A.c.t For Sale Thread

[Got a Pulsar]

Already been at work for halfa. You hear me at 6:30? LOL

[Brad54]

  On 10/03/2013 at 9:42 AM, Jeremy90 said:

.....

I am currently running 1 bar or 0.8. PSR would be around the 8-9?

.....

edit: It has new plugs as far as I'm aware (As of 3 weeks ago, pre-purchase).

edit2x The Mate: It's got a stock ecu, it's also running a dual stage boost controller which I think it's installed incorrectly. I also think the fact that you got 3x yellow jacks coils and 3x standards.

Not trying to throw a spanner in the works... but, 1 bar is actually closer to 14-15 psi.

IIRC on a stock ECU if the boost goes higher than a certain amount (like 12psi or so) it will cut power to the engine to prevent damage.

I had the same problem when I 1st got my R34, when boosting hard it would cut out pretty sharply.

Found out it was over-boosting to around 15psi - which is bad for stock turbos.

So I bought myself a manual boost control (TurboTech! ) and a decent boost gauge, wound the pressure down to 8-9 psi and the problem is completely gone!

Might be something to look in to, hope this helps!

[Anfanee]

Simply upping boost and not setting the car up properly=pooped engine.....

[Sinista32]

Very true Brad - neither stock ecu or turbo designed to handle it.

1 Bar = 14.5 PSI

2 Bar = 29 PSI

3 Bar = 43.5 PSi and so on

ECU will cut and Turbo life will be dramtically decreased over time.

[Anfanee]

Richard That R32 GTR for sale that Skaife owned.... DO WANT.

[RosieR34]

  On 11/03/2013 at 11:33 PM, Brad54 said:

Not trying to throw a spanner in the works... but, 1 bar is actually closer to 14-15 psi.

IIRC on a stock ECU if the boost goes higher than a certain amount (like 12psi or so) it will cut power to the engine to prevent damage.

I had the same problem when I 1st got my R34, when boosting hard it would cut out pretty sharply.

Found out it was over-boosting to around 15psi - which is bad for stock turbos.

So I bought myself a manual boost control (TurboTech! ) and a decent boost gauge, wound the pressure down to 8-9 psi and the problem is completely gone!

Might be something to look in to, hope this helps!

This maybe the answer to my problem, becuase it use to cut out at 5,000 RPM but when fiddling with the boost it now cuts out at 3,000 RPM. A friend of mine was changing it and testing it so I'm not sure what it was on and what it is now on.

But, this information may solve the problem. Also, could a mixture of 2 different set of coil plugs be an issue as well?

Cheers for your help everyone, and apologiees for ninjaing the thread.

[Brad54]

  On 12/03/2013 at 12:03 AM, Jeremy90 said:

This maybe the answer to my problem, becuase it use to cut out at 5,000 RPM but when fiddling with the boost it now cuts out at 3,000 RPM. A friend of mine was changing it and testing it so I'm not sure what it was on and what it is now on.

But, this information may solve the problem. Also, could a mixture of 2 different set of coil plugs be an issue as well?

Cheers for your help everyone, and apologiees for ninjaing the thread.

Apparently stock engine + ECU + Turbo shouldn't really be messed with to go over 10 psi.

Stock boost for an R34 is something like 6-7 psi so having 1bar/15psi is like double! which surely cant be good...

It may very well be combination of things - having boost too high + having odd/failing coil packs etc but I would start with the cheaper possible fixes 1st.

You don't want to spend $1000 only to find out the problem was a $50 fix.

IMO get yourself a decent accurate boost gauge if you don't already have one, even if it's only temporary, and lower the boost to safe levels and try that out.

Not sure about stock R33s but the stock R34 GTT boost gauge is a bit hard to get an accurate reading on account of the short sweep but large range. For example it's kinda hard to determine whether your boosting to 8 psi or 12 psi, which is a pretty big difference really.

[RosieR34]

  On 12/03/2013 at 12:44 AM, Brad54 said:

Apparently stock engine + ECU + Turbo shouldn't really be messed with to go over 10 psi.

Stock boost for an R34 is something like 6-7 psi so having 1bar/15psi is like double! which surely cant be good...

It may very well be combination of things - having boost too high + having odd/failing coil packs etc but I would start with the cheaper possible fixes 1st.

You don't want to spend $1000 only to find out the problem was a $50 fix.

