Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I recently bought a R33 and it has been a great ride. Just yesterday night after work, my driver side window decided to stop working completely. Started having minor problems few days ago where it stop working and after 15-30mins, it work again. Now the window is fully down, thus the "problem". I have read through the possible fix/problem and would like to see if any members here is driving a R33 s2 (yr1996) that I can borrow their window switch to test if it's the switch faulty or the motor. I've checked the relay box and switch, both seems fine though the "auto" switch doesnt feel smooth like the passenger switch beside. I'm over at Salisbury area so I'll see how we can arrange a meeting or something..any help/advice?

Thanks Heaps

Edited by DragonX2X
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/400060-need-help-with-power-window-switch/
Share on other sites

Mate, there's a much easier way to test the motor than ripping the door trim off of 2 skylines. All you need is a multimeter and a few wires.

When you take the plug out of the relay box, there will be 2 wires coming in as a power source and earth, use the multimeter to detect those, it'll have 12V between them. Then find the wires that actually lead to the motor. using the spare wires you have, attach them to the power wires and then to the motor to give it +12V or -12V. (note, be careful as the motor won't stop when it hits the upper/lower limits, that funtionality is housed within the relay). Youcan use that to verify that the motor is working (or isn't working).

If it is the relay box you can take them apart and resolder the joints, which fixes the issues most of the time. Until then you could drive aroudn with the door trim off and wires handy to be able to use your window, at least that's what i did for a few days.

I cant edit my earlier post...

My keyless remote does close the window when i lock the car with it, so does it bypass the switch? the window still isnt working even when the remote is used, does that points to a faulty window motor?

  • 3 months later...

Just an "update"

Since then I managed to get the window fixed, got a used motor from wreckers and fix it up and it's working again. Just recently the motor went dead and Daniel from ERD found issues with the wiring too. Went to find Chris Rogers (Audio Express) to have it check and fix, all done very quickly and now the window is working again, motor's fine too. All due to the EVIL remote wind up. haha Thanks heaps Chris, you helped me save quite a few bucks there. Cheers :)

Edited by DragonX2X

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Among other things yes. Making sure to either use an oil pressure regulator or the right restrictor size for your oil pump/range of oil viscosities you intend to run, making sure you plumb the lines correctly, turbo should be placed such that it siphons properly even when the water pump isn't turning so you don't boil coolant in the turbo after shutdown, oil return should be low resistance and also preferably picking the one that is most likely to return to the pickup as opposed to some other irrelevant part of the pan. It's far from impossible to figure this out but I have seen people really, really struggle and if that's the case it's easier to just take the path of least resistance. To me, bolt-on twin turbos are a fixed cost whereas single turbo is almost unbounded.
    • Latest round of updates on the car. I purchased and installed a SWS clutch slipper to help with 60ft times and got some second-hand good condition 275/40R17 Hoosier DR2 radials. Test and tune in November showed the tyres were an upgrade over my over 15 year old mickey Thompson's and I got a 1.8 second 60ft and pb et of 11.71 but even then, that run wasn't great due to rain and driver error (the event got called off 10 minutes later fast forward to the weekend just gone 25th of Jan and there was finally a break in the weather to let racing happen. The first run the track was slippery and only managed a 12.1@129 Second run the track was better and got a new pb et and mph: 11.54@131   Lith and I then worked out that I installed the previously mentioned clutch slipper incorrectly and its never been working, and I had just been dumping the clutch the entire time, we also noticed it was on street boost and not race boost. So I lined up for a third run with the car turned up in the first two gears, but the passengers side axle objected to clutch dumps and left the chat which stopped my weekend.   so there will be another attempt in the future once I replace the tyres as they rubbed and are stuffed now. but a low 11 should be on the cards.
    • Ceramic coating and heat shielding, you mean?
    • Turbos don't require pulling the motor apart so that's "easier". I would recommend the Nismo R3 turbos instead if you want to do stock twin turbo. It doesn't make as much power as the 2530s but it's only like ~50 whp off the mark and should have better response (ball bearing CHRA, slightly smaller turbo). A local that went with a Garrett G30 and 6boost manifold recently nearly burned his car to the ground after the hood insulator started melting and and burning so if you go single turbo I recommend doing a lot of research and validation work to make sure you don't do the same.
    • New rear lights, filler panel sprayed, cleaned and back together    before, during, after shots 😍
×
×
  • Create New...