Jump to content
SAU Community

Will A Rb25Gtt Still Run With No Turbo..?


Recommended Posts

Iv been thinking about buying another r34 but get a gt-t model. problem is im on me p's still. is it possible to take the turb off and get a new exhaust header built. Would you have to change the ecu.? if so are the wiring looms the same in gt and gt-t models.?

other thought was to buy and drop a n/a motor in the gt-t body and drive that untill im off me p's. then in the mean time i have the gt-t motor to play with. can rebuild it and when im on my opens i can drop it back it.

will the wiring harness be the same though.?

i imagine this would of been answered before.

thanks

mat

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Iv been thinking about buying another r34 but get a gt-t model. problem is im on me p's still. is it possible to take the turb off and get a new exhaust header built. Would you have to change the ecu.? if so are the wiring looms the same in gt and gt-t models.?

other thought was to buy and drop a n/a motor in the gt-t body and drive that untill im off me p's. then in the mean time i have the gt-t motor to play with. can rebuild it and when im on my opens i can drop it back it.

will the wiring harness be the same though.?

i imagine this would of been answered before.

thanks

mat

it has been answered before....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

car will still be illegal to drive on your p's. Will still be registered as a turbo vehicle and the cop is not going to care if you 'took the turbo out'

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If I were you, I will puchase a normal car till I'm off my p's. Just get whatever you want after your probation.

There is absolutely no point in telling him this.

OP is gonna OP.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

car will still be illegal to drive on your p's. Will still be registered as a turbo vehicle and the cop is not going to care if you 'took the turbo out'

oh right.. i didnt know this just thought if it had no turb it would be ok haha. definitely no way around it then, gotta wait..

cheers for the info guys.. and yes im new and im still figuring out how to drive this webpage

Link to comment
Share on other sites

you got me on a good day, so i won't just post things like the above people (normally i would). i'll explain to you why it is a bad idea to pull the turbo off. turbo engines run lower compression than the non turbo versions. this is to account for the extra air being forced in by the turbo. this means that if you pull the turbo off a turbo motor it will make less power than the non turbo version. so what you would end up with is a car making roughly the same power as a hyundai excel (and i'm not joking) but weighs about 300kg more.

as for dropping a natro motor in its place, well as people have said, the car is still registered as a turbo, so no dice. plus the fact that it's a waste of time and money.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

thanks mad082.. i can see why.. and i didnt think it would ever work but my dad keeps saying it would and i keep telling him why it wont so i asked :D. i also told him it would be much more fuel Hungary due to the less compression in the combustor.

as people have said i dont think i will wast my time.

though.. if the motor was changed to n/a and it had an engineers cert and vic roads had it changed, legally wouldnt this now be a n/a as the n/a motor is now registered to the car.?

the reason im asking is because i wanna get another 34 as my 34 has all the sat nav sh*t and pop up screen in the dash. i want a double din unit in there and the dash to be flat at the top. There is no reason i cant change it i just cant be bothered doing it and cant get a hold of the parts.. so i want to get a 34 that dont have the sat nav option and has the double din and all :D..MY RADIO DONT EVEN WORK.. its the worst

might just try hang out the 12 months and get the tt....awwww

thanks again guys

Edited by madmatsmadhouse
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Talking from personal experience.

It will still run, and will run like sh*t.

Also important to note that the RTA has gotten smarter over the years and will still see the car as a turbo car as they go off the chassis, regardless whether the turbo is still in there or not.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Talking from personal experience.

It will still run, and will run like sh*t.

Also important to note that the RTA has gotten smarter over the years and will still see the car as a turbo car as they go off the chassis, regardless whether the turbo is still in there or not.

so i should do it the other way and wack the turbo in my n/a :D haha

i would see the motor swaps as a project as 1 would of been something to work on.

and changing the stereo isnt the hard bit its finding the shrouds from other cars thats hard to get

Link to comment
Share on other sites

pretty sure even going through all the work of changing the motor and getting an engineers cert would still be illegal for other reasons than posted above. i may be wrong, but i have a feeling that replacing the engine with a different one that the car originally came with is classed as an engine mod, which P platers aren't allowed to do

just to clarify what i mean by "different one to what the car came with", replacing a rb25de with another rb25de from the same model car is ok, replacing a rb20de in a r32 with a rb25de from an r33 isn't allowed

Link to comment
Share on other sites

haha :D. is there something in a gtr where you can switch from rwd to awd..? iv seen a thing in a mag once where a 32gtr could do it i think..

i like the rwd :D iv been driving a tx3 turbo awd for the past 2 years. thing grips like rails but just aint as fun. i like the r34

