Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey I'm doing RB25 S2 swap in my R32

I'm keeping the R32 wiring harness and the TPS/throttle valve swith connectors are differents on the s2 engine.

Can anybody give me wiring colors or TPS and throttle valve pinout??

post-71218-0-61886900-1335400115_thumb.jpg

post-71218-0-60072200-1335400272_thumb.jpg

Edited by lowexr
  • 6 months later...

Finally found some info, been searching for awhile now!

I'm using a RB20 loom and RB20 ECU (Nistune) and swapping in the S2 RB25.

Tonight i tried to remove the TPS from the RB20 to check it out / mock fit it to the RB25 and i couldn't get it off. Didn't pull very hard but it seemed rather connected to the throttle body.

Will the entire RB20 TB fit on the 25? or are we swapping just the sensor? If so is there any information on this? :)

Does that work? I removed the RB25 TPS and it looks rather different inside, aka it has a mechanical mechanism or lever that moves with the throttle body which turns the SENSOR.

I coulnd't get my RB20 TPS off.. but from images it looks rather different. It looks like it will bolt there... am i missing something? How does the 20 TPS work? airflow?

Sounds like you've got a S2 RB25, you can't switch the RB20 TPS over to the S2 RB25 throttle body.

You'll need an RB25 Series 1 throttle body, the RB20 TPS will bolt straight on.

I'm not sure if the TPS share the linearity, You may be able to wire in the RB25 TPS.

TPS work by sending a 0-5V signal to the ECU. The voltage sent to the ECU depends on the amount the throttle is open. 0% = 0.5V approximately, 100% = Close to 5V IIRC.

Darn, ok well if i was to get a S1 Throttle body.. does anyone know if that will bolt on? (i've tried searching..)

Also my RB20 tps plug goes on the S2 RB25 TPS top plug .. both 3 pin. Anyone know if that will work haha?

I've heard one is for the auto.. is it top or bottom?

Easiest thing to do is send the ecu back to NIStune, they will rewrite the base image to suit the rb25 TPS.

The rb25 tps can be fitted to rb20 TB but have to change the shafts over and a few other niggly things.

Its easier to wire in the rb25 tps and base image

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Price seems pretty good to me. Also seems a hell of a lot cheaper then buying another vehicle that only ever gets used for towing.  I'm a long way from you mate, I'm a couple of hours out of Brizzy. 
    • New [400]Z, they're available in manual and you don't have to worry about parts scarcity. 
    • Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
×
×
  • Create New...