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A few of our community have had Hypergear hi-flow our standard turbo housing. Please tell us what you had done, your car mods & what results you have achieved.

It's cool if you haven't dyno'd your car (yet), but it's still handy for others to know how your new turbo compares to the old (OEM) one with respect to your driving habits.

Hopefully this thread will be a useful source of information to others considering an upgrade (often through necessity, lol), considering Hypergear provide one of the more reasonably priced services around.

I have some pics which I'll post as soon as I find them, but my full review will have to wait till I've had a chance to go for a proper drive.

Cheers, Leon.

I'll have a road test on the same turbo as what Sk^te just had done on petrol with the standard ECU setup on Saturday! Hoping for good results....or at least a better result than my turbo was on the standard setup!

I'll be interested in seeing if you have the same result as I have.

Changed the IEBC settings so it's only on wastegate pressure, albeit ~15psi due to the actuator spring mod.

Hit some sort of cutout if I feed it too much throttle, mainly in the mid rev range. I suspect ignition timing as AFM didn't get to 5.00V (would go to there previously with no cutout) & AFR's were nice & rich. Time to pull the UpRev Cipher cable out & see if I can get it to work to reduce the timing :)

Here are some pics of before & after. There are 2 step downs on the intake side that have been machined away & a similar amount taken out on the exhaust side.

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I'm impressed by the build quality of the billet SS1PU for the price, its a great budget upgrade and a lot cheaper than any other options around. (This on had the billet front wheel added.)

There were a couple of issues fitting up the turbo, mainly due to the turbo housings not being rotated in the factory position. Luckily I had a stock turbo to work off as the front housing and chra placement need to be spot on, otherwise it will never go back in there. (or you will be doing the job twice.)

The other issue, as was mentioned is the wastegate hole is just too small. This will obviously be rectified on future highflow's but it meant the boost would automatically raise up to 21psi, not something you want when you are trying to tune the car. As Sky^rkt's car is on e85 this isn't as much of an issue but on 98 it would cause detonation when timing was advanced. You can see the boost creep on the graph.

The main thing is, the turbo is small enough to spool up on stall with the stock converter. This means it takes off quite well once tuned, especially with e85 in the tank. I think Cihan has nutted these tunes now, each one he does feels more refined than the last as he learns the ecu's quirks.

Thanks Stao. :cheers:

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Thanks for your input Scotty.

Do you think the boost creep could be held in check if I remove the actuator spring so the wastegate opens much earlier?

Also, do my pictures look anything like the turbo you fitted to sky^rkt's car, or are the wheels even bigger in his?

I'll be interested in seeing if you have the same result as I have.

Changed the IEBC settings so it's only on wastegate pressure, albeit ~15psi due to the actuator spring mod.

Hit some sort of cutout if I feed it too much throttle, mainly in the mid rev range. I suspect ignition timing as AFM didn't get to 5.00V (would go to there previously with no cutout) & AFR's were nice & rich. Time to pull the UpRev Cipher cable out & see if I can get it to work to reduce the timing :)

The ecu wont have a set airflow cut, I would bet its load or duty cycle dependent. Time for an Emanage? :)

Thanks for your input Scotty.

Do you think the boost creep could be held in check if I remove the actuator spring so the wastegate opens much earlier?

Also, do my pictures look anything like the turbo you fitted to sky^rkt's car, or are the wheels even bigger in his?

Boost creep happens because the wastegate cant flow enough, nothing to do with the spring, it would be wide open by then. I should have gotten in there and die ground the hole out but it would have meant removing the turbo. I think Stao will have to get it machined out as big as possible, even to the stage of having a larger puck if its possible. (his idea of a longer leverage point for the actuator wont work on our turbo's)

On a different note, another thing I noticed was that the car breathes a lot better & is most noticeable at idle.

When I did my intake mods (FMIC & more-so the suction pipe), the revs at idle were lower than before. Instead of ~600rpm when warm, it was more like 500rpm.

