Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeh, it could well have been my fault. Kick in the teeth considering how careful I was installing it, I was paranoid about even scratching anything. In any case, I guess it's irrelevant who caused it. It's happened now, better just get on with what I'm gonna do about it. Unfortunately I may be a little bit out of my depth now.

  • Replies 104
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Alright guys, I just need to make it clear to anyone who has read/is reading this thread that I can't and don't blame the workshop for what has happened. I was upset yesterday about the situation with my car, and I've run my mouth off a bit in regards to it being their fault. That really wasn't the right thing to do, as this could all have quite easily been my fault, and I accept that and will just get on with fixing it.

Allstar have been nothing but helpful while I've had my car in there, and in fact continue to be helpful despite my comments on here. I guess a little bit of miscommunication between them and me about what exactly happened with the manifold lead to me jumping to conclusions, and voicing those conclusions on here wasn't the right thing to do. I have since spoken to them and they explained exactly what happened and what they did, and it's quite clear now that I am at fault and I apologize to them for what was said.

Edited by Hanaldo

dont you hate it when workshops pull you up on what gets said online in public space in the free world...

I just wish I still had the lower section sitting in my garage that I could send over to you...

I just wish I still had the lower section sitting in my garage that I could send over to you...

The lower manifold isn't an issue anymore, Allstar supplied a new one and replaced it. It's whatever has got or is getting into the motor jamming my valves open that is the problem.

oh, well in that case I wish I had another head to give you...

That one I would appreciate :P

Do they have you at knifepoint, should we send the police ...:P

So how did it break? or are you gunna be all suspenseful again..

I think I've got the knife at my own throat :/ lol. No but seriously. I did jump to conclusions.

Still not clear what caused the manifold to break though, probably incorrect tightening as you said. I fcked up with that bolt at the front by not drilling the hole out, so that has probably twisted the manifold.

Just out of curiosity, how do you tell compression is down on one cylinder under load?

Well it loses compression under full load, it doesn't pick back up straight away when it returns to idle or is switched off, which is when my tuner did the comp test. But after being switched off for awhile, it will get full compression back and is good to go again.

Well it loses compression under full load, it doesn't pick back up straight away when it returns to idle or is switched off, which is when my tuner did the comp test. But after being switched off for awhile, it will get full compression back and is good to go again.

Which cylinder/s

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From the pictures I have when doing the job the flywheel is the same diameter, I don't think they're playing weird tricks like putting weights at the outer diameter to increase flywheel inertia or anything like that. The OEM flywheel is definitely heavier, but it's not a huge difference. Quoted weight savings of the clutch is 2 kg so I can't imagine the flywheel being lighter than ~7 kg. Kind of regret not weighing it before the clutch went into the car but as far as driveability goes I have no complaints.
    • HKS trigger kit should be very easy to integrate with a Link. It's a 36-2 crank trigger. Hard part is finding the motivation to take off the timing belt and everything on the front of the engine to install it. You also need to cut out a hole in the oil pump housing so the sensor can read the trigger wheel. Changing out the cam sensor for a 24 tooth setup is probably good enough but as others have mentioned depending on what underlying assumptions are changed it becomes more of a problem. Reading the crank state off of the cam is an abstraction that works in the general case, but if you have an edge case it makes less and less sense. There is a GTX2860 gen 2 that can take a compact 5 bolt housing so it's direct bolt on but I'm not 100% sure of what's involved. Peak compressor efficiency drops off a bit on these turbos vs -5s, 77% vs 73% but you get way, way wider region of operation. The -5s have a really strange surge line in their compressor map that is all over the place. If you think the hot side on the -5s aren't open enough you can try the Tomei T550B turbos which a local tuner seems to be happy with:
    • i need a complete tail light for my R33 GTR if you have please let me know.
    • I need a great maintenance workshop around Idaho, if you know one please let me know..
    • Hello friends, i have a good friend in Canada that looking for a good condition 1993 GTR around him please if one or know someone around you that is willing to let it go please let me know so that i can inform him.....Thanks
×
×
  • Create New...