Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Pressure between lift pump and surge tank would be low - less than 3psi I would think. Depends on hose length and diameter.

I think you would be better off using a single fluid sensor/switch. We use a capacitance style switch that changes state if the fluid doesn't surround the sensor. Can't remember who makes it - some German company.

Also I wouldn't ever map effective fuel pump duty vs tps on a turocharged car especially on a non positive displacement pump. Really need to map pump duty vs manifold pressure.

  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I am not sure where the experience of empty surge tanks killing engines comes from...to me it sounds a like a bit of an internet myth.

I have run the race car out of fuel a twice during races- surge tank empties, car coughs in corner, driver backs off. I have also had a fuel pump fail (came loose in tank tearing wiring off after a rally crash). In 3 cases, even though it has happened to me at full throttle and very hot motor each time, it has not resulted in any damage.

The fact is, it is vey unlikely that a car will fire with insufficient fuel pressure. You need approx 7:1 to 20:1 for a cylinder to fire. If you drop to 50% or less of the expected pressure, you can almost guarantee a missfire, not a lean out. And even in a cylinder or 2 fires lean once or twice, there is no way it will keep firing at that level, it will almost instantly start missifirng.

I run Paul's Engine Monitor too, and that is defiantely your answer. Just set a warning on low fuel pressure. That way not matter whether it is the main pump, lift pump, main tank, surge tank or even regulator that fails, you will be warned.

actually, on second thoughts I have run out of fuel 3 times. Happened at an enduro at Oran Park years ago too.

Same thing....it coughed coming off the bridge, I backed off and drove into the pits swearing.

No engine damage

Pressure between lift pump and surge tank would be low - less than 3psi I would think. Depends on hose length and diameter.

I think you would be better off using a single fluid sensor/switch. We use a capacitance style switch that changes state if the fluid doesn't surround the sensor. Can't remember who makes it - some German company.

Also I wouldn't ever map effective fuel pump duty vs tps on a turocharged car especially on a non positive displacement pump. Really need to map pump duty vs manifold pressure.

Firstly, the fuel pump duty wont be based on TPS posistion. I should have furthered what i was trying to say. I'm using a fuel lab pump. It has a voltage input for speed control or you can use a PWM to control it. I'm using the voltage input to control it. Under 2.5V to the input, the pump runs low duty, above 2.5V the pump runs at full duty. I'm simply pulling the 0-5V off the TPS and feeding it into the signal input on the pump. So at around 40-50% TPS the pump will then change over to full duty.

Yes a capacitance sensor would be very good, however, seeing that my surge tank is already made, this would be hard to fit as i have no way of accessing the inside of the tank.

The length from the lift pump to the surge tank is about 1 metre of 5/16" fuel line with a Ryco fuel filter in this line.

I am not sure where the experience of empty surge tanks killing engines comes from...to me it sounds a like a bit of an internet myth.

I have run the race car out of fuel a twice during races- surge tank empties, car coughs in corner, driver backs off. I have also had a fuel pump fail (came loose in tank tearing wiring off after a rally crash). In 3 cases, even though it has happened to me at full throttle and very hot motor each time, it has not resulted in any damage.

The fact is, it is vey unlikely that a car will fire with insufficient fuel pressure. You need approx 7:1 to 20:1 for a cylinder to fire. If you drop to 50% or less of the expected pressure, you can almost guarantee a missfire, not a lean out. And even in a cylinder or 2 fires lean once or twice, there is no way it will keep firing at that level, it will almost instantly start missifirng.

I run Paul's Engine Monitor too, and that is defiantely your answer. Just set a warning on low fuel pressure. That way not matter whether it is the main pump, lift pump, main tank, surge tank or even regulator that fails, you will be warned.

Yes, theory would say the engine would just cut out when it runs out of fuel. Simon a friend of mine who had this issue said that his lift pump failed, BUT the two 044's he had created enough suction to actually draw fuel from the main tank into the surge tank and allow the engine to run. But surging and lean out occurred.

Put an fpr in the line just before the surge tank so only that part of the line will be pressurised (not the surge tank). Adapt an oil pressure warning light switch and T it in before the fpr. You can have a buzzer or light on your dash. When your tank is running low the buzzer will come on and off (as petrol surges away fom the pickup) and when its buzzing continuously you will know you are down to the 3L in your surge tank.

I am not sure where the experience of empty surge tanks killing engines comes from...to me it sounds a like a bit of an internet myth.

I have run the race car out of fuel a twice during races- surge tank empties, car coughs in corner, driver backs off. I have also had a fuel pump fail (came loose in tank tearing wiring off after a rally crash). In 3 cases, even though it has happened to me at full throttle and very hot motor each time, it has not resulted in any damage.

The fact is, it is vey unlikely that a car will fire with insufficient fuel pressure. You need approx 7:1 to 20:1 for a cylinder to fire. If you drop to 50% or less of the expected pressure, you can almost guarantee a missfire, not a lean out. And even in a cylinder or 2 fires lean once or twice, there is no way it will keep firing at that level, it will almost instantly start missifirng.

