Jump to content
SAU Community

Swing Valve Resting Position

GoHard

By GoHard,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

GoHard Collaborator

GoHard

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey guys,

Ive just finished the painful process of extracting exhaust manifold studs, now apon inspection of my turbo (stock) I have noticed that the swing valve is loose?

Sorry Im not all that clued on with turbos but I am assuming that should be shut pretty tightly?

If it is supposed to be closed tight is there a way to adjust it? Not sure how it all works.

Btw the actuator rod is tight, just the circular swing valve is flappy :/

Cheers

Edit: a bit mor info, the reason for doing the studs was exhaust leak (duh) now, one of the symptoms I was experiencing was a flucuation in boost. Almost like a flicker as it was climing. Now I just assumed that was part of the leaking manifold but now... Could this be caused by this?

Edited by GoHard
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/401007-swing-valve-resting-position/
Share on other sites
GoHard Collaborator

GoHard

Posted
  • Author
Posted

A picture? I was trying to think how I could take a picture of movement...

I guess this might explain it? Should I be able to slide a piece of paper behind it when closed?

post-84169-0-79276200-1337915227_thumb.jpg

Its loose enough to spin freely with my finger. I hope this helps?

XRATED Veteran

XRATED

Posted
Posted

there should be some adjustment on the actuation rod that it's connected to it. adjust the rod so that flap is hard up against the seat. it'd be worth cleaning all the carbon off around the seat before adjustment.

cheers

justin

jjman Mentor

jjman

Posted
Posted

to me it sounds like there is more wrong with it than just the need for adjustment.

I dont think he should be able to freely move the wastegate with his fingers... or is it just the valve/disc that covers the hole that has some freeplay but the overall mechanism is still stiff and cannot be moved by hand?

GoHard Collaborator

GoHard

Posted
  • Author
Posted

to me it sounds like there is more wrong with it than just the need for adjustment.

I dont think he should be able to freely move the wastegate with his fingers... or is it just the valve/disc that covers the hole that has some freeplay but the overall mechanism is still stiff and cannot be moved by hand?

Yeah mate the whole assembly is stiff as. Its just that circular disk that sits a bit loose.

See in the pic, i can grab onto the shaft (dead centre of disc) and it feels like very minute shaft play. I can spin it from there.

GoHard Collaborator

GoHard

Posted
  • Author
Posted

put some washers between the turbo and the bracket the actuator is on... :whistling:

What I really need is a washer on the swing valve to shim it, but there is no way of taking it apart to get a washer in there. Circlip maybe but thats worth even more :whistling:'s

JonnoHR31 Grand Master

JonnoHR31

Posted
Posted

put some washers between the turbo and the bracket the actuator is on... :whistling:

This, should solve your problem nicely. Put enough washers on there to hold it shut and then an extra 2-3mm, should raise your boost a touch.

GoHard Collaborator

GoHard

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Justin, johnathon... Thank you. Thank you so much. A washer under the bracket of both bolts brings it closed perfectly!

Is this safe? There isn't much surface area for the bracket to sit on in the first place so I dont see why not. This has been done before?

Edited by GoHard

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      GTR front looks good. If you don't like it, I'll swap you a rolling shell R33 for it. Give you a fresh base to start with.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      soon I also prefer the old look. At least I have more clearance for wheels up front now.
    • MBS206
      SAU History 101

      By MBS206 · Posted

      @PranK I think a few links in the original post need fixing...
    • GTSBoy
      GTR R34 Limp Mode

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Has equal chance of cleaning an AFM and f**king an AFM. I think you can work out what happened. When the Hitachi ECU sees the AFM die and goes into the associated limp mode, then it will start and run just fine, because it ignores the AFM and just runs on idle maps that will do what it needs to get it going. But there is no proper load signal, so that's about all it can do. My suggestion? If you don't want to go full aftermaket ECU, then get some R35 GTR AFM cards and some housings to put them in, in the stock location, and Nistune the ECU. Better to do a good upgrade than just replace shitty 40 year old tech with the same 40 year old tech.
    • steven7270
      GTR R34 Limp Mode

      By steven7270 · Posted

      So my car was recently having trouble starting on initial crank, I would need to feather the gas for it to start up but besides that it would start and run fine. So I clicked the idle air control valve (with throttle body cleaner) and cleaned the MAF sensors (with MAF cleaner). The start up issue was fixed and now the car turns over without the assist of the throttle, but the car is in limp mode and wont rev past 2.5k RPM. From what I understand the IACV would not put the car in limp mode, so I am to believe it is the MAF sensors, but it was running fine before and now I cant get it out of limp mode. I cleaned the MAF made sure the o rings were seated properly. Made sure the cables were plugged in properly, the cables also both read the same voltage. Does anybody know why this is or what could be causing this or how to get it out of limp mode?
×
×
  • Create New...