Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys To cut the story short, I got told the R32 GTR I bought had Nismo turbo's, so had some work done thinking they were steel wheel turbo's.

Had a bit of work done at the shop.. Power FC, boost controller, cam gears, injectors, pump, 302 awkw @ 19psi. 2 weeks later.. Big Bang under boost... white smoke etc... and I found out they ended up being the stock r32 gtr ceramic ones. :\ Not happy as you can imagine...

Just had some brand new 2860 -5's Garrett's fitted up over the last week $, and was wondering does it need to be completely re-mapped again? or just a quick re-map on the dyno. Or Is it safe to even drive or give it some stick? Appreciate your advice. Cheers

Edited by 91BNR32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/399555-does-new-turbos-re-tune/
Share on other sites

Of course, as the amount of air ingested will change drastically across the rev range not to mention there would be less exhaust restriction to dial in more timing.

In saying that, safe to drive provided you don't hit +ve manifold pressure.

.7 bar is the lowest out of the 4 boost settings on the controller that the tuners set up. Sounds like I'll just put it on that and baby it back to them.

Still have standard AFMs so prob make still around the 300ish. But if I get some z32/nismos I've read up these -5s can do 340+ awkw? 19-20psi would be the most I'd run 

 

^^^On a built engine, with all the rest of the car up to scratch yes, if they're bolted onto an otherwise pretty stock GTR (so excluding exhaust, ecu, pod filters) they'll give a crap result compared to the guys with all the right parts and the same turbos :)

^^^On a built engine, with all the rest of the car up to scratch yes, if they're bolted onto an otherwise pretty stock GTR (so excluding exhaust, ecu, pod filters) they'll give a crap result compared to the guys with all the right parts and the same turbos :)

Agreed. For some reason everyone latelythinks -5's will give them 380 + kw on a stockish 2.6L. Have a look through the dyno results thread, there are very few that have done this. Most are around 350 and under, and thats with cams etc

On topic though yes you will need a tune

yea I thought about the -9's for that little more response, but selling the car soon, and the workshop already had these on the shelf. Im sure I will still be happy with the -5's as it will be a improvement over the stock ceramics. Still can't believe I ran 20psi through them.. was lucky they only let go and not back through the motor..

Motor was fully rebuilt 3000km ago. Built to N1 spec, N1 pistons, oil pump, etc etc. so by all means no fully forged motor.. Still okay for 20psi though.

As much as i dont want to say this u cant be certain no ceramic dust has gone back through the motor but u may be lucky.

Xcalaba has run big boost on stock ceramic turbo's for a long time. No one is sure how- i think he is using witch magic :P

As much as i dont want to say this u cant be certain no ceramic dust has gone back through the motor but u may be lucky. Xcalaba has run big boost on stock ceramic turbo's for a long time. No one is sure how- i think he is using witch magic :P

I hope im lucky.. thats the last thing I need... :( The car still idled and drove completely fine when not putting it under boost after it let go.

Car Has no Cat on it, and I was giving it boot when it went bang. So im hoping it just blew out the back. (the rear turbo exhaust wheel went.) For piece of mind I will do a compression test to just be sure.

Edited by 91BNR32

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, if it wasn't a GTR I'd say that killing an RB is a perfect opportunity to put in a proper engine. In your case, proximity to Brabus and AMG V12s would be a no brainer for any RWD Skyline engine death event. In my case, because my car is my daily, anything that I do wrong that means I have to do it again is both an absolute pain in the arse (simply having to do it again), and also a doubling of the pain associated with having the car off the road to work on it. I would class a botched head gasket install as not being "engine death causing". More a case of "f**k it's still leaking!"
    • Yeah, this is more stuff like transmission/clutch R&R. Intake manifold R&R. It's not super complicated, but each step matters and you need to be careful and patient. I have heard stories for example of people not figuring out the super coppermix twin plate orientation and getting it wrong on assembly. Removing a cylinder head and putting it back in once it's machined isn't that hard, following torque sequence to install some cams isn't that hard either, but somehow I've seen a lot go wrong between here and there. Scraping off all gasket material isn't that hard either, but I've seen shops ruin heads by using a roloc disk that was too aggressive.
    • There is some shops in Germany that have quite a bit of experience with JDM performance 4-wheelers. I think if it actually comes down to it I'd let one of them do the head gasket. Killing an RB26 is too expensive a risk just to save some money by doing it yourself.
    • There are certain tasks, like replacing head gaskets, where it is very much best to already know what you are doing, and if you are not already an expert, then the next best thing is to have an expert around to help it get done. Little annoying checks and steps that are easy to forget or not interpret the results of properly, etc etc. It is hard to convey that to someone as a lesson prior to taking on a job, because there can be a whole list of "if you see this then it means that", or "if this is what you find then you will need to do these other 4 steps first". All the little bits of knowledge around sealant choice (ie, sealant at all? or no sealant? sealant only in certain parts of the gasket? sealant for this type of gasket but not that type of gasket? etc etc) cleanliness checks and methods, surface straightness and finish checks and methods, etc etc, all combine to mean that people who have done many of the same type of job will struggle less to get a good result than someone who hasn't done it before. I've been around this stuff since forever. But I will still consult with my expert(s) before taking on the big stuff with higher risk profile.
    • Well if I end up having to do the head gasket I will certainly find the necessary tools and instructions before beginning... Let's hope it won't come around.   Definitely. Depends on the job but I think "if you want it done right, do it yourself" applies almost every time
×
×
  • Create New...