Hks Evc Diy Repair If You Dare :)

[ZimNismoBoy]

Hello fellow enthusiasts.

So after 3 years of the car being a rebuild i have it running and rebuilt and finished the run in process.

So was tempted to switch on the boost controller 1900 kms down the road.

So flipped the switch and monitored boost pressures with a keen eye and eerrrm no change boost was same as factory stock 0.65Kpa blaah so tried readjusting boost settings A and B and tried resetting all settings and no change so a boost controller departed the technological living .

So opened it up and gave it a good looking over found the magic STEPPING motor and inspected for free movement and all seemed fine so oiled it assembled and tried again with a test drive and still no boost ..

So came back and decided to open it and feed some air into the Map sensor for boost that comes from the intake manifold it connects to the B line on the three pipe outlet/inlet and tested with a small syringe connected to a pipe directly feeding compressed air into the port and check the stepper motor for movement and nothing ..... so its dead .

So went hunting for a motor nothing available.

Now dont get me wrong this isnt a bad controller its a 2001 hks evc 4 and it works like a dream up until the time it might have gotten dirt inside and stuffed the motor .

So i found a old hks EVC III stepping motor unit and opened it and low and behold the magical stepping motor was inside .

so i cut it as far away from the wires of the stepping motor as i could and there was 6 wires in total .

black and Red x2 and Brown and yellow and orange i think.

So i cut the stuffed motor out of my nice evc 4 control motor box and got some heat shrink tubing. 1mm .

Soldered in the new motor making sure i had heat shrink on all the wires before i soldered them in place.

And carefully and i mean CAREFULLY inserted the motor making sure the pin was located in the slot inside the casing as this alows the bleed pin to float upward and downward inside the motor housing and essentially bleeds off air.

Now inside the unit it looks very and i mean very similar to the hks EVC III unit and has two MAP sensors that measure actual manifold boost and actually waste gate boost its a really good system.

So now i have soldered in the motor and heatshrinked all the wires and installed it with the pin in place and connected it up to my boost control unit as before and low and behold we now have a working boost controller.

i tested by setting a low boost pressure and closed the unit up.

I then fed again into the B pipe some pressure using the syringe.

I think blew using my small lungs lol into the I port and checked for a bleed off point and listened for the stepping motor to purr away as it moved the pin upward and down into the top seat and bottom seat.

I then checked high boost by setting a high setting close to 80% that of stock boost.

I then pressurised the B port again .

And blew into the I port and waited for a bleed off and only at a really high pressure was i able to pass air through the I port, it will be closed at idle or minus boost and will not allow air through until the desired boost is reached.

If we can find a good source for the stepping motors we can definitely repair them and save an easy few penny 700 USd for a new one EVC 6.

However i dont see any harm in using a older unused version of the Hks Evc series to repair a newer version .

Dirt kills these motors always always use FILTERS on the I and B ports as they are fed ports meaning air passes into them .

And this contaminated air could be carrying fine dust that can lock and seize the stepping motor inside .

Just to give some insight the motor has some bearings

These ball bearings give the motor its long lasting life span .

Infact from research the motor was never designed to ever fail based on how the cork screw mechanism is designed inside the stepper motor .

If necessary i can post pics as well.

Im still yet to go on a test run and confirm that it is repaired.

but im certain from my testing that the motor is ok and that it will control boost the way its supposed to.

For the last warning i give please make sure you dont tug on the stepping motor wires they are soldered internally and are very very weak and can snap off in a flash .

Dont remove any Gum or glue around the motor area or on the outside the gum is there to protect the circuit board from moisture.

And the Glue behind holds the sensors flush so that they dont leak boost pressure .

Remember this boost controller has a before and after MAP sensor .

So these boost controllers are so accurate and potentially failsafe.

If any one needs pics please let me know i tried to take as many as i could .

and i can post them just really tired after soldering and heatshrinking the wires.

The heat shrink is to ensure that we dont use insulation tape and also ensures that each soldered connection doesnt come out .

On the Evc board close to the red LED there is a resistor that has a split wire with each half neatly placed next to the LED on either side .

Leave it disconnected it was done at the factory heavens knows why .

