Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

FACTORY OEM R34 GTT RB25DET BLOW OFF VALVE COMPLETE WITH THE ALLOY CROSSOVER PIPE

Removed from a 95,000km R34 GTT, In Excellent working condition.

Perfect for clearing those defects / epa or great for returning your car back to stock .

I have been told you can use it on a R33 Gtst also as they are the same.

What you see in the photo below is what you get.

Asking $100 ono . Pick up Taylorslakes - Melbourne or can post around Australia for an extra $15.

Pm Call or txt on 0422756270. cheers.

img0152ixrn.jpg

img0148vy.jpg

img0161ir.jpg

Edited by G4orce
  • 5 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Hardly needs another bump, but just wanted to point out that they don't suit R33. The Neo throttle body is very different and the Xover pipe is shorter.

thanks for letting me know,

Edited by G4orce
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know right. It baffled me. There's no way when the engine is off, key is in ignition, (coils are dissconnected aswell), also my sound system was dissconnected (I don't run any audio capacitors), battery reads 12.2v and with the 10amp fuse blown I was measuring 24 to 30v. The reading would move a bit from 30v to 24v which was weird. I took a pic of the multi meter reading 🤣: (This is a brand new single channel digital oscilloscope that also has a multi meter mode).   Before when the fuse was blown, I had one lead on the 12v supply (green/white wires) of that brown relay and the other lead on the negative battery terminal. When I turned the key on ignition (engine off), it would read 30v. Then when I removed that relay from it's plug and tried putting ignition on again, it would read 12v, but I think it's because it can't turn on the ecu now that I removed it. I asked Chatgpt and this is what it had to say:   Not sure if those theories would be possible but, any auto sparkies here? welcome to confirm. 🤷‍♂️  No idea, but if it happens again, atleast I know what type of issue it is, unlike last few months where I didn't know what was causing all my issues and I was just taking stabs in the dark to figure out what type of problem it was. If it does happen again I'm going to investigate futher and trace back the source even more and inspect more circuits. I drove it to work this morning and the car drove and boosted fine. Yeah I was thinking the same, so I've imported my back up saved map (which is the map that I saved when it got done tuning) back onto my haltech with the base fuel pressure set to 43.5psi.
    • Yeh nice, if your in melbourne could you recommend any exhaust shops in the east that do a good job?
    • Sorry yes, this is what im after Also, that jpjdm site appears to be offline
    • @Duncan Random side note, did the cops give you the driver/owners details of the taxi and then did Shannons give you a refund of the excess once you supplied those details?
    • Yeah to be clear I'm not naive, I'm sure all insurance companies are a bunch of arseholes who pay people bonusses based on the value of genuine claims they avoid....I just don't want to go back to one that has personally f**ked me multiple times in the past  
×
×
  • Create New...