Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Am switching over the old leaking injectors in my 1982 HR30 with the L20 turbo motor but can't seem to find the resistor pack.

There must be one as it's running low impedance injectors(2.8 ohms).

Anyone know where to look please?

Edited by stewart1

Thanks!...I've read that Nissan used cheaper ECU's that needed resistor packs because they couldn't handle the low impedance injector amps.

My R30 definitely doesn't have a pack so if you are right they must have used an expensive ECU in only the R30 turbo model...interesting!

wow i haven't logged into SAU in A LONG TIME...

that pic is of your boost vac sensor (from memory)

I swapped my L20et injectors for RB20 ones ... pretty sure it was the na VL commonwhore ones @ about $80 each > maybe try searching for my old thread

good luck with those brittle old injector spacers and finding where you start sucking in air when you change them :)

- David

Yep it's a 1982 so 30 years old so needs some work,I notice the injector spacers are already broken (havn't touched them yet) and there's petrol bubbling around the seals.

I was going to but some RB20 injectors in which are 14.5 ohm(high impedance)and by-pass the resistor pack but seeing there isn't one I guess it's back to finding some low impedance ones.

Yes that's the boost sensor in pic,was showing wild fluctuating boost on the gauge so I broke it open and cleaned it,works fine now.

Just replaced the water pump recently as the shaft had wobbled out of it bush and the fan was hitting the cowl...it ontrack.jpgdeserves to be bought back to top condition after towing a horse jogging frame every day for the last 7 years.

Oh and it can still keep pace with my R33 RB25 turbo easy,don't know how but it does!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi. A little bit of an update. It maybe(hope not) looks like i would need a new tranny(it would be "maybe" a cheaper or better option anyway) So i need some info. I know i need a different propshaft(i can make custom one) LSD is not a problem cuz the engine will be still(for now) N/A RB20. So if i buy RB25DET NEO tranny...is there something else i need? I read something about push/pull type but i do not know if i need to "change" something or i can just plug n play onto my engine a go? Thanks for the advice  
    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
×
×
  • Create New...