Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

Just got back from overseas and needed to start the car after letting it sit for quite a few months. Car was serviced before I left for overseas and has only seen around 100km's since that time (mechanic drove it from the shop and dropped it off, and I took it for a quick spin to get washed) and was running completely fine after the service. Today I decided to start the car and take it for another wash - It kicked over first go (I thought the battery would have drained by now but it didn't which was a good sign) - but I noticed it was missing heavily and very rough at idle (engine shaking/surging) - after a minute the car stalls. It did manage to kick over a few more times and has absolutely no problem starting - but continued to sound very erratic and kept stalling after a minute or so.

I've uploaded a short video, and while I know it's not the greatest and there are probably heaps of variables - I'm hoping someone might be able to point me in the right direction as to what to look for. There is no way I can limp it to the mechanics like this as it keeps stalling - so I'm hoping it will be a simple fix (leaky vacuum or something)? I did a search but doesn't seem like anyone has the exact problem I do nor on my engine.

The car is a 1993 R32 GT-R - it does have a powerFC and splitfires but standard injectors, pump, AFM's, etc.

http://www.filehosti...12/IMG_0466.MOV

I stopped the vid just before the car stalled.

I'll have to pull the plugs + AFM's out tomorrow when the sun comes up to check them - but if anyone has any advise before I start would be greatly appreciated (hoping to save my knuckles if I can)!

Edited by DEATH

As a side note - Car is not blowing smoke (weird seeing as it would always at least puff out one dark cloud on startup) - so not sure if it is running very lean now.

And it is quick to rev and is happy to rev up the RPM range (although you can still hear/feel the misses during this time and I haven't wanted to keep revving it alot and to very high RPM incase it is running lean and decides to go *POP*). So I don't think it is the CAS (but could be proven wrong)...

dont know how good fuel would be if it was left for a few months..

Mine sat for 8 months while I was overseas and didn't miss a beat. And my bike for nearly 18 months and was all good after 10 seconds of coughing.

Thanks guys - I have a feeling it is a vacuum leak or the PowerFC has somehow lost it's tune. I'm going to check the sparks/coils/AFM's tomorrow if I get a chance, just to rule them out - and going to have to start the slow process of removing everything to check all the vacuum hoses. If anyone in Melb (around Glen Waverley) wouldn't mind coming down with their PowerFC sometime to plug in to see if the car starts and idles ok - (will only take 5 minutes max or less if it's already out of your car) would be much appreciated.

Maybe a couple of your fuel injectors have siezed up? when i got my injectors cleaned the guy said that they can seize up and they need a tap to free them up. Not sure if that means removing them though, maybe someone else would know.

If you think bout it, nothing has changed its just been sitting there.

R33

One time - I forgot to tighten up my inter-cooler piping and this happened.

I found one of my vacuum lines went connected This happened

Also make sure all coil packs are plugged in #2 wasn't clicked right in for me and so it would still arck across some times but would miss and run rough

Edited by Luke stock R33

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I started with the above in my head too, and I might be reading / thinking about what they want wrong, which is why I complicated it a bit further. Purpose I'm seeing is for the corner indicator to be on with headlights, and then if the indicator turns on it can still flash. The relay part above I can see working as required, except in the case of headlight is on, and indicator is on. The change over relay you've wired in would get signal from the indicator, and as it flashes would give power to the globe from the indicator, but as it flashes off, power comes from the headlight, which would cause the indicator to be constantly on when headlight is on, even while indicator change over is flashing. That is unless we don't care if it flashes or not if the headlight is on? I guess that's an OP clarification.
    • HI, Ive got an r34 gtt sedan A/T. The instrument cluster went out and I replaced it with another A/T everything visually looks the same and all the gauges work now with the exception of the speedometer and odometer. The speedo will stay pinned at zero until I'm going about 55kmh and then it'll say Im going about 5kmh. my odometer seems to be tracking at about a 1/10 of what it should. If I go 1km it'll say I've only gone 0.01. Appreciate any and all help. Ive tried searching through the forums reddit and a local fb group. The only info I think I've found is that some cars didnt come equipped with TCS (mind is) and the clusters may be different between those? I've also installed a brand new VSS and no joy obviously. TIA. 
    • what speedo healer did you use?  
    • Certainly. It is probably broken under the wire style clamp. At least that one is easier to get at than the front one.   Sounds like it isn't a major leak, I'd start with backing off the the water feed and return banjos into the turbos half a turn then tightening properly. Hardlines can still crack over time, either in the tube (particularly when turbos are changed if the banjo is siezed in the the tube) or at the brazed joins between the lines and the banjo fittings. A coolant system pressure test will reveal all. BTW you'd be able to get a sump without exchange, it will just cost more as they will have to source another stock one for the next customer. If you want to address the sump a much better option is something like this https://www.hioctanedirect.com/hi-octane-racing-sump-extension-nissan-rb26 that you weld in locally (and add the oil return fittings at the same time)
    • Pretty sure you are thinking of the throwout bearing there (which you should change when you change your clutch), when they are worn they will get quieter if you put your foot on the clutch. An input shaft bearing is turning/noisy at all times.
×
×
  • Create New...