Jump to content
SAU Community

My Bayside Blue R34 Vspec Gtr - Finally Detailed


Recommended Posts

Hi Everyone,

I love detailing. Just finished the process on my R34 Vspec GTR and thought i'd share the results.

Took me 12.5 hours in total over a 2 day period, done with my DA polisher + Lake Country pads and microfibre towels.

As a high level summary, the items i used in order are -

1) Meguiars Nxt Generation car wash (With Meguiars microfibre pad and chamois)

2) Meguiars smooth surface clay bar kit

3) Rubber masking with 3M blue tape and newspaper over windows, wheels - etc

4) Meguiars Ultimate Compound (Lake Country Wool pad, followed by orange foam pad)

5) 2000 / 3000 grit wet sand (focusing on areas needing the attention)

6) Mothers Powerball mini with Meguiars Ultimate Compound on hard to reach areas

7) Meguiars Ultimate Polish (With Lake Country White foam pad)

8) Meguiars Ultimate Liquid Wax (With Lake Country blue foam pad)

9) Meguiars Plastx with Mothers Powerball mini on all lights

10) Autosol metal polish with another Mothers Powerball mini for exhaust

10) Meguiars Nxt Generation car wash (With Meguiars microfibre pad and chamois)

11) Polish residue removal with a tooth brush and artists brush)

Im no pro, but I do recommend the Meguiars 'Ultimate' line, i've ended up with the smooth as glass swirl free finish I desired. I've also used the Menzerna Fast Gloss line previously with similar successful results. It all depends how much time and patience you have to stand there jeweling the paint.

For me, next its on to the rubber restoration piece and glass polishing. Then its the engine bay and interior.

Cant wait to put her vspec front diffuser back on, the car looks so much more agressive with it. I've just had it refinished in the original satin black. Brand new GTR badges are also on the way.

After the detailing proess, I took some close up photos of the common wear and tear areas to share.

Enjoy.

img39681024x683.jpg

img40001024x683.jpg

img40101024x683.jpg

img40491024x683.jpg

img40741024x683.jpg

img41111024x683.jpg

img41211024x683.jpg

img41531024x683.jpg

img41541024x683.jpg

img41551024x683.jpg

img41721024x683.jpg

img41741024x683.jpg

img41791024x683.jpg

img41841024x683.jpg

img42001024x683.jpg

img41811024x683.jpg

img42121024x683.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 107
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

How your arms and shoulders feeling sore . hehe

Looks killer 12hrs all up is amazing work , just wondering if you alchohol prep between stages with FI light cleanse

I find meguiares residue is whiter and harder to remove than most products .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looking good mate, well done!!

I was thinking of posting up some pics of the detail on my car, got some good before and afters, although I cannot take credit for any of the work ha..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

How your arms and shoulders feeling sore . hehe Looks killer 12hrs all up is amazing work , just wondering if you alchohol prep between stages with FI light cleanse I find meguiares residue is whiter and harder to remove than most products .

Thanks mate.

Buffers get heavier the longer you hold them dont they.

You are right about the dust residue, mainly with the Meguiars compound - it dusts alot harder than Menzerna.

I tape up all the holes, gaps and rubbers on the body to simplify the cleaning of the dust. And pick up as much of it as I can with Microfibre towels as I go through the process. I also ensure I also dont use too much product on the pads, as obviously only a small portion of it bonds to the paint, the rest is just wasted and also very hard to remove.

Simple trick - I occasionally spray a light mist of either Meguiars Quick Detailer or Mothers Showtime on the buffing pad to keep it slightly wet and prevent dusting.

Edited by iwanta34gtr
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looking good mate, well done!! I was thinking of posting up some pics of the detail on my car, got some good before and afters, although I cannot take credit for any of the work ha..

Thanks mate. Definately post up some pics in a thread if you get a chance, I'd love to see them.

I will post more pics in this thread as I complete detailing each part.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looks imaculate mate great outcome !

Quick question, how much did all the detailing components set you back roughly?? Exterior detailing is not one of my strong passions as it tests my patience abit too much for my liking lol

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looks imaculate mate great outcome !

Quick question, how much did all the detailing components set you back roughly?? Exterior detailing is not one of my strong passions as it tests my patience abit too much for my liking lol

Thanks mate. Hard to put a dollar figure on the products, it depends what size bottles you get - etc.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi All,

Part 2.

- Glass polished and application of brand new genuine Nissan stickers

- Restoration of all rear diffuser brackets

Glass polishing was performed with Rain-X Xtreme Clean, followed by a standard application of Rain-X Original. Application and removal of both products was done using microfibre towels.

