Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So I bought another skyline and I need to sell bits off it to recover some money. I will post up what I can spare but if you are after anything, ask as it might be spare.

R32 Radiator - $120

RB20 Coil packs - $100

GKtech hicas lock bar - $90

R33 knuckle with hubs - $70 each

R32/S13 Rear Coilovers (Tein???) - $180

I will also be breaking down a RB20DET once it's out, most likely be separating in pieces such as:
- Long motor

- Inlet manifold with injectors

- Turbo and exhaust manifold

- CAS

- Coilpacks

So I bought another skyline and I need to sell bits off it to recover some money. I will post up what I can spare but if you are after anything, ask as it might be spare.

R32 Radiator - $120

RB20 Coil packs - $100

GKtech hicas lock bar - $90

R33 knuckle with hubs - $70 each

R32/S13 Rear Coilovers (Tein???) - $180

I will also be breaking down a RB20DET once it's out, most likely be separating in pieces such as:

- Long motor

- Inlet manifold with injectors

- Turbo and exhaust manifold

- CAS

- Coilpacks

R33 radiator shroud

So, something else has presented itself and now I'm wondering if anyone is interested a RB20det engine package.

Motor will come complete with loom, coilpacks, turbo, manifolds, injectors, computer, etc. It will need stock or FMIC piping as I will be keeping it but I do have some intercooler pipes spare. After $1000 but make an offer. It is still in a car so you can see it running if you wish.

What :R33 GTR Brake Rotors

Condition: Unknown brand, still got a bit of life in them, not lipped too badly

Price: Free to good home Six pack of Coopers Sparkling

Only listing them on here because I need them less than I want the space they take up and it seems a waste to put them in the bin.

My skyline is for sale, $6k firm if sold this weekend.

Check gumtree ad, or pm for more details or photos.

http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/bonython/cars-vans-utes/1993-nissan-skyline-r32-gtst-m-spec-coupe/1046251500

Edited by dirtywan

My Gloss black GTR Bonnet

Condition is immaculate

has the heat/sound deadener and squirters

$600 (or $700 if you wish to barter)

most have seen it on my GTR or in my mancave

however if you want to drop by or need pics

Just ask

Cheers

Richard

Will also be selling off both sets of my Rays Volk GTC's soon

Gold set to suit GTS-t's (Face 2)

18 x 9 +29 ®

18 x 8 +29 (F)

4 x Federals RSR's on rims Good tread road legal

Minor rash will be fixed first

Sit hella flush on my 34 GTT

$2400

Diamond Black to suit GTR's

18 x 9.5 +15

2 x Bridgestone Potenza's RE050's (road legal tread)

Minor rash is being fixed now

Also sit flush with guards

$2400

Both sets come with Rays Nuts

- Volk CF centre caps

- Socket/s

Payment plans on Rims available if your not so flush with cashish

Very interested in the black gtc's. Are these still available?

Yes the Diamond Black Volk GTC's are still available and reduced somewhat in Price (no RSR tyres or Bridgestones on them anymore)

Will work out a good price for those genuinely interested. Current pictures without tyres maybe posted in the next day or so. First in with a $500 deposit wins.

on mine they look like

Edited by Sinista32

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know this one’s the BB one. My tuner did make mention about the actuator. I am curious about the VCT as well
    • Might also needs a stronger actuator with the right preloading. With older 2019 built bush G3 units, BB upgrade or 21U housing down size makes a pretty decent gain in response as well. 
    • Hey lads  so im finally putting together my rb30 forged bottom end and ran into an issue. I measured my main bearing clearance with arp main studs torqued to 60 ft-lbs using ACL H series STD size bearings and standard, un-ground crank shaft journals and got an oil clearance reading of about 1.3 thou measuring straight up and down and about 2.8 thou measuring at a 45 degree angle (just above and below the parting line). My machine shop said they measured the main tunnel and it was all within spec (they didnt say the actual measurement) and to go with a standard size bearing, which i have done and the clearance is too tight, I'm guessing because of the extra clamping force from the arp studs distorting the main tunnel. I was wanting to run about 2.5 thou main bearing clearance.  My questions are: 1. could i just use the HX extra 1 thou clearance ACL bearings? that would fix my straight up and down clearance making it about 2.3 thou, but then would the side to side clearance be too big at around 3.8 thou? 2. what actually is the recommended main bearing clearance for measuring near the parting line / side to side. i know its supposed to be bigger as the bearing has some eccentricity built into it but how much more clearance should there be compared to the straight up and down measurement? at the moment there is about 1.5thou difference, is that acceptable or should it be less? 3. If i took the engine block + girdle back to the machine shop and got them to line bore the main tunnel (like i told them to do the first time, but they said it didnt need it) what bearing size would i buy? the STD size bearing shells already slide in fairly easily with no real resistance, some even falling out if i tip the girdle up-side-down. If im taking material out of the main tunnel would i need a bearing with extra material on the back side to make up for it? this is probably confusing af to read so if something doesn't make sense let me know and ill try explaining in a different way. My machine shop doesn't come back from christmas break until mid January, hence why i'm asking these questions here. TIA for any help or info 
    • I bought the model back in Japan in Feb. I realised I could never build it, looked around for people who could build it, turns out there's some very skilled people out there that will make copies of 1:1 cars or near enough. I'm not really a photo guy... but people were dragging me in a group chat for the choice of bumper as someone else saw the car before it was finished as they are also a customer of that shop. I took the photo in the above post because I was pretty confident that the lip would work wonders for it. Here's some more in-progress and almost-done pics. It gives a good enough idea as to what the rear looks like!   I have also booked in a track day at the end of January. Lets all hope that is nothing but pure fun and games. If it's not pure fun and games, well, I've already got half an engine spare in the cupboard 
    • Well, do ya, punk? Seriously though, let's fu<king go! The colour and kit looks amazing on the car. Do you have any shots from the rear? I don't quite follow how the model came around. You bought the white kit and he modified it to match your car? Looks nuts either way!
×
×
  • Create New...