Help... Installed My Ts2Cd With Recommended Bearing And Sleeve And Clutch Doesnt Work..

[Mitsuboost30]

So as title states. I just recently installed my TS2CD OS Giken. with the recommended sleeve and bearing

Release bearing : Nissan 30502-14601. Release sleeve : Nissan 30501-U0200

Now I went to pull the car out of the garage and moved about 2 inches with the clutch out and the car in gear.

Also i can put the transmission in gear with the car on and the clutch NOT depressed. basically feels like the car is stuck in neutral.

what would you guys recommend?

Slave was bled properly and clutch pedal has right feel to it.

stuck and would like to try some things before i pull the transmission and put a smaller sleeve on.

[tricstar]

sounds like clutch is constantly depressed (a bit like you if you have to pull the box out again o-

try the adjustment at the top of the pedal, but I wouldn't think it would that much adjustment, but worth a try before you pull the box again..

could be wrong length sleeve?

[Mitsuboost30]

That is going to be my first attempt when i get some time. The clutch pedal adjustment. I also had the same thought that it couldnt be that much adjustment to make that big of a difference to the clutch itself.

And yes im coming to the conclusion that the clutch sleeve OS Giken has listed on their site is infact to big. Which inturn keeps the pressure plate in a neutral state...

Sigh....

Anyone running this clutch? what sleeve size are you running?

The sleeve OS recommended was the 16mm

I think im going to try the 12mm or 14mm... any suggestions?

if anyone will run into the same problem and comes across this thread hear are bearing sizes ad part#

30501-A3800 12mm, 30501-N1601 14mm, 30501-U0200 16mm, 30501-S0200 18mm, 30501-B6000 20mm, 30501-S0160 22mm, 30501-K0404 24mm, 30501-K0510 26mm, 30501-N1600 28mm, 30501-N8400 30mm

[mico]

i didnt know they came with a sleeve ? my instructions just said to trim 10mm off (i think) the standard.

[tricstar]

if its only 4mm, it might be at the end of its adjustment but, I would think you should be able to get it to engage with the pedal adjusted to the max and foot to the floor, if not its more than that..

another option; instead of taking box out etc get a threaded rod for your slave, not sure who does them.

but my car has one because the previous owner had alot of trouble getting an OSGiken triple plate ( the name escapes me atm) to work properly, so with the threaded rod you can easily move where the folk sits..

Also get someone to sit in the car and push the clutch peddle while you watch the slave under the car to make sure you are getting enough travel in the folk..

clutchs??

[Dobz]

Slave cylinder has been bottomed out and it's disengaging the clutch. The rod needs to be shorter and just how much shorter will become clear once you pull the slave cylinder off which won't be easy seeing as it's under pressure from the clutch.

Once you get it off push the cylinder with the rod in up against the clutch fork and see how far out the slaves bolt holes are out compared to the ones on the box, that'll give you a rough idea of how much shorter the rod needs to be.

[kspots08]

this problem sounds all to familiar. i had this problem with my ts2cd. clutch would not engage properly. it ended up being the sleeve and bearing combo.

i finally got the right combo after pulling the box in and out 3 times. i wish i could tell you the part numbers but i forgot. however the clutch is no longer in

the car so if i find the sleeve and bearing floating around the garage ill get the part numbers.

[Mitsuboost30]

Karl that would be awesone uf you ccould do that i would really appriciate it.

Dobz I did notice there seems to be more than ussual presure on the slave cylinder.

[Mitsuboost30]

Still looking for proper sleeve size.

[mico]

i took 10mm off the std one.

[Mitsuboost30]

So standard is 26mm correct?

I have a 16mm in now. and no luck

im leaning towards a 12mm.

gonna give it alil till i can get some kind of confirmation from someone.

[Mitsuboost30]

After doing alittle research on part numbers.

Knowing that these numbers posted and recomended are old.

