Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys,just got the power fc and all hooked up but was told to look for z32 in the settings but cant find anything but 5 settings.

R33 nomarl

power intake and some other 2 vg30 and something.

any help guys before i start it thanks..

i thought so but doesnt hurt to be 100%...started ok but after awhile sounded like it was runnin on 3 cylinders and cleared up after awhile and then switched off on idle then ran smooth then again after 5min. sometimes ok but would just be puffin black like crazyyy..just needed to drive to get to tuners so abit stuck at the moment on this..sounds like blocking up or something until u rev it abit hard to 3/4000rpm and it clears up..

any ideas just to get a 20km drive to tuner, dont wanna drive it and get stuck if its all ready doing that on just idle..

Edited by RamR33

did you reset the power fc (data init)?

I think when i put my z32 on it ran alright, but this is going back along time

If you havent done an Init all data then it might not work on the old tune that was on it

yea i tryed that yesterday and started to idle ok but then just started to just block up on idle and run real rough puffing black and started befor but like running on like removing 3 coil packs and now wont start at all...i set it to vg30 on air flow for the z32 but not sure it set there...how do u set it on for vg30? do u just click next on hand controller and takes u in to voltages ? how do u select vg30 and no its that one its chosen?

Edited by RamR33

found out why..spark plugs are stuffed black on the whole plug completly all over geeeez.....wat do i do to no stuff em up and run so much fuel till its ok to drive to mechanic....

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/833/785757.jpg/

Edited by RamR33

the plugs are farked every single one of them and cant even be cleaned thats how bad and i do have bigger injectors,040 fuel pump,greddy plenium,bigger turbo t3/t4,after market bov plumed back ect ect....

i do have new platnium plugs but not gonna stuff em up for to start it for 10 min and stuff expenssive plugs up..wat can i do any ideas??

Edited by RamR33

You need to set the new injectors in the hand controller as well, refer to paulR33's FAQ again for this, has the maths to do it.

Your car will be overfueling as it will think you have 370cc injectors so it is injecting at say 7% duty cycle at idle, where as (to exagerate the point) if you have 1000cc injectors it will still be thinking there stock injectors and still injecting 7% duty cycle at idle. Now you do the maths, 7% of 370 is alot less then 7% of 1000. So this is what has happened and you've fouled your plugs

If you set the injectors right and the AFM right (you just need to select Z32, dont need to touch the values for voltage), put some new plugs in it and limp it to the tuners (DO NOT BOOST) if you absoloutly must drive it there.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I mean the other day I had to walk someone through diagnosing why their timing belt was walking off the cam gears. At least one of the issues was a bent tensioner stud. Local mechanics have found runout on the CAS mechanism causing weird failures. I'm also no saint here I've documented some of the things I've had to learn the hard way. Something I discovered recently is that my CA emissions catalytic converters weren't even welded correctly to align the downpipe to the main cat and they tossed the support bracket that goes from the transfer case to the downpipe to support everything there. I spend a lot of time chasing down these decidedly unsexy problems and the net effect is it feels like I never actually get to the original objective (flex fuel, VCAM, oil control, cooling, etc).
    • At times with how you make everything sound, all I imagine Americans doing when they see a gtr is standing there looking at it and bashing it with a gun like how a caveman would with a club and hoping it fixes itself 
    • I think this is just a product of how the US market works for this stuff. Shops are expensive and there's no real way of knowing what kind of results you're going to get, people don't really have the institutional knowledge. I have heard too much at this point to really put faith in anybody "full service" except maybe DSport and they aren't really a full service kind of shop. If you go to the right place I have no doubt they'll get it right for you. Some locals have set it up right but the cost really is nuts and even now they're still fighting issues. And you know I'm a crazy person who thinks things like twin scroll, relatively short low-mount cast headers, PCV recirc to intake, recirculating BOV, right-sized for ~400 whp, MAF load, validating all of that to a standard comparable to OEM test programs, etc are relevant. For what it's worth, multiple local owners at this point have been stuck in a perpetual cycle of blowing a motor -> getting someone to rebuild it -> some missed detail causes the bearings to wipe and spin just outside of break-in mileage or drop valves or some other catastrophe -> cycle repeats. I usually only find out about this because I'm perpetually helping random friends with diagnosing car troubles, Skyline or otherwise. The single turbo stuff if I'm honest is mostly secondary, it just doesn't seem to achieve the numbers in the ~2000-3000 rpm region that I would expect given the results I've seen here or in Motive's videos. I don't really know what we're missing here in the US to be causing this. Lots of people like to emphasize the necessity of finishing the project first and foremost, but I'm not made of money and I can't afford to be trashing a 15k+ USD engine build with any regularity. Or spending my relatively limited garage time these days unable to triangulate problems because too much was changed all at once. Also, even if it isn't a catastrophic failure I would consider spending the cost of single turbo conversion with nothing to show for it to be pretty bad. 
    • The water pump is know to leak as well. So if the coolant is low checking that first as well as hoses. 
    • Reading your posts Josh, sometimes I feel like I've gone in a time machine back to the 90's when everyone was doe-eyed and figuring things out for the first time.  I've lost track of how many single turbo GTR's I've seen on track that haven't burnt down lol. Everything has been figured out a long time ago. These things are at the point now where its essentially turn-key to go single turbo. 
×
×
  • Create New...