision Time

Since everything was off & being sorted, I told Scott I had issues going into gear on the track when I was in super dooper high RPM. He mentioned that the plates Doug used were heavy and when you press the clutch pedal to change gears, the inertia of the disc keeps the box spinning and hence it crunches when you select a new gear.. I bit the bullet and changed to a lighter custom carbotic plate.

At the same time, Scott modified my pressure plate, machined it and machined a step onto my fly wheel. He also replaced my bearing, bearing carrier (new), clutch fork (new) & spigot bush.

By the end of it, I now have a clutch that feels as light as a Yaris clutch (I'm not kidding either) with a clamp of 1700kg and no more crunching at high rpm shifts.

Sometimes it's actually worth paying a professional than doing it yourself.

Cheers & big thank you to Scott, his dad & team at Western Clutch at St Mary's :yes:

Now, anyone want to buy a 10" NPC Carbotic clutch disc that's nearly new? under 14 000 km old (3 track days, 1 skid day, and at the time car only had 200kW) :woot:

  • 1 year later...

Sorry for bringing up an old thread! But am looking at purchasing a clutch for my r34gtt. Plan to make about 350rwk.. just wondering if the npc 10" hd carbotic is still the recommended choice for handling street/few track days a year and launches ect.

Cheers guys

NPC can probably answer that question for you. Honestly, they are not just trying to sell as many clutches as they can, they will help you choose the right one for your application.

It should be fine. Go the Billet flywheel as well as it directs a bit of air through the clutch as it spins. The main killer of these clutches is excessive heat, so as long as you arent riding the shit out of it, you shouldnt have an issue.

Mine is street driven and taken to the drags once in a while, my clutch was fine last time it was out of the car, no signs of any problems at all. I got it rebuilt as a preventative thing, but I dont think it was necessary at all. Had an NPC clutch for probably 6 years now.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Hope the cans went down well at least 
    • 255 can't go wrong with the price.
    • When I was replacing my pump due to being stranded in the wrong state, I went with the Deatschwerks 320lph kit. It is a direct plug in to the stock wires, harness, everything. It comes with a plug... but you can plug the OEM plug directly into this thing. https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD Downside: Won't actually flow that much on boost if you want to push it on E85, but it's comparable to the 040/255 etc. Little more actually.
×
×
  • Create New...