Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Microtech LT12s has an AUX output, you need to set up a relay thats triggered from the output, the AUX can be set with RPM on and off. Should see a decent midrange gain from the VCT, it will have to be retuned.

Edited by 51NNA

Nothing wrong with microtech's, i've had 3 car that run them! They never gave me any problems an did everything i needed it to do, no point in buying a ecu with all the bells and whistles if u never use them!

fark it annoys me when ppl post garabage like this about computers... Im sure it will do more then enough for what most ppl neeed.... I never had a problem...

Doesn't mean it is a good idea to run it !

I bet I could set up a carby blow through set up on my rb25 and it would be "good enough" and if it worked I could say "without a problem" as well.

The stock ECU has better tunability than a microtech, it has more features and does an all round better job at every single part of running a car.

You have paid money for a down grade.

Nothing wrong with microtech's, i've had 3 car that run them! They never gave me any problems an did everything i needed it to do, no point in buying a ecu with all the bells and whistles if u never use them!

You are right I don't ever use my nice cold start, my idle air valve control that automatically adjusts when the AC comes on, I also don't need fuel economy via an O2 sensor.

Actually Rolls, fuel economy is one place where it is so much easier with a Microtech than with Nistune. It's really hard to lean out the cruise section in Nistune. It's a doddle with a Microtech.

You cannot argue against the statement that a Microtech actually does a decent job of running a fairly simple engine like an RB. Sure, you miss out on a few things, but they do work, and are fairly easy to tune (once you're used to their arse backwards electronic carby way of doing things). I'd much rather have a Microtech than pretty much any Haltech that's ever been released.

Yeah I know they work, but the lack a lot of the handy factory features that the factory ECU has. You can lean out cruise on a nistune the same way if you want, just turn off O2 feedback and pull fuel out until you are happy, or if you are lazy just leave the O2 feedback on and it'll be about the same as the factory fuel economy if you don't stuff things up too much.

  • 1 year later...

quote by rolls, "I like to construct strong views on random things, and then argue for absolutely no reason about them." some one needs a hug? anyone in Adelaide can help out?

before you flame me rolls, i agree with you about functionality of the nistune, however they carry an awsome reputation for results built from racing results! They are designed for high reving rotary's with fast and reliable processing time.

  • Like 1

quote by rolls, "I like to construct strong views on random things, and then argue for absolutely no reason about them." some one needs a hug? anyone in Adelaide can help out?

before you flame me rolls, i agree with you about functionality of the nistune, however they carry an awsome reputation for results built from racing results! They are designed for high reving rotary's with fast and reliable processing time.

Awesome rep from back in the day when they were a great ECU, it is like getting a magazine from the 90s where windows 95 and a pentium 200 was amazing, doesn't mean it still stands up that well today, sure if all you want to do is run excel from the nineties it probably does it well (eg running a rotary that used to be carby fed), but once again doesn't mean it is great today.

There "fast and reliable processing time" is slower and no less reliable than any new ECU.

Edited by Rolls

They are an absolute bucket of shit. Customer support is pathetic, you can't do a thing with them unless handing over wads of cash and the software sucks balls. We had to send a rb25 one back to get something as simple as a thermo fan output enabled, which is yet something else they charge you for.

The vct can be turned on and off in the aux screen.

Actually Rolls, fuel economy is one place where it is so much easier with a Microtech than with Nistune. It's really hard to lean out the cruise section in Nistune. It's a doddle with a Microtech.

what? just highlight the cells you want and press 'O' then drop the value to whatever you want.. it's dead beat simple... I've used Microtech before, it's so damn confusing.

1x table for RPM vs. Timing, then 1x table for Timing trim vs. Load... no sure why they just didn't want to use a 3D map like other people.

what? just highlight the cells you want and press 'O' then drop the value to whatever you want.. it's dead beat simple... I've used Microtech before, it's so damn confusing.

1x table for RPM vs. Timing, then 1x table for Timing trim vs. Load... no sure why they just didn't want to use a 3D map like other people.

Yup. Unless you wanted to keep closed loop. And perhaps you've not tried to do it on a more modern Nissan ECU? VE tables make it hard to know if you're achieving anything at all. You can't switch off feedback on a per cell basis on those anyway.

I'm not defending Microtech by the way. They are unpleasant to tune, as I stated in my original post. But especially back when the only Nissans being played with were RB20s and CA18s, they did a good job, and did return excellent fuel economy - far better than stock.

Yup. Unless you wanted to keep closed loop. And perhaps you've not tried to do it on a more modern Nissan ECU? VE tables make it hard to know if you're achieving anything at all. You can't switch off feedback on a per cell basis on those anyway.

