Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Since visiting several exhaust places I have come across some conflicting arguments about what's best to quieten down my car to a legal level.

First of all, on the exhaust side of things I have the following:

  • RB 25/30 using an R32 RB25DE head on a forged bottom end - 9:1 Static CR
  • Std Intake/exhaust manifolds, valves, etc. etc.
  • 256deg/8.5mm IN/EX Tomei Poncams
  • GT3076R Turbo
  • Bellmouth dump and 3" front pipe combined
  • Highflow cat (tubular design) with a number I cant remember of cells
  • 3" pipe back to a ~4" magnaflow resonator
  • Magnaflow resonator onto a 3" inlet 3" outlet Jun BL 5" Oval rear muffler with a single 3.5" tip

In saying all this, the reason why I went with this setup was because 3 out of 3 well renowned/recommended exhaust shops here in Adelaide advised me to go with a middle resonator out to a big rear muffler.

Currently the sound volume is definitely not legal. I'd approximate it at around 96 dB at 3-4000 RPM.

This is comparing it to my older setup on my RB20DET (stock turbo, 3" turbo back, no middle muffler, rear cannon @ 97 dB).

The current setup is somewhat droney, loud, and difficult to be inconspicuous unless I'm in 5th @ 60kph doing 1700 RPM. In saying this, its a hell of alot quieter than it used to be when I first got the new setup back with the old exhaust system.

The consensus I get around here on the forums is to run as bigger middle muffler as you can, whilst keeping away from cannons/large tipped rear mufflers. I have recently read a recommendation to use as big a Borla/Hooker etc. muffler in the middle wherever it can fit.

Generally speaking, your typical middle/rear muffler (without going into brands) relies on absorption method to dampen/absorb the noise produced. Whilst resonators rely on destructive interference of sound waves to reduce noise. Is there a reason why I was recommended to use a resonator as opposed to a conventional big middle muffler? Is my centre resonator too small to work effectively in my current setup?

Any input is greatly appreciated as rather than spending the money AGAIN to help quieten it down, Id rather get it right...

Cheers,

David

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/399905-exhaust-recommendation/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I have a straight through 3 inch, with highflow cat, and a varex, open is 102 ish db, shut 77. It is engineered. Laws in sa may be different to nsw though. Keep in mind you cant use alot of power with it shut or bad shit will happen.

In my drive by tests i was 10 db lower than a hilux that drove past before me.

Varex mufflers are in contravention of the ADR legislation unless fitted from factory.

R33's I believe had an option for a "valve" in the exhaust, but Im unsure whether this would warrant the use of a Varex muffler.

In any case, I have a 32, which didn't come with any "valve" from standard; so its a no go for me.

consider integrating a hemholtz chamber or a hidden apexi valve. dynomax makes an integrated mechanical valve muffler that may 'pass'.

also consider adding in a short dual exhaust section with an integrated x-pipe for sound wave cancelation purposes. another idea is a short section of unequal length dual pipes (more sound wave cancelation stuff).

i suspect you were recommended using a resonator (instead of a muffler) for sound quality rather than quantity.

Varex mufflers are in contravention of the ADR legislation unless fitted from factory.

R33's I believe had an option for a "valve" in the exhaust, but Im unsure whether this would warrant the use of a Varex muffler.

In any case, I have a 32, which didn't come with any "valve" from standard; so its a no go for me.

Is everything else engineered? Also current exhaust isn't 'legal' so why isnt varex an option?

varex is a grey area, he said in his eyes, theres no difference in me having a quiet exhaust on and going home and swapping to a huge loud one. Only the time factor. Also not having the controller kept in the car is a good idea. And the idea of an engineers certificate is to override affected ADR's I believe.

ive been having this same problem and have 3 1/2inch dump and system, ive just put a 3inch oval muffler on back and its suprisingly quiet, is a xforce muffler, decent size, the inside of it fish tails so must force the gas into the packing.

I am also interested to know what resonator or muffler to put in middle, the noise level is acceptable now and only really drones a bit at 2000rpm and in higher gears where its loading up slightly.

Ive noticed that an XR6 turbo's exhaust splits the pipe into two going into the cat, is this a good way off quietening it down and allowing good flow? you could have a cat that splits into a y section and then dual muffler at the rear or a massive muffler that has two pipes through it instead of just a single entry and exit, probably might burst the budget though.

so he wants the fastest exhaust, with no noise? lol.

you can only have one or the other (usually)

ok this is what you want. Obveously you'r chasing power by looking at your setup, so obveously 3.5 or 4 inch is the go, or you can splurge on a twin system which is pretty much going to cost double. resonators (hotdogs) decrease drone, everyone should have one. baffled mufflers are going to slow you down, so go the big sports ones, and just get 2 of them. this should be a pretty quiet.

Edited by ClutchBurndout-:(

[quote name=ClutchBurndout- :(' timestamp='1336864848' post='6354154]

so he wants the fastest exhaust, with no noise? lol.

you can only have one or the other (usually)

ok this is what you want. Obveously you'r chasing power by looking at your setup, so obveously 3.5 or 4 inch is the go, or you can splurge on a twin system which is pretty much going to cost double. resonators (hotdogs) decrease drone, everyone should have one. baffled mufflers are going to slow you down, so go the big sports ones, and just get 2 of them. this should be a pretty quiet.

With regards to going 3.5 or 4 inch system - there isnt an immediate need to go this route for the power level I am chasing.

My current setup with the turbo I have has been shown to max out at around 300 ish RWKW on 98 fuel. I am currently making 281 RWKW on a lower reading dyno. Unless I change fuel to E85 (which I am not going to), the current exhaust setup has enough flow to suit. Going 3.5" is just unnecessary IMO.

A twin system is going to shut the car up, but its also going to cost the earth to replace the current system. From what I have seen, using a single setup, it is possible to get it down to legal levels or below. It's just a question of the muffler/resonator size and packaging constraints. Which is why I raised the thread to get some clarification on why I am being told one thing by an exhaust shop and reading a completely different argument on here.

Edited by R32Abuser

To get rid of drone you would be best off tuning a Helmholtz chamber to cancel the unwanted exhaust frequency. Larger muffles will make the whole frequency range quieter but the chamber would target the frequency you want cancelled.

The maths behind reflective sound cancelling is quite complex so its best to make an adjustable length setup if you can. I doubt many muffler shops would help you with it though.

With regards to sizing, you would probably gain over 20kw going up to 3.5 inch at the moment, I gained 30kw but deleted the cat also.

just shove the biggest muffler or mufflers under it you can, 16-18" x 11-12" x 6-8" on the back with your existing middle muffler, if its not quiet enough make the middle muffler bigger, hotdogs don't do much in the way of noise reduction and your 5" rear muffler isn't what I would call a big muffler.

my 3" exhaust was legal (90db as tested by the rta and my engineer) and my 3.5" exhaust is just the same or quieter. the loudest thing when you put your foot down is the pod filter/Turbo.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for sharing this, and BTW if your headlights are in good condition they are worth thousands....you might want to consider replacing them with brand new LED ones like this (https://www.nengun.com/78works/full-led-headlights-r32-skyline) and making enough profit to buy a house in Sydney
    • I'm not sure what sort of shops are nearby, but I'd expect any reasonable exhaust shop could put a cat in it that will not restrict the power that engine makes. Otherwise, if you want to remove it, short lengths that replace the cat are readily available online, search for "de-cat pipes" or "test pipes"  
    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Hope the cans went down well at least 
×
×
  • Create New...