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There are a few variables here, some are relevant but not critical (IMHO) to help answer your question. The two major things: 1) Ignoring anything to do with forced induction - all engines have their own natural torque curve, and it will ALWAYS roll over higher in the rpm.  There is a fixed relationship between power and torque.  When dealing with kw and nm, the relationship between them is roughly: kw = (rpm * nm) / 9549 nm = (kw / rpm) * 9549 The peak torque of an engine (without boost) will typically climb until somewhere nearish the middle of it's operating rev range, give or take a bit - then start dropping again.   The nearer the minimum and maximum rpm of the engine the steeper that drop off tends to be. 2) Boost simply increases the density of the air going into the engine, which inflates the torque at that point.  The ramp up in the torque curve you see on a turbo engine is due to the boost rising, but it's essentially just multiplying the torque you'd see if it was naturally aspirated.  The roll over you see at the end will typically be what would have always happened with the engine, whether it was naturally aspirated or turbocharged.   If the torque never started dropping then power would climb infinitely. The cool thing about this is you absolutely can tune the power delivery to suit the needs of the owner and/or the limitations of the car, and I regularly do this.    With modern turbos we've got to the point where a setup that someone may run well over 20psi of boost with could actually reach target boost well under 4000rpm if the tuner/owner WANTED to - and a lot of people seem to do this when there is actually no realistic benefit, generally it just adds a massive amount of strain to the engine and drivetrain and often actually makes the car harder to drive. As a general rule I tend to tune the boost curves for cars I tune to reach a "useful" torque level through the rev range and will often end up with a curve that ramps hard to a point, then creeps for the rest of the rev range - not to make the boost curve "soft" as such, but more to make sure its neither laggy nor pointlessly violent in it's delivery.   There have been cars I've tuned to be almost like a centrifugal supercharger (or naturally-aspirated-ish) where they actually only hit like 8psi of boost before opening the gate, then ramp up the next 10psi over the rev range... if the car is "loose enough" to drive. On the flip side I've tuned a car that had stock cams and the engine's natural torque curve fell over HARD in the higher rpm and resulted in a slightly awkward power curve to work with, in that case I actually started ramping up boost to boost torque in a way to offset the engines "NA" torque drop off... at peak rpm actually running a good 5psi+ more boost that what the "flat curve" would have defined.  This gave the owner an extra 500rpm or so of useable rev range, and had a fairly solid impact on times he was running at motorsport events due to being able to hold gears a bit longer and also falling into a more useful part of the rev range in the following gears. Here's an example of an RB in a GTSt I've done the "softened" boost curve to not pointlessly ramp straight to the max boost target early in the rpm, but still made sure it builds useful boost.  If you went in the car you'd not guess at all that the boost curve was doing anything "weird", it feels like it spools immediately and accelerates relentlessly (traction dependent) and holds to max rpm.   I don't know if you'd guess what the boost curve was doing by driving the car, or even looking at the dyno plot... but imho it suits the combination.  
    • therefore on the first examples, as we see, changing cams (graph 2) influences the quantity of torque at high revs its OK for me. so a tuner can act on the wastegate via the boost controller to increase the boost at high revs? on the last example, the boost does not decrease ok, but the torque does. this can come from cams etc etc ok. but on the other curves the boost is not constant, it increases, this is what I find strange to my mind. even more so if it comes from the relief valve. sorry I'm very new don't blame me. in my mind I couldn't imagine how the boost could be higher after the spool  
    • right, but fundamentally, for a given mechanical setup, you are either using all the torque (and therefore power) it will give, or you are choosing to run it less efficiently. Many tuners will have a practice of identifying peak available torque and then winding it back a couple of % for safety, but unless you are working around a very specific issue like a weak gearbox, there is nothing to be gained by making 20 or 30% less than the engine can
    • You can manipulate the torque delivery by ramping in boost gently, then throwing it all in after peak torque to keep the torque flat. It's nothing magical.
    • Tuning the wastegate to do it. That is all. Most people want the boost to not fall off like the most recent example. Those also look like dyno runs with an Auto/Torque converter setup, which does fun things to the graph. The boost tapers down like that because the turbo cannot supply the same amount of air at 7000rpm that it can at 3000 in terms of PSI. That, or the tuner has decided that it tapering off like that is what someone chose to do. IF you have a wastegate that can't bleed enough air to slow the turbine, and IF that turbo can flow enough air to feed the engine at high RPM, you get 'boost creep' which is a rise of boost pressure beyond what you are capable of controlling and/or want. None of these show symptoms of that, but if you had a run that was 20psi at 3000rpm, and 27psi at 7000rpm, it could be an example of that. Or simply that the person wanted boost later for their own reasons... The dyno graphs don't always show the full context.
×
×
  • Create New...