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Selling my 1992 Nissan S13.

A good write up of the car has been done by Henry Phan from dorifuto:

http://www.dorifutoo.com/2012/04/1685/

Has been owned by me for the last 7 years, bought it when i was on my P's to get to and from uni.

Has slowly been built to what it is today. Being N/A there wasn't much i could do to get more power out of it but I did the most I could without opening up the head, hence suspension/brakes and driveline were all concentrated on, is great fun at skid pan days. Only thing other thing left to do would be to advance the timing a few degrees which will take like 10 mins.

At a guess, the car is making close to 95rwks which is more than enough for to have some fun.

Car has been used by me at skid pan days and numerous drift days however the car is reliable as hell and is regularly serviced either every 7000 kms (when it was my daily) / every 6 months which ever came first / after every 2 events of late.

I drive up 3 hours, skid and drive 3 hours back home never once has the car broken down or been left stranded.

Anyone that knows me can vouch for this.

Car is up to 210,000 kms and still goes like it is new, revs freely, starts first time everytime.

Water pump/belts was changed less than 5,000kms ago, im sure there was more that ive forgotten

Clean car, but body does show its age

Has rego till next year, March 2013 wont come with RWC as i don't have time to organise

Plates do not come with the car

Genuine reason for sale, nothing broken or that the car is going to die. I am traveling later on this year and could do with the extra money. If not the car will sit idle at home.

No joy riders or test drivers. Will only allow test drives for serious buyers.

Price is $6,000 FIRM

Low ballers and dreams will be told where to go.

Alot of the good stuff have already been sold, so it doesnt come with the follow:

15 x 8 - 8 Mesh Wheels with 185/55/15 Federal F1's

Fets front and rear strut braces,

R32GTR 3 slat grill,

Bucket seat

Gktech drift wheel

330cm Dildo gear knob

Bee*R Rev limiter

Apexi SAFC

SZ Roof visor

Aero pods

I will get more pics of the car as it stands later.

ENGINE:

Stock SR20DE

Shortened intake

4-2-1 Jasma extractors

2.5" straight through exhaust

Punched Cat

Exedy heavy duty clutch with bigger SR20DET flywheel

SUSPENSION/BRAKES/WHEELS/DIFF

SR20DET calipers/slotted rotors/QFMARM1 pads

Tein HA 8/6 Coilovers

Rear R32 GTR Swaybar

Stock wheels/Work Ewings

R200 with a 1.49 shim

Loom has been tucked to accomodate super lowness

EXTERIOR

J's headlights with clear covers with 6000K HID KIT

CA front lip

Aero sideskirts

R32GTR boot lip

INTERIOR:

S15 drivers seat

Momo steering wheel

Sunroof

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

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  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, you want the IACV to be running at around 30 "units", variously called "steps" or "duty cycle" depending on the person. That gives it room to go lower if need be and higher ditto.
    • Ah right that makes sense.
    • The RPM is just a target, the ECU will adjust things to try and hit that target but it's by no means guaranteed. If the IACV duty cycle is 0 or something like that and it's actually closing up fully then the idle is as low as it can physically go without reducing ignition timing. The problem can be something like the cold start valve in the IACV not closing fully, worn throttle shaft seals, torn rubber diaphragm in the brake booster allowing unmetered air, etc. 
    • Apexi, though I'm not comfortable with setting the idle, knowing me I'll f**k it up lol.
    • What ECU is on your car @silviaz? You can just change the idle target table yourself and the IACV duty cycle. Noting that if you play around with the screw you'll also need to revisit the idle base duty table as you will end up offsetting the lot. Another reason why DBW is superior, there's less mucking about.
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