Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Selling a brand new Python 574

Alarm can be intergrated with your smart phone for keyless starting, phone disarming/ arming, GPS traking, Do not need this anymore will sell it for a cheap price of $180 ono

Item Condition: Brand New

Product Features:

  • Responder LC3 SST 2-way LCD Pager Car Alarm with1-Mile Range and Remote Start
  • Priority user interface and icon map
  • Priority 5-button user interface
  • Remote can confirm commands with tones, vibration, text and icon display
  • Remote notifies of security intrusions with tones, vibration, text and icon display
  • Powerful lithium-ion rechargeable battery with mini-USB charging
  • Integrated text display
  • Tone, vibe and display notifications and confirmations
  • Car finder
  • Fail-Safe starter kill
  • Revenger soft-chirp six-tone neo siren
  • Onboard Stinger Double-Guard remote-adjustable shock sensor
  • Warn-Away features a low-volume, brief warning signal for potential threats
  • Silent Mode alarming and disarming
  • Keyless entry with optional progressive driver's unlocking and ignition-controlled locking
  • Trunk Release
  • Manual transmission mode

Product Convenience Features:

  • One mile range primary LCD SST remote
  • Slim 5-button SST 1-Way companion remote control
  • Priority 5-button user interface with easy 2-car operation
  • Control Center with integrated status LED and valet switch
  • Virtual Tach RPM sensing
  • D2D serial data interface for Xpresskit D2D serial data interface modules
  • XpressPort dock for Xpresskit docking serial date interface modules
  • Onboard Flex Relays for remote start and light flash
  • Advanced remote start functions: Timer Start, Smart Start, RunTime Reset, and more
  • Active Temp Check displays internal cabin temp while remote start engaged
  • SilentMode2 alerts of intrusions without vehicle siren or light activation
  • Inputs for doors, hood and trunk monitoring
  • Progressive door trigger
  • NPCincluded (patented Nuisance Prevention software)
  • Ports for optional tilt, glass break, cabin and proximity sensors
  • 3 additional auxiliary outputs
  • 1-year Sonic Electronix warranty

Thinking about selling my R32 as a rolling shell (no engine, gearbox or diff). It will however come with another RB20DET, gearbox and diff with the sale. Not very pretty because I've been using it for drifting, but R32's look so cool.

It does have on it:

- Adjustable castor rods

- HSD coilovers but one dampener needs a rebuild (bound feels like it's blown out).

- Has Potenza front struts because of the coilover problem

- DVD player and motorised touch scren (1 DINN)

- Project Mu front brake pads

- Bosch 040 intank pump with relay from battery

- 2.5 months rego

- Hicas lock bar

- GTR rear cradle (suspension knuckles)

It will also come with separate:

- Original RB20DET (I was running a RB25)

- RB20 gearbox

- VLSD

- Flywheel, HD clutch/pressure plate.

After $2500, I think I can wreck it down for the same price. If you're after parts let me know and I'll consider wrecking it down sooner if I have enough interest. I might even put a RB30 into it in the mean time.

EDIT: No pics of it at the moment, any that I do have I don't want to post :P.

Anyone have a cheap 18" 365 35 tyre I can buy as I have a delainated one and I need to replace. Would be super helpful as the other rear is still reasnoble and I dont want to switch to the ugliest 17's in the world.

Cheers,

James

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Gday, Due to not finding much up to date info on this topic I thought I'd make a thread to get peoples latest opinions/recommendations. Background info -  I've got a S1.5 R33 GTST as a fun project car, mainly for street use and occasional drag strip, apart from all the cosmetic things I'll be doing a full rebuild of the engine with forged internals. Since it'll be getting new cams (kelford) and springs to match I thought I might as well get new lifters and valves while I'm at it, the dash says 160k KMs but the engine seems pretty tired, compression measures about 130psi across all cylinders so I'd like to freshen everything up. This is where I'm tempted to just fork out the extra and go solid lifters while it's all apart, aiming for 400-450kw atw with a flex tune. Assuming all supporting mods (oiling, fuel and all bolt ons) with a lightly ported head and turbo to match (yet to make a decision possibly gtx3582r or similar from Hypergear) I've seen the Tomei kits with just the buckets getting around, Supertech sells most things - Supertech High Performance Cam Followers | Trusted Racing Cam Followers Questions -  Has anyone found the Hydraulic lifters to limit them at this power level? Is it usually found that you can just clean the stock lifters and find they work fine?  Does going solid lifters save any headaches/issues with hydraulic lifters in the future? Any recommendations on other things that will need to be replaced, I know I'll need to get the solid profile cams but can you use the same type of valves and springs/retainers and is it recommended to change the guides and stem seals?    Summary -  Basically looking for pros/cons and wanna know if I'll actually need the extra RPMs from solid lifters or it'll just be bragging rights to say it ReVs OvEr 8000 Cheers
    • Ha ha ha, this stuff they had was installing Toshiba PLCs that were made some time in the 1990s, and they were replacing GEM80 PLCs. To let those two talk (staged upgrade along a ~1.2km long building that was split into 4 sections), was a bunch of WinXP machines running Java gateways... There was no way to put something like ProfiSafe in... Most of the HMI machines were WinXP, with Java program, with a custom button board emulating a keyboard... About the only buttons in the operator stations that went direct to the PLCs was the eStop. There was some interesting design stuff in that place...
    • Stock bypass valves are good for plenty of boost.
    • Check for fuel flow out of the outlet end of the rail. Check for spark. Try to start with aerostart (or pressure can brake cleaner or similar solvent in a car) prayed in through TB. If you have fuel and you have spark and it will fire on substitute fuel, then seriously suspect that E85 sitting for ages in your fuel system has destroyed something and put it in your injectors.
    • Nissan stock oil pressure is typically about 1 bar at 1000 rpm plus about 1 bar per thousand revs on top.
×
×
  • Create New...