Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

when im driving sometimes, no matter what gear im in, the turbo will spool but the engine wont go anywhere, then seconds later it will realise and continue like normal, i usually have to take my foot off the accelerator and put it back on for it to stop, so when im doing 50ks then go to 3rd, and acceletrate it wont go anywhere till i take my foot offf and put it back on.

any ideas?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/399470-a-flat-spot-in-r33-turbo/
Share on other sites

I was thinking it can't be that because it happens after I chuck it in gear and it happens if I just drive in the same gear and not change it...

These words still make it sound like its clutch slip. Where is the friction point on the clutch? High up the top?

ive since discovered, **sometimes** when i put my foot on the clutch as im coming to a stop the car will act like its conking out (engine light comes on, hicas comes on, revs go to 0) then when i take my foot off, the lights go away and the engine goes back to how it was? is that a transmission problem?

ive since discovered, **sometimes** when i put my foot on the clutch as im coming to a stop the car will act like its conking out (engine light comes on, hicas comes on, revs go to 0) then when i take my foot off, the lights go away and the engine goes back to how it was? is that a transmission problem?

Atmo BOV?

Does that happen in neutral or only when in gear?

If only in gear then the clutch is buggered and its not disengaging correctly

Need some more info. If u keep it in gear with the clutch in does it try and stall or only when u are slowing?

89cal may be right about the bov but need more info

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I haven't....but a poorly made one would terrify me. Surely a good second hand one is the go, as they don't work hard and no-one wants to keep one after they are finished with it A big consideration would be the weight of the shell you are putting on it....is it a fully dressed chassis or just the body
    • Not stock. All remade. Mostly looks stock because the pipes run to and from the standard holes in the inner guard to get to the return flow FMIC. I'm not sure which question you're trying to ask, because it seems like "stock position" vs "stock position".
    • Hey, it's a GT-R, it's just as significant a moment as mine😁 It's not ideal when things are uncertain; I'm the type of person that always has a set plan for things in life so being unsure of this plan puts me in a weird place mentally.
    • Hows your intake piping? Are you still running stock? Having in the stock AFM position would mean, if the BOV was shut/venting out, it'd create the almost stalling kind of effect right // "the rich pulse behaviour" due to MAF thinking air is flowing ? But this would be better than having the bov in the stock position + MAF on/just before cross over piping right?
    • Essentially, yes. Although I wouldn't put the AFM on the crossover pipe. I'd want to put it into what amounts to the correct size tube, which is more easily done in the intercooler pipework. I bought a mount tube for card style AFM that replaces the stock AFM - although being a cheap AliExpress knockoff, it had no flange and I had to make and weld my own. But it is the same length and diameter as the stock RB AFM, goes on my airbox, etc etc. I don't have a sick enough rig to warrant anything different, and the swap will take 5 minutes (when I finally get around to it and the injectors & the dyno tune).
×
×
  • Create New...