Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm not too sure wtf it is now... i've checked over a few things but i want other peoples opinions on the subject first as well.

Timing belt was replaced awhile ago, (3-4 Months) and since then i've driven it daily. My current issue is that it wasn't noisy... but now it is, and it becomes concerning when i can hear it over my turbo.

I know from checking it, that it's coming from the left pulley, i just want to know what other people think it is.

It's driving me nuts!!!

Plus, want to know if it's a good or bad idea to run my car without it's belt cover.... because it was a bitch to get off.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/400782-rb25-noisy-timing-belt/
Share on other sites

@JJman, Just a Dayco Timing belt was the replacement and no the sound is exactly the same with the cover on and off.

@Moodles, Thanks for clearing that up.

@Dobz, Really? Because the sound is LOUDEST from the Left cam pulley but i'll give it a go and see what happens.

It was replaced proffesionally at a shop, but no i don't think the bearings were changed.

I agree with Dobz ask for an invoice stating that the bearings were changed.

(Side comment)Recently got my timing belt done for shits because I didn’t know if it had been done at 100,000Km and my mechanic recommended that the bearings be changed as well . (car doesn’t back fire now)

Do u live in a dusty area because I know with trucks that i drive get squeaky belts because a glaze has built up on the pulley from bull dust and alike (because i didn’t care i just put a bit of soapy water around the problem area and the sound would go away)

?

Edited by Luke stock R33

I can't believe the belt was changed, but not the bearings as well, and by the sounds of it the crank and cam seals weren't done either.

I don't think its really practical to do a front seal with a timing belt change. Cam half moons maybe but this can be done easily anytime, I didn't do mine in my 100,000km service, did them when I resealed my can covers

And since i've been running the machine without the cover, the CAS has been running fine, was also checked by an RB proffesional and he's happy with how it's set.

Cover will be going back on, but yeah.

mine sounds just like this after i put new cam shafts in, i think i put the idle bearing spring under the stud on the block instead of over,will this cause much harm to the engine?

figure i'll fix it in a few months once i get a carport or it stops raining for awhile

Edited by Dan_J

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm selling my personal race car. 1992 BNR32 Skyline GT-R About eight years ago the engine developed the dreaded low oil pressure problem. I removed it and found the issue. However shortly after I moved half way across the country, moved my work shop, bought a house, got married, then moved my shop again to it's permanent location for the time being. in turn I do not have the time to race this car as it should be. In turn the engine I built for this car will end up in my street car and this car I hope finds a home with someone who can use it to it's full potential. The roll bar was built by Jason Noren Fabricaiton in Pomona California to SCCA and NASA Specs. The car used to compete in redline time attack and global time attack enthusiast class. It also has a fire suppression system.  The car is with me at my workshop in Kyle Texas, USA. Shipping it is no problem, I can personally deliver the car to the port of either Houston or Los Angeles. Any other port depending on where it is may require transport but we can always work that out.   The chassis itself is rust free, rear quarters and under fenders are free of any rust so it's a very solid foundation for anyone who wishes to move forward with it. As posted and at the asking price of $20,000 USD the car includes all of the following;   All OEM Body panels, front fenders, rear bumpers etc.  OEM Nissan Projector headlamps (Pictured N1 lamps were removed) OEM Nismo Side Skirts / Extensions OEM Rear Spats  Front & Rear Subframes are installed car is full roller Rear Subframe has Cusco Camber Arms, Whiteline HICAS Elimination Front Subframe has Whiteline tension rods and whiteline Sway bars w/ endlinks.  Buddy Club N1 Coilovers All chassis wiring and engine wiring is in tact. Attessa System is fully in tact and was functional before engine removal.  BCNR33 GT-R Brembo Brakes F+R with Endless MX72 Plus Pads, DBA Rotors & Stainless Steel Brake lines Billion Racing Radiator Billion Radiator Hoses Fluidyne Engine Oil Cooler Accusump System (trunk Mounted) 5 Speed Transmission w/ Transfer Case F+R Prop-shafts Rear Differential With rear Axles.  Nismo Gauge Cluster Nismo Clutch + Flywheel   Essentially what is needed to make this car running and driving again is as follows: A working Engine, an ECU, and time to put it together. The price posted is or best offer as I am willing to remove some components to accommodate price to a certain extent. If any serious buyer wants full detailed pictures, videos, or any questions I'll be happy to answer them. I believe this car is priced to move quickly considering it's a rust free and very straight chassis but always open to fair negotiation.  I can be contacted via phone or email. (+19517081648) email is juan@bardabe.com   
    • So...to my (and my mechanics doing the swap) surprise...the oil pan from NEO engine does not fit 100% and needs to by modified like this: It is not a huge problem but in the future i want a "proper" oil pan. So question is...what different oil pan can i get to fit without any problems and modification? Thanks! 
    • Some more info I found.  These are the last entries Yoshikiyo Fujii made on his blog before he passed away in 2009: http://blog.livedoor.jp/fujii_dynamics/ And finally this is where the workshop was situated:  https://maps.app.goo.gl/HhTPtHzt3WVcBTiEA  
    • shit boxes, kids, and daily drivers are all welcome
    • Cam seals go hard. It's a very old car.
×
×
  • Create New...