Jump to content
SAU Community

New To Sau

ls128

By ls128,
in New South Wales

 Share

Recommended Posts

ls128 Collaborator

ls128

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey,

Long time lurker here on SAU...

Finally picked up my own Skyline yesterday, a black R32 GTR.

Will have picks soon, need to find some daylight!

Just a question out of curiousity..

It has HKS coilovers, I am looking at purchasing a coilover wrench to adjust them.

To lower it, do I need to take the coilovers out or can it be done from the engine bay/boot?

Pretty new to coilovers usually only had springs/shocks in previous cars!

Thanks

post-81745-0-61279400-1337515329_thumb.jpg

post-81745-0-12332200-1337515339_thumb.jpg

post-81745-0-51163600-1337515468_thumb.jpg

Edited by ls128
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/400642-new-to-sau/
Share on other sites
oweban Grand Master

oweban

Posted
Posted

So they aren't just adjustable from the strut top (i.e engine bay or boot?)

I don't really have the knowledge to take coilovers out without f###ing something up!!!

I forgot to mention theyre HKS Coilovers

from the top, the adjustments will be just to dampener settings.

Taking the coilys out is surprisingly easy; I surprised myself when I swapped mine over that I didn't f**k it up :P Basically you jack the corner up and put it on stands, take the wheel off, and there's one big bolt that holds the bottom of the coilover to the axle, and then the three bolts in the engine bay, and bam out it comes :) but I can understand the hesitation, definitely. Shit if you weren't in the Shire I'd come take a look; a bit far to go after work and I get busy on the weekends going down to the gong heh

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/400642-new-to-sau/#findComment-6365139
Share on other sites
ls128 Collaborator

ls128

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

from the top, the adjustments will be just to dampener settings.

Taking the coilys out is surprisingly easy; I surprised myself when I swapped mine over that I didn't f**k it up :P Basically you jack the corner up and put it on stands, take the wheel off, and there's one big bolt that holds the bottom of the coilover to the axle, and then the three bolts in the engine bay, and bam out it comes :) but I can understand the hesitation, definitely. Shit if you weren't in the Shire I'd come take a look; a bit far to go after work and I get busy on the weekends going down to the gong heh

Ah true - I thought so.

So it's not possible to take the wheel off and adjust from there?

I have a few mates who are mechanics, but I don't wanna go to low and screw my handling!

Also after a R32 Gtr front grill - colour doesn't matter, I can paint it. Looked through parts for sale only found one, PM'd him but no reply.

Edited by ls128
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/400642-new-to-sau/#findComment-6365225
Share on other sites
oweban Grand Master

oweban

Posted
Posted

Hmm, trying to remember if it can be done, probably? Someone else could probably give a 100% answer on that. But I think it should be able to be done :) As long as you get the spanners to undo the locking rings, it's worth a shot, just make sure you measure how much further you move it so that you can do it to the other side the same.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/400642-new-to-sau/#findComment-6365441
Share on other sites
ls128 Collaborator

ls128

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hmm, trying to remember if it can be done, probably? Someone else could probably give a 100% answer on that. But I think it should be able to be done :) As long as you get the spanners to undo the locking rings, it's worth a shot, just make sure you measure how much further you move it so that you can do it to the other side the same.

Alright thanks mate.

Yeah, looking on ebay for a C spanner...I haven't been able to find one locally (not that I have put heaps of effort into looking)

I haven't actually properly looked at the coilovers yet, do they usually have the model visible with the wheel on? Or is it a matter of removing the wheels and getting right into the wheel well to know what model of HKS coilovers they are..

Yeah, I really just want to see how low down it does go haha

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/400642-new-to-sau/#findComment-6365808
Share on other sites
  • 1 year later...
darksky34 Mentor

darksky34

Posted
Posted

Alright thanks mate.

Yeah, looking on ebay for a C spanner...I haven't been able to find one locally (not that I have put heaps of effort into looking)

I haven't actually properly looked at the coilovers yet, do they usually have the model visible with the wheel on? Or is it a matter of removing the wheels and getting right into the wheel well to know what model of HKS coilovers they are..

Yeah, I really just want to see how low down it does go haha

some coilovers are easily identifiable by sight (Ohlins, Bilsteins etc) but for most Jap coils, they have a model and then variations: Cusco Zero 1,2, 2e, 2r etc etc.

Best if you get us pics of your coilovers, but to do that you'd need to take the wheel off to get a decent pic anyway, so you might just find the model on!

also - Owen, are you serious that's all it takes to remove a damper?!?!?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/400642-new-to-sau/#findComment-6878672
Share on other sites
34GeeTeeTee Grand Master

34GeeTeeTee

Posted
Posted

Alright thanks mate.