With the new turbo the car idles like an old school V8. It even stalled when I pulled up at an intersection on its first outing. I noticed the Informeter shows 0% throttle & 1% injector duty cycle at idle - never been that low before.

Increasing the idle speed would be another reason to try out the new Cipher cable.

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The ecu wont have a set airflow cut, I would bet its load or duty cycle dependent. Time for an Emanage? :)

I agree. In past tuning I've noticed that it's more of a combination of factors that causes the ECU to call game over.

It's a long way to drive to Melbourne to get the Emanage tuned :) Even then that would be taking the easy way out, lol.

Boost creep happens because the wastegate cant flow enough, nothing to do with the spring, it would be wide open by then. I should have gotten in there and die ground the hole out but it would have meant removing the turbo. I think Stao will have to get it machined out as big as possible, even to the stage of having a larger puck if its possible. (his idea of a longer leverage point for the actuator wont work on our turbo's)

Do you think grinding it out to the limits of the existing puck would make much of a difference? I reckon I could Dremel it out with just the dump pipe removed (with use of a vacuum cleaner to keep debris out).

I'm not even considering removing the turbo from the car. That is a last resort, lol.

And I too was thankful of having my old turbo on hand to compare. I had to rotate both sides to align the cooling pipes with close to factory locations. I think it's called 'clocking the turbo' I found out later. I'm such a newb at this....

Hey Scotty, I just noticed the rest of your pics (only saw the dyno printout before). Hard to tell if those wheels are much bigger than mine, but looks to be a similar amount of material left around the turbine opening. Different design on the wheels though. Is that the main difference & the reason Marko's made the power?

id probably leave yours i think my wheels are bigger i think yours will be alright, mine is even alright i dont mind it as long as it doesnt jump to like 30psi hahaha

Yeah, I was just asking that question. They certainly look different & being a close up pic look way bigger. Not sure by how much though.

I don't really want to go messing about in there if I can help it. Hopefully a small timing change will solve it.

What's the go with that dump pipe in the pic? Did Scotty make that split design up for you? Looks choice :thumbsup:

Yeah, I was just asking that question. They certainly look different & being a close up pic look way bigger. Not sure by how much though.

I don't really want to go messing about in there if I can help it. Hopefully a small timing change will solve it.

What's the go with that dump pipe in the pic? Did Scotty make that split design up for you? Looks choice :thumbsup:

I wouldn't bother yet, it will only be a problem when you start leaning on the turbo I think, when the airflow and exhaust flow are too great for the wastegate to keep up. You can try die grinding it in the car, Stao mentioned it should be fine, but it would be a pain to do a good job on it. Turbo out for that one.

The dump pipe is the same style I have always made, its around 4 inch at the turbo with a nice funnel down to 3 inch. No splitter required. There is another on on the bench next to it, for a guy in NZ. :)

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Thanks for the input guys. There are two type of cores listed in this thread. The one with the billet wheel is the SS1PU core, and the other is the ATR43G2 core. Both cores has the exact same turbine setup.

The SS1PU billet core is on the larger side and has produce a maximum of 282rwkws on my test car. Since it has a more efficient compressor wheel it is capable of producing greater flow, that could possibly be the cause for the boost creep using the OEM waste gate setup. This is the first SS1PU core that went into the M35 OEM housings, I will take note to replace the OEM waste gate assembly when it is used again.

The ATR43G2 core is on the smaller side and that was capable of making a maximum of 260rwkws on my test car. The M35 that I've road tested it on did not show signs of spiking.

A larger 36mm waste gate assembly using a 32mm internal gate will be fitted for all further M35 OEM turbo high flows services.

The dump pipe is the same style I have always made, its around 4 inch at the turbo with a nice funnel down to 3 inch. No splitter required. There is another on on the bench next to it, for a guy in NZ. :)

OK, must be the same as the one you made for me then. When I looked before my eyes must have been playing tricks on me 'cause I thought it was a split design.

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