IMO get yourself a decent accurate boost gauge if you don't already have one, even if it's only temporary, and lower the boost to safe levels and try that out.

Not sure about stock R33s but the stock R34 GTT boost gauge is a bit hard to get an accurate reading on account of the short sweep but large range. For example it's kinda hard to determine whether your boosting to 8 psi or 12 psi, which is a pretty big difference really.

I think I'll be taking out my notepad and pen and writting all this down. Cheers for the advice ! It's helping out more than you guys think.

I got a boost gauge - whether or not it's telling a true reading is unkown.

[Trozzle]

Yeah it's quite likely that your turbo might actually be causing the ECU to hit R&R (rich and retarded). This is where the airflow the AFM is reading exceeds what the ECU has been told is 'safe' and therefore shits itself and goes into damage control by dumping extra fuel in and retarding ignition timing.

Stock boost for an R33 GTS-T is 5psi up until 4500rpm, at which point it increases to 7psi. If you're running a boost controller of any kind, it should be used IN PLACE of the stock solenoid. Roughly 10psi is a safe limit to aim for, as the it will prolong the life of the turbo (as opposed to anything above 10psi lol) and should in 99% of cases avoid triggering R&R.

If you're sure the boost isn't exceeding around 10psi, then perhaps the cause of the misfire could be either spark plugs or coilpacks. If you have a stock turbo, it's more likely to be the plugs being old and wanting replacement. Other than this being fiddly as all f**k, the spark plugs are like $5 each lol. You're after NGK plugs, part number BCPR6ES (or just get the Bosche equiv, can't remember their part number off hand). These plugs are just heat range 6 and 0.8mm gap.

Should the plugs not fix the problem, then it's likely your coilpacks as suggested - assuming they too are stock items. After this many years of heat cycling, the silicone breaks down and allows the spark to escape through the cracked plastic body of the coilpack and earth out on the head, rather than flowing through to the spark plug and doing its job lol

[RosieR34]

  On 12/03/2013 at 2:47 AM, Trozzle said:

Yeah it's quite likely that your turbo might actually be causing the ECU to hit R&R (rich and retarded). This is where the airflow the AFM is reading exceeds what the ECU has been told is 'safe' and therefore shits itself and goes into damage control by dumping extra fuel in and retarding ignition timing.

Stock boost for an R33 GTS-T is 5psi up until 4500rpm, at which point it increases to 7psi. If you're running a boost controller of any kind, it should be used IN PLACE of the stock solenoid. Roughly 10psi is a safe limit to aim for, as the it will prolong the life of the turbo (as opposed to anything above 10psi lol) and should in 99% of cases avoid triggering R&R.

If you're sure the boost isn't exceeding around 10psi, then perhaps the cause of the misfire could be either spark plugs or coilpacks. If you have a stock turbo, it's more likely to be the plugs being old and wanting replacement. Other than this being fiddly as all f**k, the spark plugs are like $5 each lol. You're after NGK plugs, part number BCPR6ES (or just get the Bosche equiv, can't remember their part number off hand). These plugs are just heat range 6 and 0.8mm gap.

Should the plugs not fix the problem, then it's likely your coilpacks as suggested - assuming they too are stock items. After this many years of heat cycling, the silicone breaks down and allows the spark to escape through the cracked plastic body of the coilpack and earth out on the head, rather than flowing through to the spark plug and doing its job lol

It is sounding more and more convincing to be the ECU. All the symptons you have suggested has been happening. (Fuel gauge dropping so quick - used 2 full tanks within 2 days - 1 day = 2 hour drive on a highway and some testing on the second day which brought it to empty). Also the engine just spits and spatters when boost engages at x bar. I'm thinking to winding the boost all the way down so it's at like 0.2 bar (Whatever PSI that is).

If it stops spluttering after lowering the boost, does that mean I do not need coilpacks?

[Trozzle]

  On 12/03/2013 at 3:22 AM, Jeremy90 said:

It is sounding more and more convincing to be the ECU. All the symptons you have suggested has been happening. (Fuel gauge dropping so quick - used 2 full tanks within 2 days - 1 day = 2 hour drive on a highway and some testing on the second day which brought it to empty). Also the engine just spits and spatters when boost engages at x bar. I'm thinking to winding the boost all the way down so it's at like 0.2 bar (Whatever PSI that is).

