Jump to content
SAU Community

Thread: R32 / Rb25 S2 Swap Tps Question

lowexr

By lowexr,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

lowexr Apprentice

lowexr

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey I'm doing RB25 S2 swap in my R32

I'm keeping the R32 wiring harness and the TPS/throttle valve swith connectors are differents on the s2 engine.

Can anybody give me wiring colors or TPS and throttle valve pinout??

post-71218-0-61886900-1335400115_thumb.jpg

post-71218-0-60072200-1335400272_thumb.jpg

Edited by lowexr
  • 6 months later...
Willis Proficient

Willis

Posted
Posted

Finally found some info, been searching for awhile now!

I'm using a RB20 loom and RB20 ECU (Nistune) and swapping in the S2 RB25.

Tonight i tried to remove the TPS from the RB20 to check it out / mock fit it to the RB25 and i couldn't get it off. Didn't pull very hard but it seemed rather connected to the throttle body.

Will the entire RB20 TB fit on the 25? or are we swapping just the sensor? If so is there any information on this? :)

Willis Proficient

Willis

Posted
Posted

Does that work? I removed the RB25 TPS and it looks rather different inside, aka it has a mechanical mechanism or lever that moves with the throttle body which turns the SENSOR.

I coulnd't get my RB20 TPS off.. but from images it looks rather different. It looks like it will bolt there... am i missing something? How does the 20 TPS work? airflow?

kitto Mentor

kitto

Posted
Posted

Sounds like you've got a S2 RB25, you can't switch the RB20 TPS over to the S2 RB25 throttle body.

You'll need an RB25 Series 1 throttle body, the RB20 TPS will bolt straight on.

I'm not sure if the TPS share the linearity, You may be able to wire in the RB25 TPS.

TPS work by sending a 0-5V signal to the ECU. The voltage sent to the ECU depends on the amount the throttle is open. 0% = 0.5V approximately, 100% = Close to 5V IIRC.

Willis Proficient

Willis

Posted
Posted

Darn, ok well if i was to get a S1 Throttle body.. does anyone know if that will bolt on? (i've tried searching..)

Also my RB20 tps plug goes on the S2 RB25 TPS top plug .. both 3 pin. Anyone know if that will work haha?

I've heard one is for the auto.. is it top or bottom?

DVS JEZ Grand Master

DVS JEZ

Posted
Posted

Easiest thing to do is send the ecu back to NIStune, they will rewrite the base image to suit the rb25 TPS.

The rb25 tps can be fitted to rb20 TB but have to change the shafts over and a few other niggly things.

Its easier to wire in the rb25 tps and base image

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • S1_C34
      Stagea Front CV Axle Question

      By S1_C34 · Posted

      I ordered a GSP Front R/H Axle from here - https://justjap.com/products/gsp-premium-front-driveshaft-r-h-nissan-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gtr-stagea-4wd#description It lasted around a year before one of the boots blew out. I'm lowered, but I have GKTech roll center adjusters. One year seems a little premature. I think I'm going to spend the extra money on an OEM cv axle this time. This website - https://tfaspeed.com/collections/nissan-stagea-wgnc34-x-four-parts/products/nissan-stagea-awc34-260rs-rb26-right-front-axle-drive-assembly Makes it sound like the readily available OEM CV axle will only fit 11.1999 Stagea and up (mine is a 2.1997 S1). The JustJap listing didn't mention any years or anything for the GSP axle. Amayama shows '11.1999' and up as well for that part number. As well as 'plastic boot type'. See attached picture. So I guess my question is, does that axle (39100-23U60) really only fit S2 Stagea? It's the front driver side. If it does, I'd love to buy that instead of rolling the dice on another GSP. I've found that OEM one cheaper here: https://www.partsfornissans.com/oem-parts/nismo-jdm-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gtr-r32-gts4-right-front-axle-3910023u60 and here https://www.nissanparts.cc/oem-parts/nismo-shaft-ft-drive-3910023u60 Just a little confused because the JapSpeed listing for the GSP front driver axle doesn't mention any specific years or anything and it fit my S1 Stagea fine. So will 39100-23U60 fit my S1 Stagea even though technically it says '11.1999' and up? What would have changed? Thanks.  
    • TurboTapin
      CD009 RB Conversion

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      Thanks for the info. The only "Issue" I've had with the shifter is I always found the throw between 4th and 6th gear too close. I'm always worried to shift into 4th accidently and sending my motor to the moon. Adam LZ recently came out with a video and stated Serialnine revised their shifters to correct this and will change all the revised parts for 150$. Strangely enough, I contacted Serialnine right after and they denied it and said it's bullshit. I found that strange as he's a distributer. I'll keep this forum post updated on that saga.
    • Nightmare_mistress_R33
      CD009 RB Conversion

      By Nightmare_mistress_R33 · Posted

      Yep that is correct. It allows you to adjust the short throw range from what I can tell
    • TurboTapin
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      Car has been running great, I've put about 300km's of break in time on it. First thing that stands out with properly sealing rings is no more noticeable crankcase smell coming out of my catch can. This may seem insignificant, but the constant smell while driving around was infuriating. It's also nice to see my oil level remain stable. Two new issues have developed that I only noticed this weekend though. There's a very noticeable driveline vibration past 100kmh. I only noticed it now as I've been babying it under 100kmh in the backroads. This comes as no surprise as I'm running a one-piece shaft, and I paid zero attention to my driveshaft angle when I put everything back in. I also have a fair bit of voltage drop on hot starts. The starter audibly is forcing. No issues on cold start though. I must not have removed all the paint under my main block ground during assembly. I'll try and take care of both those issues this week once the kids are asleep.  I also received all the parts I was missing for my direct port setup. I will hopefully have pictures of that up soon. I'm hoping to get back on the dyno the week of June 30th as I'll be on vacation. I'm confident I should be able to make north of 500rwkw on pump gas and WMI. I'll go back again later this summer with E98, but I want to confirm my ethanol content sensor is working properly first. I've never seen it read anything but 11%. This makes sense for our 10% ethanol content pump gas here, but I would expect the occasional movement between fill ups. 
    • jez NF
      The Evolution Of "night Fury"

      By jez NF · Posted

      75% complete. Will now need to get a new axle with 5x114.3 hubs and then figure out how to customize some mudguards for it once the wheels are on.
×
×
  • Create New...