Tomei Or Nitto Oil Pump

[R31Nismoid]

3 pumps in 4 months and you think it's still the oil pump?

You clearly have some other issue with parts or the build.

[hkssam]

please tell me it was not a solid aluminium crank pulley.... second pump failure source right there...

it was solid pulley

ordering ATI balancer today itself thru ebay.

forum member offer me N1 pump with reimax gears. should I go for it or stick with tomei?

Edited May 15, 2012 by hkssam

[hkssam]

3 pumps in 4 months and you think it's still the oil pump?

You clearly have some other issue with parts or the build.

what could be the reason. am I missing anything?

If i do a burnout then pump gears will be in pieces. as i told u it beaks on quick rev up.

me helpless

Edited May 15, 2012 by hkssam

[jangles]

The balancer #1

And then any crank damage you've done while popping 3 engines

Those billet things are just a pulley, pointless.the 'balancer' or 'dampner' does just that, dampens harmful vibrations.

Edited May 15, 2012 by jangles

[BMYHOE]

im fitting a tomei pump to a rb30 and we have to machine / die grind the block to make it fit...

[GTRNUR]

Im guessing your using one of these crank pulley's... They are absolutely worthless. The only way you can possibly get away with them is to use an external belt drive pump, and even then it will be a race use only. Any kind of decent miles put on the engine will cause bearing damage. Throw it in the bin and buy a Ross or ATI balancer.

http://www.ebay.com/...ssories&vxp=mtr

You need to check the crank isn't bent, the main tunnel isn't align bored off center, and that the oil pump locator dowels are all correct. To do this is very simple, and its all done with the same test.

1. Remove both camshafts, so you don't break anything when rotating the engine without a timing belt.

2. Get your new pump, whatever brand, and pop out the front seal.

3. Install the pump on the engine, with gasket, and torque bolts to spec.

4. Rotate engine by hand to TDC. (note key way position)

5. Measure the clearences each side of the pump with a feeler gauge, and document as position 1.

6. Rotate the engine clockwise 45 degrees, and re-measure again. Document as position 2 measurements.

7. Repeat steps until you have 8 measurements.

Measurements are taken with a feeler gauge, inserted through the front of the pump to measure the gap each side of the flats.

Interperting the results.

1. If your crank is bent, or the oil pump drive colar is installed off-center, you will see a trend where the larger clearence follows the rotation of the crank around.

2. If your pump dowels are not centering the pump dead-center on the crank (or align bore is out), (( AND YOUR CRANK IS OK)) , then you will see the same clearences in the same positions at position 1-4 and its 180 degree position.

Ideally, clearences should be the same each side of the pump gear, and close to identical through a 360 degree rotation of the crank.

Once you have taken these measurements post up the results.

You can also measure the crank to see if it is bent using a dial indicator. Set it up mounted to the front of the block, and poisition the dial indicator on the round end of the crank snout. 0 the gauge and rotate the crank slowly to measure the crank for straightness. Look for any deviation on the gauge, and note the deviation that is the largest. Reset the gauge to 0, and then rotate it till you can measure the total throw on the end of the crank.

You should see 0 if it is perfect.

[R.3.2.G.T.R]

great informative post

[hkssam]

@ GTRNUR: thanks for ur advisory post. gonna do it and keep you posted. cheers again for your info.

[JustinP]

+ 1

great informative post

[OMGGTR]

After reading through i got some info that would have f**ked my build up lololol i was planning tomei pump with standard sump, ive got sump baffle cam baffles 1.1mm restrictor and a spool import head drain kit who in melb can weld on a trust sump extention because now i need to get it done lol

[GTRNUR]

After reading through i got some info that would have f**ked my build up lololol i was planning tomei pump with standard sump, ive got sump baffle cam baffles 1.1mm restrictor and a spool import head drain kit who in melb can weld on a trust sump extention because now i need to get it done lol

Get a -16 size fitting welded to the top/right side of the sump when your at it, forward as far as you can put it. Your catch can will have an oil return to that location.

[OMGGTR]

Already there except the head drain is going there....

[R31Nismoid]

Built right you shouldn't need an external drain. I cannot think of one GTR that see's circuit work down here running one - and that's from all workshops.

[GTRNUR]

Built right you shouldn't need an external drain. I cannot think of one GTR that see's circuit work down here running one - and that's from all workshops.

Odd...? I noticed that the Racepace built GTTRKT RB28 vcam R34 and the Midori R34 both ran external drains to the drivers side sump from washer bottle mounted catch cans.

I suppose if you meant dedicated circuit though, very small restrictors could be used as revs are always up high which would ensure the head gets enough, but not too much oil. Such a restrictor might not be a good idea in a street car though. I believe it was Steve telling me that some of the racepace cars were using a 0.9mm restrictor. Is this what you meant?

[Ziller]

Built right you shouldn't need an external drain. I cannot think of one GTR that see's circuit work down here running one - and that's from all workshops.

I used to run an external drain and an N1 pump that shattered on my GTR, with two built engines when pushed it would soak the fillter on my catch can with oil.

My new engine builder Simon Gishus from Nizpro, during the rebuild he refused to reinstall the external oil drain for his own personal reasons.

I now run a Tomei oil pump with a calerbrated oil flow with no external oil drain and for the last two and a half years not a single drop of oil can be seen anymore comming from the catch can, I have had no problems at all with this setup.

[djr81]

I used to run an external drain and an N1 pump that shattered on my GTR, with two built engines when pushed it would soak the fillter on my catch can with oil.

My new engine builder Simon Gishus from Nizpro, during the rebuild he refused to reinstall the external oil drain for his own personal reasons.

I now run a Tomei oil pump with a calerbrated oil flow with no external oil drain and for the last two and a half years not a single drop of oil can be seen anymore comming from the catch can, I have had no problems at all with this setup.

So the question then is: What size oil restrictor is in the head of your motor?

[BLITZ-26]

I have a stock sump tomei baffles tomei pump 1.5 mm restrictor and a external drainb ts on the side of my head near the exhaust manifold and goes to where my old sencond drain was for the old twin setup

[BLITZ-26]

Hope it should be ok mainly street and a few drift days will be done on it

[OMGGTR]

Can i use the standard sump with baffle and tomei oil pump ?? 1.1mm restrictor

[OMGGTR]

Btw 1.5mm is still to big