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Title: [VIC] 1990 Nissan Pulsar GTiR Black, not running, no RWC - $3000 ono

Item: 1990 Nissan Pulsar GTiR

Details:

Car hasnt been started for 2 years, has been garaged entire time.

To get it running again it requires replacement steering rack and clutch master cylinder.

Driveshaft boots need replacing(new ones included)

Fairly standard GTiR apart from very low coilovers and 2.5" straight through exhaust.

Body and Paint is in Poor condition.

To get it RWC again, would require a lot of work.

Great for parts or race car.

Selling as is, will not part out.

Location: Footscray

Price: $3000 neg

Contact: [email protected]

Images: Current photos coming.

Edited by bazzatron
  • 3 weeks later...

Updated:

Total List of Parts:

1x 1990 Gtir (Not running of course)

2 sets of wheels/tyres - 15" rims have Bridgestone Potenza RE001, that only drove to Melb>Jindabyne and back, 14" stock rims and tyres.

2 sets of suspension - GForce Coilovers(very low, very stiff), Standard Struts(shagged) with SuperLow springs(struts maybe used to gain RWC(maybe).

Standard catback exhaust and muffler - brings exhaust noise bang on 90dB

Standard Intercooler

2x Turbos - T28 fitted to the car, T25 Turbo(from silvia, needs reconditioning, oil seals went)

AM Performance Split Dump pipe - Fitted to car

External Oil cooler - Fitted to car in place of standard intercooler

2x Steering Racks - Current one needs replacing, 2nd hand one in good nick ready to go in.

Brand new Drive shaft boots - need to be fitted

Brand new Steering Rack boots - need to be fitted

Standard Radiator and radiator fans - Car has aftermarket Radiator thermo fans and N15 Pulsar Radiator fitted.

Intake manifold not fitted to car, all parts in boxes ready to go with vehicle.

OMP front strut brace - not fitted

Generic Oil Catch can - not fitted

Brand new Alternator belt - never fitted

New spark plugs - never fitted(may have fitted them, not sure right now)

Many more spares, but cant remember them all now.

***NOT INCLUDED IN SALE***

Laguna Splitter

License Plates

Stereo Equipment thats in the car(nothing special but I'm keeping it)

post-52574-0-01155400-1337668410_thumb.jpg

post-52574-0-23845500-1337668414_thumb.jpg

post-52574-0-48423800-1337668420_thumb.jpg

post-52574-0-70594500-1337668425_thumb.jpg

post-52574-0-04937700-1337668429_thumb.jpg

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  • Latest Posts

    • Clutch done also about a year ago got a DCS HD Single Plate. Basically done everything but touch the engine 🤣 But will definitely get a fuel pump and ECU, then start saving 🫡
    • Fuel pump and clutch and ecu that’ll get you to about 230 or so kw, after that the sky’s the limit and the budget blows out faster then you can blink 
    • Should add all mods on the car are done in my ownership. The car was a 1 owner in Japan and I'm first owner in Aus.
    • Thanks GTSBoy. Did BC's so not Japanese coilovers. I've already done all the other points you mentioned besides the seat, I like the factory seats and want to keep original look. Done all the fluids and comp tests etc and all consistent and clean. Well and truly used to the power and car as I've been driving it for a few years as it is now. Contemplating next steps mainly. Preference to remain twins too. @Murray_Calavera Paying for labour.
    • Hmm. I don't think it is possible. As soon as you start, you will be on the hook for all the money. $5-10k is enough to make it fragile. Here's the list of things you need to do to make it nice, and driveable. If Japanese coilovers, get them measured and tested, then decide if you're keeping them or replacing them. If low rate springs, then consider big ARBs. If high rate springs, then probably leave stock ARBs. Either way, ad decent end links. Replace and/or upgrade all suspension bushes. That's LCAs front and rear, UCAs & traction arms at rear, caster rods at front. I highly recommend GKTech FUCAs, although the step to spherical joints is a step too far for some people. Rebuild brakes front and rear. This means making sure the calipers are healthy, discs are up to thickness, hoses are replaced with braided. Add good pads and fluid. Investigate wheel bearings all the way around, tie rod ends all the way around, upright bearings at the front, balljoints everywhere. Any of these that are still original are likely to be a bit wibbly nowadays. Bride or Recaro driver's seat, with fairly deep sides. Nice tyres. Street performance wheel alignment. Or track focused, if you're not going to use it on the road. Fluids everywhere if not known to be fresh. Now, learn to drive the car as hard as it will go, before trying to add any power. Save up big $$. $5k is the minimum cost for putting a decent ECU into it. A big single, with manifold, new exhaust, injectors, fuel system upgrade, ignition upgrade, triggering upgrade, etc, is >>$10k. None of that (except the ECU) is a good idea on an old RB. You really should put head studs in it, investigate engine health (compression and leak down, real oil pressure at revs, coolant condition, etc) before even considering adding power. There's nothing sadder than the "I added boost then it shat the bed" thread.
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