It seams that the sleeve 30501-U0200 has been superceded by part number 30501-A6801 AND that has been superceded by part number 30501-S0284.

I was sent 30501-S0284 and after research it is an 18mm sleeve.. ?!?!?!?!?

How and why would a 16mm sleeve be replace by an 18mm sleeve.

Well I ordered a 14mm sleeve.

30501-N1604

will report back when i get it installed to see if it fixed me issue.

[ima_slap_joO]

Haha this happened to me cos the silly mechanic put a washer under the clutch pivot ball, i diddnt want to drop the box again so i just shaved a bit off the slave cylender rod, worked fine, released the clutch.

Slave cylinder has been bottomed out and it's disengaging the clutch. The rod needs to be shorter and just how much shorter will become clear once you pull the slave cylinder off which won't be easy seeing as it's under pressure from the clutch.

Once you get it off push the cylinder with the rod in up against the clutch fork and see how far out the slaves bolt holes are out compared to the ones on the box, that'll give you a rough idea of how much shorter the rod needs to be.

[Mitsuboost30]

Well since this seems to be the easiest solution i will attempt this first. I would rather try this than take the box off

[Turbz_13]

I'm having the exact same issue with a ts2b clutch. The carrier recommended was a 20mm. We didn't put the box back on cause it was starting to compress the diaphragm springs. Luckily I have 2 shorter carriers we're going to try out. A 15mm and the one I got with the clutch which was machined down to 8mm!

[cobrAA]

so if it doesnt disengage, the rod on the slave have to be shorter? I thought it was the opposite

[Torques]

Hello,

I bought the STR2CD (used) and according to the (Japanese) manual the sleeve bearing is supposed to be

14mm and 30501-N1604.

There is an English translation of that manual but it is lacking this bit of information found in the Japanese manual.

http://www.osgiken.net/upload/d42.pdf

So did the 14mm bearing solve the issue or is there anything else I should be aware off?

Thanks

[Torques]

For the TS2CD the sleeve bearing is 12mm (as per Japanese manual)

this problem sounds all to familiar. i had this problem with my ts2cd. clutch would not engage properly. it ended up being the sleeve and bearing combo.

i finally got the right combo after pulling the box in and out 3 times. i wish i could tell you the part numbers but i forgot. however the clutch is no longer in

the car so if i find the sleeve and bearing floating around the garage ill get the part numbers.

[GTRsean]

Page 4 illustration 3 of the os giken link is a step that tends to get missed by those not in the know.

I had both the twin and triple plate os clutch kits in my 32 that needed the input shaft snout to be cut 4mm as well. Same with mate's os twin in a 300ZX box.

Not trimming the snout will cause the snout to contact the pressure plate fingers causing the clutch to half disengage, grind the snout to a pulp of aluminum shite, and make the throwout bearing and carrier unable to fully disengage clutch, as it will hit the damaged part of the snout that is now mushroomed....

I've been down this road....

Also another couple of things that may break are the pivot ball, and clutch fork from excessive force from trying to get the carrier past the mushroomed/ground up snout.

[Torques]

OMG!

This sounds bad .. but only seems to apply to the TS2?

Also I found this document:

http://www.osgiken.net/upload/d43.pdf

It says I should use the release bearing supplied.

So (hopefully) no sweat?

Page 4 illustration 3 of the os giken link is a step that tends to get missed by those not in the know.

I had both the twin and triple plate os clutch kits in my 32 that needed the input shaft snout to be cut 4mm as well. Same with mate's os twin in a 300ZX box.

Not trimming the snout will cause the snout to contact the pressure plate fingers causing the clutch to half disengage, grind the snout to a pulp of aluminum shite, and make the throwout bearing and carrier unable to fully disengage clutch, as it will hit the damaged part of the snout that is now mushroomed....

I've been down this road....

Also another couple of things that may break are the pivot ball, and clutch fork from excessive force from trying to get the carrier past the mushroomed/ground up snout.