Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

rb20x6 coilpacks 1 is faulty $100

r32 gts-t front guards one black other in primer $250

x2 r32 rear bumper $50

rear tail lights (no covers) $100

wagan boot spoiler for any r32 painted white brand new $250

starter motor $50

momo black plain steering wheel $50

r32 sunroof spoiler has a crack on the corner glue it and wont even notice it $150 very rare

gts-t boot no spoiler or lock. dark blue $20 will need a respray

r32 rb20 stock afm $100

hicas lock bar $50 fit most cars

bride brix 2 (i think) $600 can come with r31 rail.

Redback highflow cat $100. Used condition.

watanabes 15x7+27 all around ok tread. 4x114.3 slight bend in 1 100% useable

r32 white boot with gts wing perfect condition brand new paint $200.

Idale air valve control rb20 $50

Rb20 butterfly with tps $80

Rb20 tps $40

Rda r32 slotted rotors front pair only used for 20 days. Still have box pretty new.$180

Rb25 cas $20

rb25 coil pack cover $20

Rb25 90 degree elbow before fmic piping with bov. $50

Rb20 intake plenuim $50

Type r gauges and senders. All wiring all work. $150 the lot..

pickup hoppers crossing victoria.

can post most items anywhere in australia if you pay.

20120414_114140.jpg

20120414_114133.jpg

Wing2.jpg

Wing.jpg

post-47637-1290249528_thumb.jpg

FILE0009.jpg

FILE0003.jpg

2011-10-21161015.jpg

2011-02-08173417.jpg

2011-02-08173406.jpg

rb20forsale002.jpg

post-47637-0-56781000-1337341263_thumb.jpg

post-47637-0-91859700-1337341281_thumb.jpg

post-47637-0-73921100-1337341299_thumb.jpg

post-47637-0-88252100-1337341317_thumb.jpg

r32 dark blue boot::::needs respray $30

20120519_165022.jpg

bride/recaro fixed seat adapter $40

20120519_164910.jpg

sr20/s13 front pipe flex gktech brand $50

20120519_164951.jpg

pair of rims 17x7+47 black look pretty good.

20120511_172506.jpg

4x114.3 anz rims gutter rash on all average condition all passed rwc. really good tread $350...spent a lot on tyres.

20120330_161315.jpg

r32 sunroof spoiler $150

post-47637-1290249528_thumb.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Huh, wonder why it blew then. I never really beat on the car THAT hard lol I dailyed it and the turbo blew after 6 months
    • That's odd, it works fine here. Try loading it on a different device or browser? It's Jack Phillips JDM, a Skyline wrecker in Victoria. Not the cheapest, but I have found them helpful to find obscure parts in AU. https://jpjdm.com/shop/index.php
    • Yeah. I second all of the above. The only way to see that sort of voltage is if something is generating it as a side effect of being f**ked up. The other thing you could do would be to put a load onto that 30V terminal, something like a brakelamp globe. See if it pulls the voltage away comepletely or if some or all of it stays there while loaded. Will give you something of an idea about how much danger it could cause.
    • I would say, you've got one hell of an underlying issue there. You're saying, coils were fully unplugged, and the fuse to that circuit was unplugged, and you measured 30v? Either something is giving you some WILD EMI, and that's an induced voltage, OR something is managing to backfeed, AND that something has problems. It could be something like the ECU if it takes power from there, and also gets power from another source IF there's an internal issue in the ECU. The way to check would be pull that fuse, unplug the coils, and then probe the ECU pins. However it could be something else doing it. Additionally, if it is something wired in, and that something is pulsing, IE a PWM circuit and it's an inductive load and doesnt have proper flyback protection, that would also do it. A possibility would be if you have something like a PWM fuel pump, it might be giving flyback voltages (dangerous to stuff!). I'd put the circuit back into its "broken" state, confirm the weird voltage is back, and then one by one unplug devices until that voltage disappears. That's a quick way to find an associated device. Otherwise I'd need to look at the wiring diagrams, and then understand any electrical mods done.   But you really should not be seeing the above issue, and really, it's indicating something is failing, and possibly why the fuse blew to begin with.
×
×
  • Create New...