Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I wish people would put up their budget on how much they're willing to spend, would make it so much easier to recommend an oil. Any $ figures I put in ()'s are approximations.

Good (Group 3 semi-synths): Motul 4100 Turbolight ($50), Gulf Western Syn-X 3000 ($35), Royal Purple ($50)

Better (Group 4 PAO full synths): Motul 8100 X-Cess/X-Max ($70), GW Syn-X 6000 ($60), Royal Purple XPR ($120), Mobil 1 0w40 ($70)

Best (Group 5 Ester full synths): Motul 300V Chrono ($150), Redline ($120)

I wish people would put up their budget on how much they're willing to spend, would make it so much easier to recommend an oil. Any $ figures I put in ()'s are approximations.

Good (Group 3 semi-synths): Motul 4100 Turbolight ($50), Gulf Western Syn-X 3000 ($35), Royal Purple ($50)

Better (Group 4 PAO full synths): Motul 8100 X-Cess/X-Max ($70), GW Syn-X 6000 ($60), Royal Purple XPR ($120), Mobil 1 0w40 ($70)

Best (Group 5 Ester full synths): Motul 300V Chrono ($150), Redline ($120)

My apologies I forgot to put how much I was willing to spend basically it doesn't worry me I want what's best for the engine Redline or Motul 300V Chrono seem like the best sort of option am I correct ? :)

As long as the oil is changed at 5,000km or every 6 months (whatever comes first) anything I listed or others have listed are perfectly fine. Motul 300V and Redline are the best and you said you wanted the best (comes at a big price).

Personally anything I listed in the good or better category I would use on my GTR when doing street driving. Better or Best I would use at the track, it's overkill for a street driven car.

As far as my quick google check, HPR is a full synthetic by marketing (containing the minimum percent of mixed PAO synthetic), not a true Group IV oil. Which means it belongs in amongst the Group III oils, but the 10 Tenths range is a true synthetic (mix of PAO and esters )

Nulon Full synthetic is another example, not a true group IV synthetic, but it meets the minimum percent of synthetic stock to be marketed as such.

the turbolight or hpr is more than enough, I use them for my track car. I dont see the point of 150 for oil on street car.

Exactly

OP needs to say what the car is mainly going to be used for. If its just around town nothing wrong with motul turbolight. I use 8100 x-cess which is pretty good

the turbolight or hpr is more than enough, I use them for my track car. I dont see the point of 150 for oil on street car.

my two reccomendations exactly... unless the motor is making big power and is tracked then there is no point spending more coin. as it's just a waste.

I would add to this castrol edge 10w60 though if the car is going to be spending long periods on the limiter

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Interesting, I've heard complete opposite on my end. Bit of a lottery I guess.
    • Getting Dangerously close to being ready to go back in the car. Rockers in with clearance castings now (and a quick check with the USA for the torque settings for the larger custom bolts) Covers and ported FAST Manifold sitting on there. Not fully tightened down as there's some clearancing required for the water pump with the earlier LS1 water pump styles. Example of the clearancing needing to be done: The body has to be ground a little but I'm struggling finding an actual piece of it. The later variant of water pump resolves the issue as the manifold was designed around it. It only came on the VZ LS1 in Australia, it got a different pulley for Gen4 motors. (it also costs $450... vs... $0).
    • https://files.fm/f/5atwkuvcjd
    • Doing some height adjustment on front suspension on a v35 and noticed this. The passenger side looks correct. So wondering what's happened to the drivers side?
    • Oh...I have the electric mirrors as well iirc ...they're in the same state as just about every other R31 door mirrors, with the 3 plastic screw towers broken/cracked in the plastic molding. All the interior is 'dry', so the mirror switches etc likely all work fine. Some pics below of the trimmer pieces ~ looks to me like previous owner, painted chrome finished trims with black paint ...ergo, the chrome underneath is likely a-ok... ...starts to look yukky posting stuff like this, how much did it cost in fuel on your last sortie up this way?...me just thinking aloud, borrow someone else's 4cyl to cut costs, come do your own pick'n'pull like before to save me some bother...hehe.. but whatever, I'll just earmark bits I know you want, because the way this is all panning out, I'll be able to retire the R31 from daily duty at long last, replacing it with a Subaru wagon I'm lining up in the wings...ergo, my attitude towards the donor pinny shell is starting to wane a bit, and I'm more than happy to help you out there... Like you say though, no rush...and I'll guarantee we won't be moving too far from this locale at any rate 😎
×
×
  • Create New...