Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 44
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

You go rev limiter and then step off. :P

this, lol

nah I drive mine like a factory clutch around town, find friction point and ease away, no jerking or shoudering just nice smooth take off, has been in car for near 6 years and when I go to an event it gets bashed then drives home normaly, smother then any other clutch I have driven, and I have had quite a few, one got distroyed in 6 mounths, less then 5000kms

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yeh the one i got isnt old. must just be shit. when people dont do research on parts before they buy it this stuff happens. oh well

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Never paid anything and thats including a Nismo intercooler.

Even the head is coming in 'carry on luggage' haha!

Great! There is a need for a clutch in my immediate future. The rebuilt nismo gmax red cover that I have is starting to make some odd noises... plus its a prick to drive thanks to some modifications done to it by the rebuilders.

Do you use the comp clutch Paul, or is the standard plenty?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Great! There is a need for a clutch in my immediate future. The rebuilt nismo gmax red cover that I have is starting to make some odd noises... plus its a prick to drive thanks to some modifications done to it by the rebuilders.

Do you use the comp clutch Paul, or is the standard plenty?

I use the C spec. I had a look on RHD Japan last night and there was 2,000 yen or so difference. So sweet 2/10ths of nothing.

It's just a heavier pressure plate. With the torque of your stroker, just grab the C spec anyway. It really is a no brainer.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

so how do you drive your twin plates around town? do u find friction point then take off or do u jolt ?

The Super Coppermix has the same driveability as a stock clutch, no savage pickup or jumping during operation.

Best clutch I have ever used.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If no one told you it was a twin plate, you'd think it was the stock clutch. No bullshit.

exactly, that is how I would discribe the twin plate I have

single plate clutchs and 300kw+ gtrs are only ever going to be a short term relationship, best I got was 12,000kms/1 year of "my driving"

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey W34pon; i was facing the same situation as you albeit in a cheaper car; I'd suggest to you that your first instinct is probably right dude; it's gonna be the synchros unfortunately.

It can happen over time (mine gave out around 120,000km) but you can wreck a specific gears synchros by forcing it in when you don't have the gear shifter perfectly aligned...

...Which is easy to do when you are in a high stress situation; such as hammering down a drag strip... or chasing down some evo.

It just doesn't make sense to me that fourth (not a paricularly difficult gear) would be the only one you were having issues with but the others are fine.

When you said "notchy" that set my alarm bells ringing.. i remember very clearly that i used to be able to shift as easy as you would in an astra or a little corolla; and then it gradually changed to notchiness and being "locked out"... the car changes gears when it is ready; not you; and its completely random when it happens.

I am currently having my gearbox reconditioned at a jap specialist in ringwood... i guess if it comes out to a good standard i'll give a breakdown if you're interested.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

this, somewhat true, but GTR boxes are a bit notchy, they arent corollas or pulsars lol.

let him buy the clutch. If its still f**ked then do some sick launches then replace the box :)

...Which is easy to do when you are in a high stress situation; such as hammering down a drag strip... or chasing down some evo.

love that line

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah, but you're an even bigger nutbag than Paul haha

hahaha, I can't argue that

just reread the thread and " little " is spot on with what he has said, when clutchs wearout they seperate further unless the plate has been bent and in which case all gears will give trouble, I'd say it"s time for new syncos

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just did 35,000 of hard kms with close to 400 RWKW most of its life. Easily 250 7000 RPM launches on it. Engine came out 2 months ago and it's going straight back in. No rebuild, no new plates.

C spec is rated at 780 ps where as the normal version is 640 ps

I reckon mine has done even more than yours, and it's still perfectly fine.

Hell I've done 8,000rpm full launches on Hoosier Drag radials - clutch didn't miss a beat and still hasn't.

+1 for coppermix, it really is the only choice for someone that wants the best performance, best clutch feel. They are MUCH lighter than any other twin I've used - ORC, OS etc.

And all Nissan boxes are a little "notchy" in GTR's I've found (GTR/RB25), not one car i've driven has been like silky.

The Getrag 6-speed though does have a different feel to it, you can notice it soon as you drive.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

so how do you drive your twin plates around town? do u find friction point then take off or do u jolt ?

You can come drive mine round the block and see how the clutch feels if you want.

WARNING: You will want one after doing so.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ohh hopefully its not the synchros :(

well at the qtr .. some guy moved my friction point higher and then it engaged after 2 seconds so it might just be the clutch. if it is. damage is done. il just smash it till it dies haha

nah i cant i love my car to much. id still baby the synchros even if their gone lol

ive had a few enquiries so il get one soon. thanks everyone for your advice

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I am currently going this route. I am curious how much horse power you put behind the cut bell housing? Collins was telling me I am going to crack it and bluh bluh bluh. Because I didn’t buy the custom fly wheel from him. I am looking for somewhere around like 500 hp
    • Forgot to mention that these are the before pics when I first got it!
    • Thanks @PranK for the updated member status, much appreciated! 👍🏼 Now, about those pics… Unfortunately I could only find ones that I took in the dark. I was soon to discover that underneath it wasn’t in the best shape, but it was mine and that’s all I cared about at the time 😆
    • Oh, and only having done this task yesterday, I've now driven the car ~60km since, and while it is hard to avoid placebo effect and confirmation bias, I reckon that some annoyances I had with the way the car has been behaving have improved. Which....kinda makes sense, I guess. If the bushes were really stiff and resisting rotation, they would have been contributing to the effective wheel rate. And if it was more so on one side (which it was, because one side was worse than the other) then.... you might imagine that the additional rate would be asymmetric, and potentially even different between compression and rebound. And so... the car has been twitchy at higher speeds - like freeway on ramps. It really shouldn't be. The wheel alignment is good and there are no (other) known problems elsewhere in the suspension. But at 90-100 on a long sweeping ramp, tiny steering wheel motions would make it feel like it wanted to rear steer. Quite nervous. At lower speeds it would heave about in a manner that it didn't use to. Didn't want to put power down, etc etc. Now...seems to behave better. Am going to have to concentrate on the various corners where it has exhibited weirdness, on the rare occasions when I can get a decent run at them without Methanial getting in the way in his D-Max/Ranger/LDV Van/etc.
×
×
  • Create New...