I'm not defending Microtech by the way. They are unpleasant to tune, as I stated in my original post. But especially back when the only Nissans being played with were RB20s and CA18s, they did a good job, and did return excellent fuel economy - far better than stock.

I do find that the Nistune O2 closed loop is funny, it's quite lazy. I prefer to just set at stoich of the bat for idle/cruise etc. and I turn it off as it comes on song. It tries to stoich coming onto boost which makes the car feel lazy. I've only ever used it on a R33 and S15s nothing newer so perhaps you're right.

Do many people tune nistunes with the O2 feedback off?

you always need to disable O2 feedback whilst tuning, then re-enable it once you're done.. however I just leave it off completely on the idle/cruise cells.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They do. The pale yellow translucent ones from Japan were .... I dunno. Useless? Whiteline and SuperPro are probably fairly similar. There's bound to be a range of different hardnesses amongst the dozens of options on the market. The simple fact is that the pineapples don't get up inside the bush at all. They just sort of exist in the space between the washer/bracket and the subframe's bush outer tube, and...exert a bit of force between them? Or something like that. I'm sure that with enough provocation, they will simply allow one to more wrt the other.
    • I'm not sure they came in different hardnesses? Going from memory only - I had set them up in the balanced setup. I also have poly bushes, so I have both poly bushes and pineapples. This is what my memory tells me at least. I'll have to take a look under there to be sure. The tramp was so bad that I managed to eject/kill a diff bushing, so those I know are stock. The tramp is bad enough that you are 200% sure you are doing severe damage to the car. It's not just chirping or vibration, it feels like you're hitting a speed hump/kerb 10 times a second. The issue has persisted between subframes! (I went from Hicas to non hicas subframe and replaced every bush a few years ago now) so I'm entirely lost. Every arm is factory.
    • Can recommend the Frenchys kit, been using it 2 years now with no issue, very happy with it.  Only thing for me was upgrading the thermo fan but I am super fussy on cooling.   Also interested in electric AC, partly for boot mount to have a clean bay and partly would love the idea of cooling off the car before i get in. The battery setup to do that might be tricky / expensive though.  Found this an interesting watch.    
    • I put Whiteline pineapples in my old 33, they came in a 6 pack of them, got rid of the axle tramp altogether, cheap, quick and easy install,  they were pretty solid units though...???high durometer???? and NVH was increased a fair bit How hard are the ones you installed?
    • I'd suggest the answer to the first question is at least a qualified "yes". I'll come back to that. Pineapples just don't do a lot to solidify the mounting of the subframe. They do a little bit, and that little bit was clearly helpful to me in the past, but the main thing they are intended to be used for is to tip the orientation of the subframe to try to either dial in more or less anti-squat. You can install them one way to try to increase launch traction, or the other way to try to increase lateral grip (at the notional expense of longitudinal traction). Or, as I did, you install them neutral, which only really offers a little bit of "snugging" up of the subframe. When I did pineapples, that was the only option. No-one had a machined alloy collar like the GKTech ones. There were some other options, but nothing like the slip in collars. And it is clear from looking at them that they occupy almost all the free space inside the rubber bush, so they will do a lot to stop them moving internally. So I thought, "that's the game for me!". Obviously the next/adjacent step is poly bushes, but what's the point in doing that with all the work and hassle required to change them over, when jamming (and I mean literally jamming) some alloy into the rubber bushes probably gives an equivalent, or possibly even superior result? So, to go back to your 1st question, I would suggest, for the investment of <<$100 and a morning spent lying under the car swearing and getting some sore fingers, it is certainly something you should try. Who knows? Maybe your situation is so severe that it doesn't solve it. But it might help a lot. If your problem is as severe as you say it is, the next thing to look at is what the rest of the bushes in the rear end are made from. Things like the Hardrace arms with hardened rubber bushes might be a good thing (for the purposes of having adjustability AND stiffer bushes). Otherwise, just poly bushes throughout could be a help. Or following in my fever dream footsteps and putting a lot of sphericals into the rear? Eliminate undersired movement to avoid the build up of resonances that cause the tramp. Also, if you have adjustable uppers in the rear, and you haven't put effort into adjusting the traction arms to minimise bump steer, there might be some advantage in that. If you don't want to go to the effort of doing it yourself (like I am pretty much forced to in Adelaide, owing to a lack of race alignment specialists) then surely there's a place in Melbs that is able to do it. It will cost $$, But that's life.
×
×
  • Create New...