Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just want to know has anyone reached 300kw with a silencer in the muffler,

I'll be getting my car tuned next week , would like to see 280-300kw,

Has a GTX3076 0.82 , external 44mm tial, tomei 256cams, 3 1/2inch exhaust but the muffler has the 2 1/2inch silencer. I've tried a 4inch Nur spec muffler on the rear but its crazy loud, and i could try another muffler in the front and that might help but i like the sound of the fujitsubo muffler as well cause its quiet at slow speeds.

So interested in opinions, will this muffler really hold the setup back enough to not use it ? If i cut the restrictor out how much louder will it be?

piggaz managed to push his past 300kw with the 2.5" restrictor in it, but the turbo setup was capable of significantly more power and made significantly more power when that exhaust was removed.

change the muffler for a larger one or add a larger middle muffler and chop out the 2.5" restrictor plate.

how much power is significant?

The 4inch nur spec just sounds loud and drony, would i use a resonator or a muffler to bring out the RB sound? Just tossing up wether its worth losing some power to maintain a nice sound.

Paul was also on E85, which changes the rules a little bit.

I've pushed a 3" exhaust to 370rwkw no problems when not using PULP.

2.5" will hurt the power, i certainly wouldn't push the car with such a small restrictor in there.

As you are external gate as well (assuming), that will also make it a bit easier. Still though... get it removed.

piggaz managed to push his past 300kw with the 2.5" restrictor in it, but the turbo setup was capable of significantly more power and made significantly more power when that exhaust was removed.

change the muffler for a larger one or add a larger middle muffler and chop out the 2.5" restrictor plate.

400, well 402 but for an extra 5 psi (30 psi) it only made it 414. Now in a step back in turbo size with a twin 3 inch exhaust it was sitting at 426 with 8 psi less. Only changes were exhaust, dumps and smaller turbos. Oh and even back to factory airbox!!

Air has to get in AND out!

Would have loved to have seen a back to back with just the exhaust change.

How much of a restriction will a 2.5 inch hole will be on this car is anyone's guess. Maybe drop the 'diff back' once it's all done and do another run. That will give you the answer and only take a few minutes.

400, well 402 but for an extra 5 psi (30 psi) it only made it 414. Now in a step back in turbo size with a twin 3 inch exhaust it was sitting at 426 with 8 psi less. Only changes were exhaust, dumps and smaller turbos. Oh and even back to factory airbox!!

Air has to get in AND out!

Would have loved to have seen a back to back with just the exhaust change.

How much of a restriction will a 2.5 inch hole will be on this car is anyone's guess. Maybe drop the 'diff back' once it's all done and do another run. That will give you the answer and only take a few minutes.

me to, especially with the RSs to see if it also help them come on sooner

I think ill just see what the tuner recommends, hard to see where a muffler could be welded in at the front, not much room with a lowered car, but at the back i can see a huge muffler could be put in there, so hopefully theres some decent 3.5inch ID mufflers that flow well and also cut down the drone and noise.

How do people bring out the meaty RB note? is it to do with the resonator or the muffler or even the tune???

I think ill just see what the tuner recommends, hard to see where a muffler could be welded in at the front, not much room with a lowered car, but at the back i can see a huge muffler could be put in there, so hopefully theres some decent 3.5inch ID mufflers that flow well and also cut down the drone and noise.

How do people bring out the meaty RB note? is it to do with the resonator or the muffler or even the tune???

There is HEAPS of room up near the gearbox for a VERY decent muffler.

I had a 5" body on mine near the gearbox. (In fact, it's still there...)

so tell me , how did it sound then? what brand of muffler, redback has been mentioned by an exhaust shop,

from what i can see under there the dump and cat take up alot of room, i dont wanna chop it all up and make a mess and have to waste money if its not neccessary.

was that an oval muffler? what power did yours make too?

if im going down this track of having a bit of a noisy exhaust then id atleast like to hear the meaty angry RB note, quality still not just loud noise.

Edited by SliverS2

went round a few exhaust shops today, was told theres not enough room for a muffler anywhere but the rear, and the ones they showed me looked cheap and nasty like they imported them from china, brands like redback, gennie where mentioned and prices of $350 spoken about so i just got the fujitsubo welded back on for now,

going to see what it can do on the dyno, maybe have the catback removed to see the difference before doing anything more, so ill be a ginnea pig for this experiment. :whistling:

having thoughts about cutting it out too, wonder if a 3inch pipe could be welded back in to mimick the silencer effect?

Edited by SliverS2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Hope the cans went down well at least 
    • 255 can't go wrong with the price.
    • When I was replacing my pump due to being stranded in the wrong state, I went with the Deatschwerks 320lph kit. It is a direct plug in to the stock wires, harness, everything. It comes with a plug... but you can plug the OEM plug directly into this thing. https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD Downside: Won't actually flow that much on boost if you want to push it on E85, but it's comparable to the 040/255 etc. Little more actually.
×
×
  • Create New...