Yeah, looking on ebay for a C spanner...I haven't been able to find one locally (not that I have put heaps of effort into looking)

I haven't actually properly looked at the coilovers yet, do they usually have the model visible with the wheel on? Or is it a matter of removing the wheels and getting right into the wheel well to know what model of HKS coilovers they are..

Yeah, I really just want to see how low down it does go haha

Remember if you go low the car becomes a defect magnet and it will also handle worse!

If you change height in any way make sure you get an alignment!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/400642-new-to-sau/#findComment-6878675
Share on other sites
ls128 Collaborator

ls128

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Remember if you go low the car becomes a defect magnet and it will also handle worse!

If you change height in any way make sure you get an alignment!

Oh how much i've learnt since this post last year!

Worked out they are HKS Hyper-D.

The thread on the coilovers is rusted so cant be lowered without taking the coilover out of the car, which is well effort :)

I've put up a build thread in the projects section!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/400642-new-to-sau/#findComment-6879746
Share on other sites
34GeeTeeTee Grand Master

34GeeTeeTee

Posted
Posted

Oh how much i've learnt since this post last year!

Worked out they are HKS Hyper-D.

The thread on the coilovers is rusted so cant be lowered without taking the coilover out of the car, which is well effort :)

I've put up a build thread in the projects section!!

Good work :yes: I love a good build thread :woot:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/400642-new-to-sau/#findComment-6879786
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yucky. Things haven't gotten any better though. Now you have Emerson and Honeywell pushing these massive DCS/Scada things with proprietary hardware. They're not a PLC, they're not a computer, they're a...distibuted PLCish/DCSish monster of thing, that only they can program because they make the barriers to entry for anyone else so fricking high. And their developers are all located in the third/developing world (and India, in case anyone does not include that place in that category) and there are terrible failings of the ESl variety, of the care and common sense variety, and f**king forget about Functional Safety. Not a one of them has any idea what it means to comply with an IEC 615xx series standard.
    • niZmO_Man
      Is r33 gtr steering wheel the same as the gtst?

      By niZmO_Man · Posted

      oi (you're right though)
    • pogman
      Low oil pressure after WOT

      By pogman · Posted

      All of the ECU grounds are to the chassis, the IGN grounds are to the cylinder head and i believe all the OEM body harness are left in original locations, im trying to work out if i can tell if the sensor voltage itself is losing any power to it from the very low ECU voltage. But yeah a manual pressure gauge will help in picking which path to actually chase. Also please dont bully my wiring plan i never designed it to be universally understood hopefully it still can make sense to you, im a wiring virgin.  1 thing i have just noticed the pressure sensor in question relays both pressure and temperature, the temperature reading holds nice and steady despite the low ecu voltage but the pressure reading is the one that jumps around alot so maybe it is really a pressure issue? wiring plan.xlsx
    • Yeetus
      RB25DET Solid lifter conversion

      By Yeetus · Posted

      Gday, Due to not finding much up to date info on this topic I thought I'd make a thread to get peoples latest opinions/recommendations. Background info -  I've got a S1.5 R33 GTST as a fun project car, mainly for street use and occasional drag strip, apart from all the cosmetic things I'll be doing a full rebuild of the engine with forged internals. Since it'll be getting new cams (kelford) and springs to match I thought I might as well get new lifters and valves while I'm at it, the dash says 160k KMs but the engine seems pretty tired, compression measures about 130psi across all cylinders so I'd like to freshen everything up. This is where I'm tempted to just fork out the extra and go solid lifters while it's all apart, aiming for 400-450kw atw with a flex tune. Assuming all supporting mods (oiling, fuel and all bolt ons) with a lightly ported head and turbo to match (yet to make a decision possibly gtx3582r or similar from Hypergear) I've seen the Tomei kits with just the buckets getting around, Supertech sells most things - Supertech High Performance Cam Followers | Trusted Racing Cam Followers Questions -  Has anyone found the Hydraulic lifters to limit them at this power level? Is it usually found that you can just clean the stock lifters and find they work fine?  Does going solid lifters save any headaches/issues with hydraulic lifters in the future? Any recommendations on other things that will need to be replaced, I know I'll need to get the solid profile cams but can you use the same type of valves and springs/retainers and is it recommended to change the guides and stem seals?    Summary -  Basically looking for pros/cons and wanna know if I'll actually need the extra RPMs from solid lifters or it'll just be bragging rights to say it ReVs OvEr 8000 Cheers
    • MBS206
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Ha ha ha, this stuff they had was installing Toshiba PLCs that were made some time in the 1990s, and they were replacing GEM80 PLCs. To let those two talk (staged upgrade along a ~1.2km long building that was split into 4 sections), was a bunch of WinXP machines running Java gateways... There was no way to put something like ProfiSafe in... Most of the HMI machines were WinXP, with Java program, with a custom button board emulating a keyboard... About the only buttons in the operator stations that went direct to the PLCs was the eStop. There was some interesting design stuff in that place...
×
×
  • Create New...