Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi friends,

i recently purchased an M35 Stagea complete with service book and logs and owners manual....unfortunately they are no good to me. The car has done 93,000km and i want to work out what i need to do for the 100,000k service. I have scaned the index page, i was hoping someone would be able to tell me which page i should be looking at, and then i can scan that to work out what i need to do and what fluids i should change.

Failing that, if anyone knows what Nissan recommends for the 100,000k service for an M35, let me know. for instance what grade gearbox oil to use and so on.

Thanks, Chris

post-56698-0-44183200-1336837640_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/399986-translation-please/
Share on other sites

2-3 has the oil types. Here is a translation for the list of contents:

1. Guarantee

Written warranty

2. Maintenance inspection

2-2 Essential maintenance inspections

2-2 Types of maintenance inspections

2-3 Replacement parts. Oils types.

2-4 Maintenance Inspection methodology

3. How to carry out ordinary maintenance inspections

4. How to carry out simple maintenance

5. Service network

Edited by *LOACH*

hi friends,

i recently purchased an M35 Stagea complete with service book and logs and owners manual....unfortunately they are no good to me. The car has done 93,000km and i want to work out what i need to do for the 100,000k service. I have scaned the index page, i was hoping someone would be able to tell me which page i should be looking at, and then i can scan that to work out what i need to do and what fluids i should change.

Failing that, if anyone knows what Nissan recommends for the 100,000k service for an M35, let me know. for instance what grade gearbox oil to use and so on.

Thanks, Chris

You would get a better response if you posted in the Stagea section as this has been covered many times.

100k service is a normal major service (no timing belts, VQ's are chain driven).

Transmission oil is Matic J (or compatible) ONLY. DO NOT put Dextron 3/Matic D etc in there as it will very quickly destroy the box.

Matic D is used in the Attessa pump (driver side behind the rear wheel under the car) and power steering.

Easiest thing to do would be to use the Nulon 100% Transmission fluid as it is Matic J and D compatible and is a far superior fluid to both.

  • 5 weeks later...

I understand the Japanese but not really clear on what it is instructing you to do. Something like:

If you want to cancel the switched off screen press the screen quality switch a second time (the screen quality switch will be marked as

画質).

I had a bit more of a think about it and was going to edit the above post but it won't let me so sorry for the double post.

I understand the Japanese but I am not really clear on what it is instructing you to do. It is difficult without having the display to try the buttons. A literal translation would probably be something like this:

If you want to cancel the switched off (or cancel) screen press the screen quality switch a second time (or twice if you haven't already pressed it).

By the way the screen quality switch should be marked as 画質.

2-3 has the oil types. Here is a translation for the list of contents:

1. Guarantee

Written warranty

2. Maintenance inspection

2-2 Essential maintenance inspections

2-2 Types of maintenance inspections

2-3 Replacement parts. Oils types.

2-4 Maintenance Inspection methodology

3. How to carry out ordinary maintenance inspections

4. How to carry out simple maintenance

5. Service network

much appreciated mate....have started the service with genuine coolant and gear oil....all other stuff will be after market. Got the Nulon 100 synthetic ATF for PS and Altessa.....should be completed in couple of weeks as im driving it as im doing it unfortunatly.....Cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would like more noise related info for my truly uneducated guess  Does it do it at idle or when revving, clutch engaged, and disengaged? Does it only do it when the car is moving? I've heard "similar" noises from a clutch pack that left the chat room, and CV joints that have chewed themselves out But as Matt said, how's the yokes, tailshaft and centre bearing going after their last little issue Fingers crossed it is something simple  Weird noises make me cringe 
    • One other question, is there a chance that changing the idle speed can lead you down a rabbit hole and is the reason the tuner didn't touch it? Reason I ask is because if that's the reason the tuner avoided it then I probably shouldn't be touching it lol.
    • Pfft. As if I'd ever point a high pressure washer at my car.
    • The nature of my commute has changed. Way back then it was traffic lights all the way, for ~28km. It sucked. When they finally stitched the expressway together I could do a good 15+km of it at a steady 80-100 with no stopping. That alone has gotten me down to flat 10s. Prior to that it was mid-high 10s. I can't remember the delta that I saw when I got the idle down. It was only ~150 rpm, because the idle speed was never terrible, but for the delta in consumption to be noticeable it would have had to have been at least 0.2-0.3 L/100km - which is not to be sneezed at when it comes for absolute free. It's only about 50L per year, but that's ~$100. A few extra pizzas is always welcome. Note that I have a record of every tank of fuel that has ever gone through my car except for a handful put in by someone else, like my mechanic. I can show you the difference between stock RB20 and tuned RB20, stock RB5Neo and tuned, winter and summer fuel blends, winter and summer fuel blends when the ambient temperature is not appropriate for the blend, working O2 sensor, blown O2 sensor, boosting f**k out of it and frightened to boost it because it is pinging, and so on. OK, I probably can't do all that now with 100% clarity - but at the time when any of those things were in event, you could see it in the records. There's 25+ years of simple tank after tank records, so you have to look for landmarks to work out approximately how old any single record is. What's really important is the meta data and that lives in my head.
    • If you're claiming the issues are not skyline specific, then either the USA is living in the 90s / early 2000s, OR you have the issue of "survivor bias". Which is you're mainly hearing and listening to those with terrible experiences, and haven't found the guys who have cars with good decent builds and no problems. It happens in AU too, that plenty of people keep having issues, and they keep going to the workshops that are known to be shit "because I read on the internet". Even worse, are those who keep posting on the internet as though they know for a fact what something is, when they've never touched/looked at said item in their life, and again are making assumptions, based on something they read, or because it's a certain way in other cars. It's even funnier when those same people debate the facts with the people who've lived and breathed this stuff for over 15 years. Example, I've had someone tell me you can't do something with a Skyline, because they read it on the internet, except I can tell they're wrong, as I did that exact thing back in 2008 with my Skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...