Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Im looking at getting My ECU tuned by toshi for my R33 to improve power and driveability with my current mods and was wondering if anyone else was intersted to see if we could get a group discount?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/298912-cheapest-mail-order-r33-ecu-remap-only-400-also-r32-r34-and-silvia/

Who is Toshi?

We have some awesome dynotuners that'll tune your car, in person, on actual dynometers, for really good prices...

Not sure if anyone would be keen on a 'mail order tune'?

Me personally, I'll stick to boostworx/willall

-D

Im looking at getting My ECU tuned by toshi for my R33 to improve power and driveability with my current mods and was wondering if anyone else was intersted to see if we could get a group discount?

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/298912-cheapest-mail-order-r33-ecu-remap-only-400-also-r32-r34-and-silvia/

Every car is different. You can use a tune from another car with similar mods as a starting point but then change it to tailor your car. The car he bases uour tune on may be in better or worse conditon, which means it wont work correctly in your car, etc.

Who is Toshi?

We have some awesome dynotuners that'll tune your car, in person, on actual dynometers, for really good prices...

Not sure if anyone would be keen on a 'mail order tune'?

Me personally, I'll stick to boostworx/willall

-D

+1 stick to a local tuner that you can go and see and talk to. That way you can ask them questions and they can do a touch up if something isnt quite right. They will also be able to tell you if your car isnt responding to the tune very well...unlike a mail order tune.

I think he want to cheaper tune .

Mail order tune is only $400.(R33 ecu tune)

Yes , real time tune is better than mail order but my mail order tune is much better than like a mins , Blitz etc ecu.

Because my tune data is for Australia fuel.

If I come to SA and real time tune (R33 ecu tune) from $600 R33 ecu exchange (min 3 people)

I think local tuner $1000-1200 plus Z32 ECU around $100-200.

local tuners fit nistune board and tune for around 6-800.

Nistune board is $242 plus install $60 total $302.

Z32 ecu need modified for R33 cost $60-80.

Z32 ECU $100-200.

So just ecu $462-582.

How much is dyno tune?

Is SA very cheap?

In Sydney around $150 /hour.(around 3-4 hours)

spot on Dion. When I was calling around getting quotes, I got told around the $1K mark roughly. Just go a power fc or nistune :P more headroom for when you want to mod the f**k out of your car :D

I think he do not want to spend over $1000 for ecu.

Im using nistune product (Im nistune dealer) but some customer do not want to spend over $1000 for ecu.

So Im doing chip tune and nistune both.

Chip tune and nistune is exactly same performance.

i was going off rb20 ecu nistuned. i paid 700 from boostworx.

i would still pay 1k and have a remappable ecu, instead of 600 chips each time that are close to a proper tune (maybe)

and yes, poor man pays twice

I paid a lot less for the above and even had a new o2 sensor my was shagged

Classic chassis - ashley hook me up , but need a metal cat and injectors

And cam gear tweek before a decent run in tune , right now its a base tune only , the car

Was amazing compared to the stock nissan tune

Actually drivable torque monster 343nm to 503nm jump from base ecu

On low nissan boost and high flow cat failing at 6400 rpm still had 1000 rpm to go and making power still with rock solid boost from 3 k

I thought yours was tuned local? Boost work, or speed lab.

Does toshi dyno tune or road tune the car?

he does both, road tune then takes is to the dyno to check power and tweak it a bit if need be

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update: I got the magnet out. I bought 3 different flexible magnetic reach tools, but none of them worked. The magnet on the tip was all less than 2lbs of force, so i had to buy a special cylindrical magnet that had a pull force of 9lbs.  The magnet finally came in the mail yesterday, so i got under the car to get to work. The super strong magnet isn't that long, so i only have about 1 finger pinch lengths to hold it. I was so scared when i was going in the hole, that the 9lb magnet would just fly away inside the oil pan never to be seen again, but i had my butt cheeks clenched and finger gripped on that thing so tight, i managed to get it to suck the other magnet out.  It was a victory for me last night.         
    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
×
×
  • Create New...