Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys, im keen on getting a bit of a bov pressure release sound, similar to what you get when you use a pod, but i would rather not put a pod in, so is there any DIY mods you can do to the stock bov to make the pressure release noise louder? theres people who do the old block off the bov mod, but i hate the flutter noise, not to mention the possible implications of disabling the bov.

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/399978-stock-r33-bov-noise-mods/
Share on other sites

Can get some gasket paper and cut it to the shape of the flange, then make the hole in the middle smaller than the actual hole. I did it in the hopes that it would shut mine up a bit, but it did the opposite and made it louder.

Can get some gasket paper and cut it to the shape of the flange, then make the hole in the middle smaller than the actual hole. I did it in the hopes that it would shut mine up a bit, but it did the opposite and made it louder.

wont gasket paper just blow into the recirc piping?

Edited by ClutchBurndout-:(

Its not quite what you try to do, but loosely based on it so I'll paste it anyway.

I've actually got a copy and paste space where this is. Read on.

I love these threads.

You love the noise - and put the BOV on the car to be a wanker. Its scientifically proven that if you're a wanker, the first thing you do when you buy a Skyline is install a vent to atmosphere blow off valve, to advertise the fact that you are indeed, a wanker.

Do you even know how the Nissan air intake system works? There is an AFM that measures the air entering the engine. The Stock BOV recirculates FOR A REASON. When your duck whistle, twisty whooshy twirly, dick pulling, sparkly, spinny, shiny, noisy, fuleh sic, wank off valve opens, it dumps air that the engine has measured and allocated fuel for. When only half the air gets into the cylinder because the air it measured is at the street corner where you sped up erratically and backed off because you saw some women on the corner, thinking that when they heard your BOV they'd get naked and run and dive into your car, the engine is now overfueled and under oxygenated, and stalls, backfires, and carries on. You know why? Because you've created a MASSIVE AIRLEAK on a system that will not run with airleaks.

Do you like that fact that you will foul your plugs constantly?

Do you also like attracting the cops attention?

Do you like the risk of being defected and having to pay money for a BOV that didn't need to be there?

Do you like the fact that you are just making skylines more hated? (And don't worry, its almost a guarantee that you'll drive through the main street of town making it release "because you like the wank off sound")

Do you like it how women love the sound, get naked and dive into your car as you drive past?

Do you think SAU will be happy about another "My car is running rough, I only installed a duck whistle, twisty whooshy twirly, dick pulling, sparkly fuleh sic wank off valve" thread

They should create a database script that bans people that install BOVs "just for the sound" or complain when their car runs rough...

I'm was running 300rwkw and had the stock BOV.

Good luck with it though.

[quote name=ClutchBurndout-:(' timestamp='1336902464' post='6354778]

ok

anyway, so what im gonna do is make the hole maybe 10mm, and i think ill be on the money as far as sound goes.

Why dont you just buy a Pod Filter? and if your worried about hot air or defects, buy a cold air box for it

Rather then spending 200 hours trying to Mod the standard BOV

  • 6 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It might be fine. I was just saying that I wouldn't trust it without testing it.
    • Traction wasn't bad, l couldn't give it everything off the line but was able to go WOT about half a second after rolling - good for NZ drag strips.   Like one run I did a 1.96 60ft and pretty sure I was on for a 12.4 but lifted early as I was on a 12.5 dial in, and still won haha 
    • Nice one! I was going to take mine down to SMSP drags one Weds night. I'd love to compare it with my GTR which did a 12.3. The bum-dyno in the 335i says its quicker.   How was the traction @Lithium?
    • AFAIK I've seen other people recommend using the back of the balance tube as well. Andre Simon from HPA at least. I can't imagine it being that far off from ideal even if it was only used to drive a boost gauge from the factory.
    • Hi All, New member here, I've joined to help my son with an issue that is truly doing our heads in. I'll start with a bit of an overview. Chris carried out some modifications to the engine to try and extract just a little extra power out of the motor and make it a bit more efficient. Previous to this work, the car already had an upgraded exhaust, increased boost up to 14psi, modified standard turbo to metal impellers and slightly oversized, upgraded fuel pump, been dyno-tuned at JEM, and some other bits n bobs like coil packs etc. Before the current mods it was making 236rwkw at 14psi but after the new mods it now makes 209rwkw at 14psi. The work he carried out is as follows, timing belt service, water pump replacement, return to sump radium catch can, had oem head rebuilt and machined 0.2mm, fitted Athena cut ring head gasket 1.2mm thick, arp 2000 head studs, added rear prp head drain, added an external wastegate 40mm turbosmart welded off the stock manifold and plumbed back into a 3in dump. The car has been on the dyno and apparently the ignition is working, fuel flow and fuel pressure is fine, injectors are fine, spark plugs are working fine, Maf is working, O2 sensor is working, TPs sensor is working, VCT is working, CAS is working, boost leak test showed no boost leaks, compression test first crank cold 135psi and got to 150psi across all cylinders once cranking, timing is confirmed at tdc with a dial gauge and the cam dots line up, no blockages in intercoolerm throttle body or pre-turbo intake, no blockages in exhaust, cat conveter or down pipe, turbo looks fine and spins and wastegate looks fine and is new. Soz for all the detail but after all this, it has been in 3 times for dyno and each time comes back stating it's not going to make power. After the first (or second, can't remember now) trip to dyno we did find the timing out by one tooth and this improved things, but it is still well down. Does anyone have any ideas?  Any replies much appreciated as we're just not sure of which direction to take this. Regards Rob (Chris's Dad).
×
×
  • Create New...