Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well after owning my car for about 12 months, I have decided to make a build thread.

After owning a fully built R33 GTST, Crazy Evo 7 with all the goodies, an absolute Pearl White 350z…. One of my dreams has to own an R34 GTR which I first drove one back in 2006 thanks to Andz.

It came decision time to sell the 350 and get back into a fast car, I looked at a few Series 8 RX7s that had been built with single turbo conversions, they were quick but it wasn’t an R34 GTR. A buyer popped up for my 350z and at the same time an absolute mint 34 GTR with a few goodies came up….I had to have it.

I bought the car from a local buyer in mint condition with genuine 52000kms and it came with the following goodies.

NISMO Air filter

NISMO Radiator Cap

NISMO Thermostat

SPITFIRE Coilpacks

Blitz Blow Off Valves

Cusco Master Cylinder Stopper

TEIN Bonnet Dampers

APEXI GT Spec cat back

TEIN Coilover with EDFC

Adrenaline Drift 19x10.5

NISMO 320km/h dash

HKS Type 1 turbo timer

APEXI S-AFCII Super Airflow Converter

Blitz Electric Tuning Dual SBS Boost Controller

DSC03162.jpg

DSC03164.jpg

DSC03180.jpg

DSC03178.jpg

Now although the car was immaculate and I was over the world to own my dream car…. It wasn’t my car…So the first thing I upgraded was the front pipes and venom 100cel cat and switched to a power fc and a few little other touches like making my own radiator diversion plate and copy nismo tail lights.

DSC03215.jpg

DSC03304-1.jpg

DSC03129.jpg

With a tune by GT Auto it made nice 256kw atw…..So I added some apexi pods for the sound only (still have the airbox and nismo filter for if I want it on) and noticed there was a lot of oil on the intake pipes…..turbos were shot….well what else to do but chuck on some HKS GT-SS, Nismo Fuel Pump, 700cc injectors.

IMG_0163.jpg

IMG_0165.jpg

This made a restricted 280kw due to the afm.

One of the afm died and the decision was then made to change to a d-jetro. Though we had massive tuning issues with this, one run it would make 317 next run it would 260, so we steadied it out to 287kw.

In the mean time I made some cosmetic upgrades by adding some wheels and front diffuser

DSC_0118.jpg

DSC_0113.jpg

377956_288304831213568_183093901734662_931628_666175046_n.jpg

390068_288305334546851_183093901734662_931640_697555501_n.jpg

then carbon wing stands and carbon rear cover….Also a few little goodies from the nismo omori factory in japan (had to replace my rad cap because the sticker came off…

IMG_0298.jpg

IMG_0304.jpg

IMG_0305.jpg

Although the car is currently going some more upgrades as this is being written…..

Greddy Oil cooler

Tomei poncams Type B

Tomei Cam gears

Greddy Air breather tank

N1 water pump

Haltech platinum pro

Hard piping kit

KTS suction intake

Body work including:

Z tune front bar

Z tune Side Skirts

Z tune rear pods

Carbon ganadors

Carbon z tune bonnet

Nismo wheel nuts

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/400458-sinistas-r34-gtr/
Share on other sites

yeh i mentioned there that we made 280kw with the afm, then one died. So I switched to d-jetro, within the tuning one run it was 317 next the power would drop right off the 260 for some reason. The tuner then got a consistant 287kw. Even he tuners found this really weird, was just the d-jetro playing around for some reason.

Hence why its having the haltech platinum pro being put in at the moment, to iron out the issues the d-jetro was giving us. So def has far more potential than 287 and that would also made in the heat of Brisbane summer.

Running 1.4 bar.

Yeh i agree about the hard piping kit, but the KTS suction kit thats being installed atm, can also be used with the stock airbox.

So once i get that on i will get some new pics up.

The bonnet damper allows you the lift the bonnet up about a foot from the closed position and then it goes up itself and holds up without the normal bonnnet manual strut.

And yeh my tuners were over the moon about me using the haltech vs the d-jetro......

The bonnet damper allows you the lift the bonnet up about a foot from the closed position and then it goes up itself and holds up without the normal bonnnet manual strut.

And yeh my tuners were over the moon about me using the haltech vs the d-jetro......

Makes sense, i didn't know what they we're called.

Forget to mention earlier; the car looks smick, especially with the new rims :-)

  • 2 weeks later...

So Im currently over the other side of the world, but hasnt stopped the progress.

I recently had some goodies installed thansk to GT Auto and waiting for a final tune.

In the mean time my best mate put my intercooler on while some bodywork is being done. (excuse the pic quality)

gr.gif

ATT00003.gif

With the greddy oil cooler installed

ATT00002.gif

ref.gif

ATT00001.gif

vfv.gif

and the engine bay with a few updates

brb.gif

rrd.gif

ATT00005.gif

More to follow in the next few weeks as the body work is finished and the tune is completed

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey   ive gone for a terminated harness on my build so selling brand new unused and unopened piggy back harness  https://www.haltech.com/product/ht-141357-elite-2000-2500-nissan-skyline-r32-33-r34-gt-r/ Located Bathurst NSW   price $600 + postage     
    • The trigger kit I have is similar to the one in the link below. While going through Facebook, I saw someone else mention a similar issue, and I’m starting to think this could be related to the crank gear itself. I understand these parts are CNC machined, but maybe some earlier versions or individual pieces might have slight inconsistencies—it just doesn’t look right in my case. https://www.facebook.com/share/16an8evZd9/?mibextid=wwXIfr I originally installed the crank gear using the thin OEM washer, but as shown in the attached photo, the timing belt walks very close to the edge. When I tried using a Nitto washer—which is thicker—it actually made the issue worse. The belt walks about 1mm off the front edge, which raises more concern about alignment.   I’ve gone through the full process of elimination:   The tensioner pulley and bolt are brand new and installed correctly. The bolt isn’t bent and is oriented properly. The back of the tensioner and the idler pulley are clean and seated correctly. The idler sits slightly more forward, which I understand is due to its design. I’ve experimented with both tight and loose belt tension, but it makes no difference. As soon as the engine runs, the belt immediately walks forward again—even if I reset it beforehand.     At this point, I’m considering replacing the crank gear with your Race Version 1 (12-tooth), but before purchasing, I wanted to ask:   Are you aware of any alignment issues when using this gear? Would this gear help keep the belt aligned correctly, or could the walking still occur? Does it work with a standard missing-tooth crank and rear washer? Is there any specific crank setup or install procedure required?     For reference, I’m not using a front washer, as the PRP crank gear seems to replace the need for one.   Looking forward to your advice.
    • Yep, looks that way. Never driven an E30 or R31 so I can only imagine  
    • Yuh, My new R34 box is sitting on the workshop floor (in its large shipping box, which is a nice thing on its own), along with a front plate to convert to push clutch. There was no way I was interested in rebuilding my existing one. Was only partly interested in the risk of buying a used one. But, if you want a 2nd hander, I can point you to one in/near Melbourne at least. @Komdotkom has one that should be in good enough condition to be usable. I don't think it's in a for sale thread, you'd have to message him. @redzedhas one that definitely needs a rebuild.
×
×
  • Create New...