Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

300kw-320rwkw easy??? spent about 25k on performance parts an labour to get 300kw atw. Prob cheaper if u find a happy dyno or dont tie the car down real tight to allow it to ride up, from wot i've been told it can make the exact same dyno read about 50-80hp different, depending on how u strap it down. As for the longivity of an engine's life (built or unopened) people usually only seem to quote a certain amount of years/months which isnt really informative, amount of track time, km since rebuilt, %of time driving the car spirited (or over 5-6k rpm) would be more informaitive. as a car that only does 3000km a year an 1 track day, an gets babied, is a lot different to a car that does 20,000km a year a 4 or 5 trackdays a year an gets thrashed every time it gets drivin.

I'll point at Simon and leave it at that ;)

  • Replies 60
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

300kw-320rwkw easy??? spent about 25k on performance parts an labour to get 300kw atw. Prob cheaper if u find a happy dyno or dont tie the car down real tight to allow it to ride up, from wot i've been told it can make the exact same dyno read about 50-80hp different, depending on how u strap it down. As for the longivity of an engine's life (built or unopened) people usually only seem to quote a certain amount of years/months which isnt really informative, amount of track time, km since rebuilt, %of time driving the car spirited (or over 5-6k rpm) would be more informaitive. as a car that only does 3000km a year an 1 track day, an gets babied, is a lot different to a car that does 20,000km a year a 4 or 5 trackdays a year an gets thrashed every time it gets drivin.

300kw-320rwkw easy??? spent about 25k on performance parts an labour to get 300kw atw. Prob cheaper if u find a happy dyno or dont tie the car down real tight to allow it to ride up, from wot i've been told it can make the exact same dyno read about 50-80hp different, depending on how u strap it down. As for the longivity of an engine's life (built or unopened) people usually only seem to quote a certain amount of years/months which isnt really informative, amount of track time, km since rebuilt, %of time driving the car spirited (or over 5-6k rpm) would be more informaitive. as a car that only does 3000km a year an 1 track day, an gets babied, is a lot different to a car that does 20,000km a year a 4 or 5 trackdays a year an gets thrashed every time it gets drivin.

Give me 25k and ill build you a 500kw+ engine lol, also you'd be lucky to gain 15hp by letting it ride on the top of the rollers, easier to put the air temp sensor in hot water and gain 30kw =)

Give me 25k and ill build you a 500kw+ engine lol, also you'd be lucky to gain 15hp by letting it ride on the top of the rollers, easier to put the air temp sensor in hot water and gain 30kw =)

With warranty? Wheres your shop, I want this 25k 500kw motor

I'd say VQ35HR, then TT (with 2 x 2860).

It will take 50kg out of the front of the car, have more power and torque and last longer. But you'll have to build it first.

I don't see much between a Neo and a RB26 for power/longevity. I'd take a stock NEO for the money with GT30 (0.86) ~280rwkw easy. Once you get over 200rwkw/tonne you're getting into serious grip/chassis issues.

what chassis issues would be ran into? for example a gts4 with a rb26 making 350 atw

The fact that he can run a very reliable and safe 330rwkw+ all day every day with nothing but injectors, fuel pump, exhaust, computer and a set of turbos or a single on it where as the Neo would be a ticking time bomb at those power levels on an unopened motor..

so we're clear here , what do you think the big difference is between the two internally , apart from the piston itself? .

If i were going to build an engine from scratch , i would start with a 'rips' 3 litre bottom end , and put a 26 head on it .

But i have to ask, do you have a car to put it in? , if the answer is no , don't bother with anything engine wise until you have one, there's no point having 400rwk if the rest of the car is dead stock , there is no way you would be able to use the power anywhere . If you want to spend your money wisely , put it in the bank , leave it there until you can legally drive the car you want to . If you still want the same car then , there will always be a few for sale somewhere , you may be lucky and find one with all the hard work already done.

what about a 300zx motor forged with heavy porting and a couple of gt28's bolted on with 25psi with E85, big cams etc...

or an ls1 with twin turbo and supercharger :)

Edited by SliverS2

what chassis issues would be ran into? for example a gts4 with a rb26 making 350 atw

http://www.motoiq.com/magazine_articles/id/2396/team-america-world-time-attack--ark-designs-bnr32-skyline-gt-r-intro-part-1.aspx

3 parts, multiple pages each.

This car has nothing to do with me. But there has been VQ put into r-chassis before. A friend is putting a VQ30DET into an S15 at the moment (the parts are pretty cheap for the HP).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They work on really anything track related now. They do my mates r35 gtr and it's a weapon of a car.
    • I use the penrite 600f in my cars and have had no issues even at Townsville v8s when I drove that but I bled fluid end of day for just in case. Good value and a about 38-40 on sale. Use castrol srf on the supercars and no need to Bleed brakes over a race weekend. Do the 1000km with no issues. Over 120 a bottle I seen at repco. A quality brake pad is always a good starting point the ebc stuff I've seen let go after 2 sessions with heavier cars. I'd be going to a decent track pad and maybe those porsche air guides on the control arm to help with some air over the rotor. Helps on 86/brz with stock callipers.  
    • yeah I've never understood that either.... And to answer an earlier question, I write the date on open bottles and throw them if more than 12 months old (which they almost always are, because I don't need to bleed them unless I'm changing lines/calipers etc in between)
    • Nah, the one that hit the boot was a big steel locker, around 6 foot height, 4 foot wide and 2 foot deep, empty it weighs about 15kg and had about that amount of stuff in it The photo didn't give a good representation of the actual damage, the large ding on the passenger side was about a inch deep, the one on the driver was about 1/2 inch deep, right on the curve, where the inner boot frame doesn't let you get behind it with a dolly Basically the same issue with getting behind the damage on the centre of the boot We could have filled it all with bog, but my OCD would be triggered every time I looked at it, knowing what hides beneath  As for the locker, I did get the shits with it and put it in the scap metal bin, but, I pulled it out and it is now sitting in the garage at home full of car servicing stuff, cleaning gear and random tools, it's going to pay for it's indiscretions
    • Whilst I typically don't cheap out on things, if I can save some money, like $1000, on a clean straight panel, that gives me $1000 to spend on other stuff, basically free money really 🤔 🤣
×
×
  • Create New...