If it stops spluttering after lowering the boost, does that mean I do not need coilpacks?

Well due to the way the stock setup works, the lowest boost you can possibly achieve will be 5psi (0.35bar or thereabouts). Unfortunately even if lowering the boost right down makes the problem go away, it doesn't actually tell you what the cause was.

Rich and retarded is pretty obvious, it will be a SIGNIFICANT loss of power rather than misfiring. I'd say it's most likely to be spark plug or coilpack related, leaning towards coilpacks.

[RosieR34]

  On 12/03/2013 at 3:59 AM, Trozzle said:

Well due to the way the stock setup works, the lowest boost you can possibly achieve will be 5psi (0.35bar or thereabouts). Unfortunately even if lowering the boost right down makes the problem go away, it doesn't actually tell you what the cause was.

Rich and retarded is pretty obvious, it will be a SIGNIFICANT loss of power rather than misfiring. I'd say it's most likely to be spark plug or coilpack related, leaning towards coilpacks.

I have everything open atm. (Airbox, exhaust etc) So ECU should be picking that up right? It has new plugs as of 3 weeks ago. I'll just need to test the coilpacks I think.

[Sinista32]

  On 11/03/2013 at 11:58 PM, Anfanee said:

Richard That R32 GTR for sale that Skaife owned.... DO WANT.

It's $90k to expensive. It's worth to me a maximum of $40k

Not paying 90 thou for his signature on the airbox.

1989 GTR with 14000kms isnt worth $130k

Seeing you can get a later prisitne model with under 2000k for $60k

[Anfanee]

  On 12/03/2013 at 4:13 AM, Sinista32 said:

It's $90k to expensive. It's worth to me a maximum of $40k

Not paying 90 thou for his signature on the airbox.

1989 GTR with 14000kms isnt worth $130k

That GTR will be priceless one day. ONE DAY I CAN SAY I TOLD YOU SO!

[Brad54]

While I can't say whether or not you'll need new coilpacks, lowering the boost might fix your problem, but it might not too...

Even if it doesn't fix it, you will have narrowed it down and your car will also be running a much safer boost pressure which is a good idea regardless!

And if it does fix it then YAY! This tells you that it was just the stock ECU doing its job and cutting power before any harm can be done to the engine, something the stock ECU is designed to do.

But like Troy said the cut will be very noticeable and not just spluttering, will be more like it's suddenly shut the engine off for a moment.

^also like Troy said - beat me to it! - The lowest possible boost you can run is determined by your wastegate actuator but the highest boost limit is determined by a boost controller of some kind, whether it be stock boost solenoid, bleed valve, manual/electronic boost controller etc.

[RosieR34]

Okay, I'll keep that in mind when I do the testing. I'll be lowering the boost that is for sure. I didn't realise it was so high.

A fellow SAU member, Rob, Is kind enough to lend him his coilpack (And a few extras) to test to see if it is the coilpack before I go out and spend $600 on splitfire coilpack haha.

I just hope it's not the ECU, apparently they're an expensive piece of hardware.

[Got a Pulsar]

  On 12/03/2013 at 4:59 AM, Jeremy90 said:

Okay, I'll keep that in mind when I do the testing. I'll be lowering the boost that is for sure. I didn't realise it was so high.

A fellow SAU member, Rob, Is kind enough to lend him his coilpack (And a few extras) to test to see if it is the coilpack before I go out and spend $600 on splitfire coilpack haha.

I just hope it's not the ECU, apparently they're an expensive piece of hardware.

Coils, Boost gauge, Stock ECU, Sparkies, Stock Actuator & Boost solenoid and Airflow Meter are all available for troubleshooting Plus a Laptop with ECUtalk cable.

[Brad54]

^haha wow top bloke Rob! Looks like your all set then Jeremy!

[Sinista32]

Hey Rob, do you think his car needs 2 extra doors too

Must be lonely for you

[Got a Pulsar]

  On 12/03/2013 at 6:01 AM, Brad54 said:

^haha wow top bloke Rob! Looks like your all set then Jeremy!

What can I say? Sometimes I like to Help the Humans.

As far as I know, it's only DJBarnstar and I who have 33 4doors in the ACT SAU world.

Must be depressing for all those with only 2 doors... Bit like only having one Testicle.

Everything works but you know something's missing.