Built 26, Best Single/mani Combo For Around 370Kws ?

[GTScotT]

John I guarantee the well thought out budget car will always make you smile while the no expense spared one will continue to break your heart.

Its ALWAYS like that. Thats why I appreciate cars like the R33, where they are a well sought package needing little more than minor upgrades to be a good well rounded car.

Anyway, this will be an interesting thread over time Im sure!

[bri73y]

OK, here's a curve ball for you all.

I've just been offered a built 4.0l engine out of a FG Typhoon. It's running 10:1 compression and has a whole heap of Atomic gear through it.

Comes with a T5z gearbox as well.

Motor and box are cheaper than the RB I was building..........

Any thoughts ?? Anyone had experience on this side of the fence ??

[toffy]

I have a little , good strong motor , t5z= 6 speed? (T56? ) . Problem will be the weight as always , they are a wide motor too . 10.5:1 compression sounds rather high too?

[GTScotT]

There is no way I would pass up the chance to run that in a car, IF it fit.

Consider that 370kw is going to be instantaneous with that motor, the power threshold for a car as drivable as what you were planning will be a lot higher.

Put simply, if I wanted a 300kw setup I would probably stick to an RB25, if I wanted 400kw I would go to a 3L 6. If I wanted 500kw I would then look at something like the Barra. Reason why is keeping the car drivable. Consider that the big bad barra is going to have an undrivable character if running a fully tuned HTA 35R as aposed to a 3L at the same tune level.

I have however been toying with the concept of a 3788 or 86HTA barra myself, but I would put that in a heavier 80 series supra to keep it on the road

[TiTAN]

boostworx have put a barra in a skyline, it was an r33 though so more bonnet height as they are a BIG engine.

the exhaust being on the other side of the engine will cause issues if you have to pass it back to the passenger side, being race only you could just run it out the side by Modding the chassis rail to give extra clearance.

[Roy]

Would be pretty hard to beat from a performance perspective. You would have to go for a pretty lazy final drive to actually make forward progress with the wave of torque the thing will make...whish is no bad thing, If its about fun, a rev, geared car always feels more entertaining then something that is lazy and tractable.

But fact is if its cheaper then you have to do it...as ultimately will result in faster car once you have sorted suspension, tyre and gearing. Does a Barra engine weigh much different to an RB?

[N1GTR]

The engine and box may be cheap and sticking to your budget, but what about actually fitting it to the car and making it work - that wont be as cheap as existing RB mounts

[Roy]

I wouldnt expect that to be a big problem in light of the fact that people put IJZ in Skylines. Bigger cost is ECU and wiring changes etc. But, again Imagine there is a load of XR6 wrecks around to salvage bits from

[GTScotT]

I vote Barra R34 thread > Built 26 370kw thread.

[Risking]

Sounds like you need a sponsor to pay for the build brighty......

[bri73y]

Will be interesting to see what you go with, and the results - have you made a decision?

Threads like this are a bit tricky, because a lot of these turbos haven't been tried on RBs and I have no idea which turbo you are going to be using or what boost level you're actually going to target etc etc etc. So many variables, so "results may vary". I like where you're heading with it though, and keeping an eye out on how it all turns out. Did FullRace come back with a suggestion?

No decision as yet, however I'll know which way I'm going with the motor by this time tomorrow.

Full Race - No not as yet, it may not matter what they recommend soon....

I know what you mean about graphs and the difference between how they look and how they perform. I've got a graph here somewhere from when I upgraded from -7's to -5's. The -7's win with area under the curve and response on the graph, but in real life when doing tarmac rallies, motokhana's and circuit work the -5's killed them. You wouldn't think that by just going off the graphs as the -5's only get infront at the very top of the dyno graph where the lines crossover.

[bri73y]

Sounds like you need a sponsor to pay for the build brighty......

Well I already have a donor of sorts now don't I..........

I even know someone who could possibly do a build thread from start to finish to show off some of their skills..

That is ofcourse if we go Barra!!

[Bsa]

I recon the 4 over the 26 any day makes power easier and more of it. Don't have to rev it as hard either good set of diff ratios and susspention it would eat everything

[Risking]

Hahahaha donor.....

Just rumage through the piles of parts in the workshop and your sure to find some interesting stuff. Half the good stuff I've forgetten is even there.

I'm looking for someone with some talent, email me his details tomorrow. Need another employee.

Well I already have a donor of sorts now don't I..........

I even know someone who could possibly do a build thread from start to finish to show off some of their skills..

That is ofcourse if we go Barra!!

[Lithium]

I know what you mean about graphs and the difference between how they look and how they perform. I've got a graph here somewhere from when I upgraded from -7's to -5's. The -7's win with area under the curve and response on the graph, but in real life when doing tarmac rallies, motokhana's and circuit work the -5's killed them. You wouldn't think that by just going off the graphs as the -5's only get infront at the very top of the dyno graph where the lines crossover.

Thats really interesting, how much of the rev range do the -5s hold ahead? Is there any chance you were revving the car higher when using the -5s? I've seen a bit of both - to be fair, dynos really can be very misleading... I mentioned earlier in the thread about a case where we compared two cars with equivalent spool, but one had 20kw more (310kw .63 GT35R versus 290kw .82 GT30R) where the car with the bigger turbo had virtually no point where it was lacking in power, yet the GT30R gave the quicker car.

I wouldn't want to call it on these combinations, I'm pretty confident the PT5857 would be laggier - though in saying that, I know GT3582Rs work quite nicely on RB26s and the PT5857 SHOULD be less laggy, so realistically it would probably be one of the better options. Just bare in mind that is assuming you go for a ball bearing one.

[SimonR32]

Thread dig!

Need a T4 divided housing turbo to make 400rwkw or slightly more on a RB26 with drop in 9.1mm cams on E85, trying to keep boost under control 20-22psi

I have some ideas but am keen to hear what all the turbo buffs opinions are?

[scotty nm35]

My suggestion is a GTX35 with a smaller split pulse rear, not sure it will quite make it at that boost. If you definitely want to crack 400 at 20psi you may need a larger frame like GT37/40

Why keep the boost so low?

Given up on the Kando?

[SimonR32]

My suggestion is a GTX35 with a smaller split pulse rear, not sure it will quite make it at that boost. If you definitely want to crack 400 at 20psi you may need a larger frame like GT37/40

Why keep the boost so low?

Given up on the Kando?

22psi isn't that low! But I want to keep as reliable as possible.

Kando is on another car and great but I probably want an extra 50+ hp out of this and they only come on T3 flanges

[scotty nm35]

On ethanol 22psi is low boost imo, as long as you have a modern compressor wheel that will cope with the higher pressures, without generating too much heat. Good cooling will still be required obviously. Is it to be a track car? Built engine?

The GIO Gibson 32 GTR was running over 40psi in race trim on stock looking old tech turbo's, reliably.

[bigmikespec]

Thread dig!

Need a T4 divided housing turbo to make 400rwkw or slightly more on a RB26 with drop in 9.1mm cams on E85, trying to keep boost under control 20-22psi

I have some ideas but am keen to hear what all the turbo buffs opinions are?

I need one too...

S300SX on RB26 with ported head, big cams, 1.00 A/R turbine housing divided... I want it equal length too.

Trying to get in touch with ETM but no luck so far, not filling me with confidence.