Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi selling a whole lot of stuff ive had sitting around

also have a complete r33 minus engine and box

so if you need anything off a 33 let me know what your after

cheers

blitz power meter id -$200

gizzmo electronic boost controller -$200

autometer 2 inch silver faced air fuel ratio gauge -$80

autometer 2 5/8 black faced boost gauge with mounting cup -$100

75x300x600 front mount intercooler -$100

r33 gtr intercooler -$200

r33 gtr front reo -$200

gtr injectors -$200

adjustable fuel reg (might be malpassi) -$60

FET tb202 turbo timer good working condition -$50

BOSCH 746 fuel pump (used for about 2 months before engine was removed) -$150

TURBOSMART type2 v port bov almost new -$120

MONZA dual trumpet bov brand new in packet -$100

GREDDY bov(bolts to stock rb cross over pipe) -$100

S13/r32 tanabe rear coilovers no knocks -$200

s14 cusco front strut brace -$150

R33 front strut brace -$100

R33 NISMO front strut brace with brake stopper -$180

R33 rear strut brace -$100

GC8 WRX/FORESTER front and rear strut braces -$100each

CA STUFF

ca18 stainless low mount tune length manifold brand new -$150

ca18 manual tail shaft -$100

ca18 manual pedal setup -$150

ca18 stock manual radiator -$80

ca18 engine loom -$100

ca18 afm -$50

ca18 cas -$50

ca18 alternator/pwr steering pump/starter motor -$50 each

ca18 flywheel and almost new excedy clutch -$150

ca front seats -$100 pair

car rear seats -$80 set

SR STUFF

s14 t28 with snout with lines -$400

stainless split dump with stainless 3inch front pipe -$200

RB STUFF

Rb25det series 2 head complete head including inlet plenum (no coilpacks or injectors) -$300 has a bent valve

Rb25 top feed billet fuel rail hks copy brand new -$100

remote oil cooler with remote oil filter (just uses rubber hoses) -$200

RB25det series 2 air flow meter -$150

RB20det stock injectors -$100

RB25det stock injectors in stock rail -$100

RB20det 5 speed ecu -$100

rb25det 5 speed ecu -$100

R32 cross member -$100

RB20/25 series 1 stock coilpacks -$100

Rb25 series 2 coil packs -$200

rb25 lightened flywheel -$100

rb20/25 flywheel and used excedy clutch bit of meat left -$150

R32 STUFF

4 door front seats -$100 pair

gtst bonnet couple little dimples -$100

front gaurds have been rolled not the best -$60 the pair

rear tanabe coilovers no knocks -$200

4 door boot -$50

7 point bolt in roll cage complete with bolts and base plates -$700

R33 STUFF

R33 brake set up consists of

front and rear hubs,front and rear drilled rotors,front and rear calipers,hand brake setup -$800

R33 boot -$100

R33 bonnet -$200

R33 front guards -$100each

R33 head lights -$300 pair no broken mounts

R33 tail lights -$50 each

R33 rear bar -$80

R33 lower control arms -$150 pair

R33 front reo -$100

R33 rear reo -$100

R33 coupe m spec side skirts (1 crack on the side of each(bit that hooks around) -$100

R33 coupe m spec rear pods -$60

R33 front seats -$150 pair no rips

R33 rear seats -$80

most 33 interior up for grabs aswell hit me up if after something

RANDOM BODY PARTS

R32 gtst bonnet couple very small like dimples -$100

silvia boot -$100

silvia rear tail lights -$50 each

silvia stock rear bar great condition not cracked -$100

silvia rear reo -$100

can get any pics if needed just hit me up

located near byron bay in northern nsw bout 30 mins past tweed heads

Edited by team carefactor
  • Replies 60
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

also have some R34 parts

stock turbo front bar -$200

stock front gaurds -$100 each

nismo 300km dash cluster -$250 (one small crack in outer plastic)

post-48080-0-18558300-1337255569_thumb.jpg

post-48080-0-33135600-1337255582_thumb.jpg

post-48080-0-64748300-1337255597_thumb.jpg

post-48080-0-38910500-1337255611_thumb.jpg

post-48080-0-27935400-1337255659_thumb.png

Nismo strut brace sold pending payment.

No stock steering wheel sorry well not in very good nick ;)

Pm me about the reo if you want

Body parts are series 1

Thanks

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know this one’s the BB one. My tuner did make mention about the actuator. I am curious about the VCT as well
    • Might also needs a stronger actuator with the right preloading. With older 2019 built bush G3 units, BB upgrade or 21U housing down size makes a pretty decent gain in response as well. 
    • Hey lads  so im finally putting together my rb30 forged bottom end and ran into an issue. I measured my main bearing clearance with arp main studs torqued to 60 ft-lbs using ACL H series STD size bearings and standard, un-ground crank shaft journals and got an oil clearance reading of about 1.3 thou measuring straight up and down and about 2.8 thou measuring at a 45 degree angle (just above and below the parting line). My machine shop said they measured the main tunnel and it was all within spec (they didnt say the actual measurement) and to go with a standard size bearing, which i have done and the clearance is too tight, I'm guessing because of the extra clamping force from the arp studs distorting the main tunnel. I was wanting to run about 2.5 thou main bearing clearance.  My questions are: 1. could i just use the HX extra 1 thou clearance ACL bearings? that would fix my straight up and down clearance making it about 2.3 thou, but then would the side to side clearance be too big at around 3.8 thou? 2. what actually is the recommended main bearing clearance for measuring near the parting line / side to side. i know its supposed to be bigger as the bearing has some eccentricity built into it but how much more clearance should there be compared to the straight up and down measurement? at the moment there is about 1.5thou difference, is that acceptable or should it be less? 3. If i took the engine block + girdle back to the machine shop and got them to line bore the main tunnel (like i told them to do the first time, but they said it didnt need it) what bearing size would i buy? the STD size bearing shells already slide in fairly easily with no real resistance, some even falling out if i tip the girdle up-side-down. If im taking material out of the main tunnel would i need a bearing with extra material on the back side to make up for it? this is probably confusing af to read so if something doesn't make sense let me know and ill try explaining in a different way. My machine shop doesn't come back from christmas break until mid January, hence why i'm asking these questions here. TIA for any help or info 
    • I bought the model back in Japan in Feb. I realised I could never build it, looked around for people who could build it, turns out there's some very skilled people out there that will make copies of 1:1 cars or near enough. I'm not really a photo guy... but people were dragging me in a group chat for the choice of bumper as someone else saw the car before it was finished as they are also a customer of that shop. I took the photo in the above post because I was pretty confident that the lip would work wonders for it. Here's some more in-progress and almost-done pics. It gives a good enough idea as to what the rear looks like!   I have also booked in a track day at the end of January. Lets all hope that is nothing but pure fun and games. If it's not pure fun and games, well, I've already got half an engine spare in the cupboard 
    • Well, do ya, punk? Seriously though, let's fu<king go! The colour and kit looks amazing on the car. Do you have any shots from the rear? I don't quite follow how the model came around. You bought the white kit and he modified it to match your car? Looks nuts either way!
×
×
  • Create New...