If any one else has had any experiences with the Evc stepping motor please do share this will be great to get out there and help others who may have resorted to using a manual bleed valve or Dawes device lol.

[Guilt-Toy]

nerd.. good work... feels good when you repair something that everyone else would just toss in the bin and waste a good $500 replacing it!

[ZimNismoBoy]

lol you know i really didnt think i was a nerd but i am prepared to do a full how to guide just to help everyone else out .

I am currently looking into motors and i need the aid of the electronic gurus on here .

From what i can tell the motor is a 2 phase 6 wire or 5 wire motor .

Dimensions are 25x15 width is 250 mm x 150 mm

im looking for a suitable replacement on alibaba and if i can find one then we all will have a field day knowing that the only part that can become faulty because of dust can be repaired .

Im struggling to find a stepper motor with the internal diameter that will allow the spindle to be pressed in .

[GTScotT]

Good job mate!

I have had 2 of these EVC's, one was a 5 and it didnt work properly for sh*t. The other was an EVC 4 which actually worked fine, until I sold it and the new owner couldnt get any love from it at all.

I hate them with a passion, but its good to see you have found a way to at least repair them when they fail.

[scotty nm35]

Can you post a pic of the stepper? I have a few small ones laying around here...

Talk about overcomplicated, does the stepper actually compress the air for the wastegate actuator?

[Dobz]

I bought a HKS EVC III once.....

ended up in the bin.

Good job. Put the whole thing up in the DIY section, even though it won't help me now.

Edited May 22, 2012 by Dobz

[34GeeTeeTee]

Hmmm i bought a brand new EVC 5 as i thought they were the sh*t?? Hope it is all good as they arent bloody cheap!

[WMDC35]

I've got evc3, got second hand for 50 bucks, works excellent haha

[ZimNismoBoy]

Hi all will post some pics, but i must confirm this and make sure you have all heard it loud and clear the motor inside will never ever fail because it has very little moving parts no brushes that can fail and no moving parts bar the corkscrew type pin in the center.

Now to confirm with the one comment i will say this, the stepper motor doesnt compress air it controlls the air from the intake manifold and the pressure developed by the tubbies is then redirected into the boost contoller and the corkscrew thingy has a needle and seat that allow a certain amount of air to by pass but also allows a cetain amount controller amount to the waste gate actuators opening and closing them to give a precise boost .

These boost controllers are like no other they are the only boost controller to use a stepper motor and they are very very precise and very stable too thats why the stepper motor that controls the needle agaisnt the bleed seat is better then a solenoid valve.

Imagine this the first carbs didnt have a solenoid to control the fuel flow, they had a needle and seat on a float so imagine this being the same principle for the HKS evc boost contollers that use the special stepper motor .

To give an example of precision they use stepper motors in CNC small scale machines and they are really accurate .

I will try and make a how to ?

Dont know how good i will be as i have done most of the work already and will need to disassemble my evc 4 but its ok its all in good faith .

So keep the filters clean keep them in place and your controler will last a life time, get dirt in the stepper motor and you will kill the motor quickly .

I sure hope we can find a good source for the motors then we can get fixing .

Any one have any evcs they want to donate that are faulty so i can prove the theory!!!!

But wait i still need to post a pic of the stepper motor so that we can start searching for a suitable replacement ,.

[34GeeTeeTee]

Thread dig

Hey guys, i posted before mine was fitted as this thread worried me and guess what????? Mines got issues

Mine will work when its left hanging, but if it is bolted to the body it wont, i can only assume it is now a dry solder/wiring issue but was hoping some pics or something can be put up so i can have an attempt to fix it myself..... $600 boost controller new in the box and it has this problem

[Torques]

Interesting,

I thought I was the only one ever taking these apart.

I have an EVC III and EVC IV/

When I opened the solenoid I was surprised about the strange corkscrew mechanism.

My EVC had leakage, meaning it would not completely seal off.

That was due to the fact that there was dirt on the cone of the corkscrew.

After the removal of the dirt the EVC worked fine again.

Did anybody ever found merit in the fuzzy logic of this device?

Though being an old school EVC, I like the simple and quick operation.

Especially LOW-HIGH-Overboost

Also it has a nice form factor, which sadly is not easy to be found these days.