Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thinking of putting a spec m front bar on my series 1, did a google search and both the series 1.5 and spec m front bumpers look the same? Are they the same thing or are people naming bumpers wrong? I mainly wanted to know if it is much lower to the ground then the series 1 bumper and if anyone knows what it looks like with standard series 1 side skirts?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/400933-r33-series-15-vs-spec-m-front-bar/
Share on other sites

Thinking of putting a spec m front bar on my series 1, did a google search and both the series 1.5 and spec m front bumpers look the same? Are they the same thing or are people naming bumpers wrong? I mainly wanted to know if it is much lower to the ground then the series 1 bumper and if anyone knows what it looks like with standard series 1 side skirts?

Is this what you are talking about? I had this on my S1 and as far as I can tell its no different to the S1.5 front bumper

DSC02222.jpg

89cal has standard side skirts, yours doesn't have any side skirts on it, that's just the body. His front bar is M spec/1.5 (same thing) and yours appears to be standard S1 base model.

haha...noobs..

actually I got a guy (wont say who but everybody who frequents FI section knows him) who always asks me where i got my special rare front bumper, cause hes never seen one like that..its stock S1...:laugh:

89cal has standard side skirts, yours doesn't have any side skirts on it, that's just the body. His front bar is M spec/1.5 (same thing) and yours appears to be standard S1 base model.

Ok thankyou for finally answering my question about whether M spec and S1.5 was the same bar! Initially I thought that mine just had small side skirts, I now realise it has none. Did side skirts come standard with S1.5?

haha...noobs..

actually I got a guy (wont say who but everybody who frequents FI section knows him) who always asks me where i got my special rare front bumper, cause hes never seen one like that..its stock S1... :laugh:

Yeah well i've been trying to source another series 1 bumper because I quite like them and mine is effed (dad crashed my car, believe it or not! ) but there are none around! all I can source is the series 1.5 bumper so I bought one the other day and will see how it looks without side skirts in a week once the rest of the car is fixed :(

  • 1 month later...

Yeah well i've been trying to source another series 1 bumper because I quite like them and mine is effed (dad crashed my car, believe it or not! ) but there are none around! all I can source is the series 1.5 bumper so I bought one the other day and will see how it looks without side skirts in a week once the rest of the car is fixed :(

Hey mate where are you ? ill swap you my satndard series1 for your 1.5!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...