Also applied brand new genuine Nissan rear quarter and rear window stickers I ordered directly from Nissan. Exact sticker placement measurements were obtained from Ant in this thread - http://www.skylinesa...v-cut-security/ (Thanks again mate).

Diffuser brackets were restored using 800 / 1200 / 2000 grit wet and dry, followed by 5 light coats of generic flat black high temperature paint. Also refinished the black covers which sit on the bottom of the number plate brackets.

Cheers.

img42701024x683.jpg

img42971024x683.jpg

img42951024x683.jpg

img4328closer1024x683.jpg

Edited by iwanta34gtr
Link to comment
Share on other sites

How much do u charge :)

Seriously great detailing!

I have the autoglym range for my car but never polished the windows...I will do this for sure!

What are tour Diffusers made of, carbon?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

How much do u charge :)

Seriously great detailing!

I have the autoglym range for my car but never polished the windows...I will do this for sure!

What are tour Diffusers made of, carbon?

Hi mate, cheers for the kind words.

Yep, rear diffuser is made of a massive piece of dry carbon.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think the most effort I've put into cleaning my car was 30mins.

Now I never wash anything, cars are for driving haha.

Car looks mint man, nice.

Thanks mate, will post up some more pics as I complete the rest.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The two diagrams are equivalent. The R32 one is just one sheet out of about 3 showing everything in the whole car all at once. And without knowing the functionality that occurs in the modules, they are both equally opaque.
    • 8v - 2.48ms 9v - 2.15ms 10v - 1.74ms 11v - 1.41ms 12v - 1.15ms 13v - 0.99ms 14v - 0.89ms 15v - 0.82ms 16v - 0.81ms I'm running these values on my RB20 Neo with 570cc Denso R35 stock jets and it's great. Also bought a set for my Legnum VR4, love these injectors!
    • Thanks for your reply,  Those blue/green wires running to the actuator aren't attached to anything, so I'm not sure how the central locking is still working. I will have to take a good look tomorrow, I don't have the car with me. After googling it seems like a pretty common aftermarket actuator which even uses the same green/blue wires the immobiliser required. i'll test everything tomorrow and if it's working i'll melt the solder, strip it, resolder and neaten it all up with some heat shrink. I don't have to understand it if it works hahaha I just don't want a fire/ short circuit. That R32 diagram looks more like a continuity chart? Can you make sense of this form the R34 manual? 10V is probably due to very flat battery, i'll recheck as well tomorrow, I did have to jump start it haha. Thanks again!  
    • So, COM doesn't mean comms. It means common. What common itself means will depend on the type of device. For a two directional actuator (ie, one that can push and pull on the same output rod) then the common will typically just be the earth connection. There will be at least 2 other wires. If you put 12V on one of the other wires, then the actuator will push. On the other 12V wire, it will pull. Can't quite make out what is going on with the wiring of your actuator. It appears to have several wires at the actuator plug, but there only appears to be 2 wires where its loom approaches the door control module, with at least one of the others cut off. I don't know these actuators off by heart. I'd have to look at a wiring diagram for one before knowing what the wires were about, and that's despite me having to replace one in my car not all that long ago. Just not interesting enough to have dedicated memory set aside for trivia like that any more. That actuator is an aftermarket one, not the original one, which probably died and was replaced. That might require some sort of bodge job on wiring to make it work. Although nothing should justify the bodginess of the bodge job done. As to the soldering job on the door module's loom plug. Ahhahhahaha. Yes, very nasty. Again, I cant tell you what any of those wires do. You'd need to study the R34 wiring diagram (if you can find one that shows the door module). I don't think I have any. I'd have to study the R32 diagram to start to understand what mine is doing, and again, even though I've had a problem with mine for the last 25 years (where it locks the passenger door when the driver's window reaches top or bottom of travel) I'm just not interested enough to try to to work it out. So long as it's not burning down, it's fine with me. Here's the R32 GTR diagram, which, confusingly, has rear door lock actuators and window motors on it!! As you can see, unless you understand the functions of the door lock timer and the power window amplifier, you'll never be able to work out how it works just from the diagram. I don't imagine that the R34 one is any better. Hopefully an R34 aware bod can help. FWIW, the two wires that are cut and joined look like they are both power supply - so hopefully it is not fatal to join them. The 10V you measured on the cut off free end of one of them is concerning. You'd expect 12V, and it might be the reason for the bodge job joining them together.
×
×
  • Create New...