Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Thought I should drop by and say hi. I have been meaning to for a while but I was waiting for the new ride to be confirmed.

My brother and I have just bought ourselves a DR30 Skyline RSX with the sole intention of racing it and using it as a tool to promote my little online motorsport business AUTOsports Australia.

Some of you might know this car already so if there is anyone that can give us any information on it that would be greatly apppreciated. As we have also never modified one of these any advice woulld be greatly appreciated. We are planning to run the car in Improved Production because we really want to be competitive and keep the car as close the Group A looking as we can! Maybe one day when we have money to blow we'll go and do something crazy in Time Attack with a different car...

On a different note we also have a Prince Skyline GT (my fathers) that is built for group Nb historics. New engine has been a nightmare so hasn't been on track for a number of years but should hopefullly see the track again in 2012.

Back to the DR30. We're going to source S13 uprights and front hubs, plus LCA's so we can run lots of camber and then also run S13 spec coilovers (which I have read about on here) and front brakes although will probably have to get some custom rear brakes done. Any thoughts on this?

ANyway enjoy the pics. Will get more up here soon.

Cheers

post-93639-0-01598500-1337387694_thumb.jpg

post-93639-0-14197000-1337387800_thumb.jpg

post-93639-0-61207700-1337387879_thumb.jpg

post-93639-0-58837100-1337388016_thumb.jpg

Welcome Peter...

Can't wait to see the car (Prince GT) out on the track. We (The Register :action-smiley-069: ) are all very much looking forward to it.

Beechworth was such a long time ago although we did catch up with your folks at Lithgow.

Congrats on the DR30 also. Probably going to be my next car as well - such a great car.

Will look forward to the build updates with the DR...

Cheers

Jason

  On 24/05/2012 at 6:40 AM, ydr030 said:

Think old mates getting confused by tbe dry sump one getting around queensland. Similar color but different car.

This is my old built DR that is now back in Qld that the other poster may be referring too.

stuff057xb5.jpg

  • 4 weeks later...

Hey guys,

Well I got the interior stripped out and sold and hoping this weekend will get some dry ice in there to help get the sound deadener out. Still tossing up about the cage... looks like I'll be going steel though. Have spoken to Bonds about getting a kit to weld in myself although not sure yet. Been a little while since I rigged anything but might just do a bit of practice before jump onto anything serious like a roll cage. The price difference is huge, but then again the hours spent installing one will probably have me change my mind at the end of it all! Can't believe how much stuff came out of the interior though, and the amount of 80s heavy electronics and boxes... still more to come but the bulk of it is gone.

Check out more of the build at http://autosports.com.au/index.php/news-a-projects/17-project-dr30

dr30-6.jpg

dr30-5.jpg

  • 2 months later...

Okay so it's been a while so time for some updates. Work has been crazy and I've been concentrating on building the biz rather than the car but we've completely stripped out the sound deadener using dry ice and a timber mallet. The bets move even. The stuff literally shatters. All up for 16kg out of the passenger compartment and boot. Have spoken to some guys regarding a basic 6 point bolt in cage which should be the next step. With a bit of luck next month will see the cage, race seat, steering wheel, etc all done, so the inside will be pretty much ready to go. Have also lined up wheel, brakes and suspension so hopefully by the end of the year we'll get an initial test session in.

post-93639-0-42862900-1347608834_thumb.jpg

post-93639-0-80138700-1347608855_thumb.jpg

  • 3 weeks later...

It's been a while since I have worked on the car but we're coming up to some nice updates. I spoke to the guys at AGI Precision Engineering and without a doubt these guys will be building the cage. Not only are they really well priced but the level of professionalism is second to none. It's a nice change to see such a spotless workshop - The guy was an engineer/mechanic at Williams F1 so would sort of expect it. Anyway it will be a nice 6 point weld in cage with hopefully a few extra features to add a bit more rigidity. If you want a cage tell them Peter from AUTOsports sent you! They also do a huge range of bolt in half and full cages fully CAMS compliant. Anyway, enough of that.

So the car should be going in there in about a fortnight and then after that the fun can start. The cage is the main part I couldn't do so as soon as it's back it will be full steam ahead.

Picked up these little AP beauties. Was originally going to run with the D2 calipers I had but they don't quite clear the wheels I want to run. By the way the D2 6 spot calipers are for sale. $400 no offers.

ap-caliper.jpg

d2-brakes.jpg

  • 5 weeks later...

Hey guys thought I'd post this in here.

Have the following for sale:

1. Complete wiring harness - $100 - Great condition

2. Standard FJ20ET computer - $100

3. Fully working air conditioning (degassed) - $100

4. Standard suspension struts - $80

5. Front brakes (discs and callipers) - $50

Before work commences on the cage we'll be fully rewiring the car and stripping at least another 30kg in wiring out and having a Adaptronic computer installed (which will also mean removing a lot of the pollution gear - another 5kg). All up I think we've removed in the region of 100kg out of the car.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you put an aftermarket oil pressure gauge on and verified your oil pressure?   Noise being on the block, on exhaust side, how high up the block does it seem to be? It could be the VCT system getting cranky, especially if it's mainly at idle, and when warm, as that'll be your lowest point for oil pressure. Could be showing that oil passages / VCT solenoid are blocking.
    • Well, hydraulic lifters will get noisy if they are dirty/fouled in some way, and exactly how that manifests will depend on exactly what schmutz is where. There is a procedure on here somewhere for dismantling and soaking/cleaning them. Replacing them with new is about 50% of the work and about 5% of the money!
    • Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy this is is a hydraulic lifter engine. Yea right i did not realise the lifters were supposed to be compressible while installed. I could push them down but i had to lean almost my while body weight on them.  I have never heard of a lifter/ lifters ticking only at hot idle and getting worse the hotter it gets. I have owned a few jdm cars with noisy lifters. This noise is slightly more subtle, it is more of a sharp gentle metalic tic than the solid and more loud tapping I've heard on lifters. I have used a metal rod, alloy tube, hose and stethoscope and could not find the source of the tick. But it appears to be loudest on the actual engine block behind the exhaust cam gear and next to the oil filter. I had mate (40 year old mechanic) go over it with me and he couldn't find it either..  Could it be a cam seal issue of some sort?  Cheers  
    • This seems problematic and unlikely at the same time. Vanilla RB2Xs have hydraulic lifters. They do have "zero" clearance, but only when running with oil pressure inside them. When not running, you should be able to compress them and obtain heaps of clearance. RB26s and Neos have solid lifters. They should have ~0.3mm and ~0.5mm on the inlet and exhaust respectively. If they have zero clearance then bad things are happening. With nothing else being wrong, it would mean that the valves would be held slightly (ever so slightly) open when they are supposed to be closed and it should have all sorts of problems when running, caused by leakage in/out through the valves. Or, zero clearance can indicate severe valve seat recession. None of it is good. Have you used a piece of hose as a stethoscope to try to localise the noise?  
×
×
  • Create New...