I run Paul's Engine Monitor too, and that is defiantely your answer. Just set a warning on low fuel pressure. That way not matter whether it is the main pump, lift pump, main tank, surge tank or even regulator that fails, you will be warned.

This, if your lift pump dies, as soon as you use up whats in the surge tank your engine will simply cough then die. Sure, it might run lean for a split second but no where near long enough to kill it. As for the main pump drawing fuel from the tank, thats simply not possible with a conventional surge tank setup (as in a recirculating setup, with an overflow back to the main tank) as even if they managed to create enough suction they'd simply suck air from the return, not fuel through the dead pump. The only time its possible for a lift pump to kill your motor is if it flows the exact amount needed to create a lean out without going lean enough to miss and even then you'd have to be on WOT for a long time to drain the surge tank whilst its still being partially refilled.

as kitto said... i melted 2 pistons as a result of leaning out with a dead pump... certainly didnt cough and die.. didnt even know it had happened. the two 044's continued to suck fuel thro the lift pump and full tank. all the signs of leaning out were there tho. engine ran hotter, overheating issues etc.

as kitto said... i melted 2 pistons as a result of leaning out with a dead pump... certainly didnt cough and die.. didnt even know it had happened. the two 044's continued to suck fuel thro the lift pump and full tank. all the signs of leaning out were there tho. engine ran hotter, overheating issues etc.

weird. how was the surge tank plumbed?

as kitto said... i melted 2 pistons as a result of leaning out with a dead pump... certainly didnt cough and die.. didnt even know it had happened. the two 044's continued to suck fuel thro the lift pump and full tank. all the signs of leaning out were there tho. engine ran hotter, overheating issues etc.

How full was your fuel tank when this happened?

about 3/4 full

The short fuel return tube that is in the tank may have been sucking a good amount of air bubbles in along with the fuel whan it surges around the tank, causing your 044's to cavitate and lose a lot of pressure.

That would have lead to a lean out condition for sure.

If the tank was a bit lower on fuel the suction would never have happened and the surge tank would have just run out of fuel.

either way. the lift pump died and i had no way of knowing about it.

will be wiring a fuel pressure sensor into the reg and wiring into the haltech to monitor it in future.

Simon, do you believe that monitoring just the rail pressure is ok? Or should we also be trying to monitor how much fuel is in the surge tank and/or if the lift pump has failed?

monitoring rail pressure is the best way, as it covers everything except injectors failing. a surge tank level monitor wont cover the main pump dying.

No it wont, but if you monitor both then you've got both avenues covered. I plan on having the Engine Monitior monitor fuel rail pressure vs boost pressure and i just thought it would be a good idea to keep an eye on the surge tank.

Pointless if you have a pressure monitor. If the intank does die your motors not going to instantly blow into oblivion the second fuel pressure drops 5psi. Even if you somehow managed to empty the surge tank at the same time as being on WOT at 7000rpm your pressure monitor will stop you well before you kill the motor.

Edit: Also, I'm not sure what happened in Simons case but i've had my intank stop pumping several times (due to blocked filters, bad wiring etc) and every time the tank simply empties and the car misses then dies, the first sign is actually the 044 cavitating, you can hear it even with the windows up and music playing. It'd be cool to have a level monitor for it but it's just not needed.

Edited by JonnoHR31

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No worries at all 🫡 I think the most satisfying things to make are the little bits that are just impossible to find or they're no longer manufactured. Generally I always try to replace parts with OEM wherever possible. This little project is also great because it'll never see the light of day, but strengthen these brackets so it's not just relying on the little standard screws in the headlight plastic. As soon as I saw the standard brackets and screws I thought, "well I'm not going to install with just the screws, the plastic tabs will just snap off". It's crazy how expensive everything has become yeah. But I suppose that's supply and demand; granted it's a lot easier to get brand new genuine parts these days which is fantastic 😊, I don't have to get totally reamed at the local Nissan dealer ha ha We sure are lucky we have all these manufacturers making parts these days, a few really great Australian companies too like Platinum Racing Products and Fit Mint Automotive, what a time to be alive ❤️ . I've got my eye on the RB26 head by PRP as mine has a very fine hairline crack, so that'll need to be addressed some time in the future. If you have any requests or odd things to make feel free to let me know and I can have a crack at making replacement parts ✌️
    • Thanks for sharing this, and BTW if your headlights are in good condition they are worth thousands....you might want to consider replacing them with brand new LED ones like this (https://www.nengun.com/78works/full-led-headlights-r32-skyline) and making enough profit to buy a house in Sydney
    • I'm not sure what sort of shops are nearby, but I'd expect any reasonable exhaust shop could put a cat in it that will not restrict the power that engine makes. Otherwise, if you want to remove it, short lengths that replace the cat are readily available online, search for "de-cat pipes" or "test pipes"  
    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
×
×
  • Create New...