Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Time to sell up cheap as I've just proposed to the mrs and need a couple of bucks to put towards a wedding.

I think i've done the turbo, it ran unlimited boost and started whirring a little on boost, it still drove but i garaged it in the hopes of fixing it up one day. On re-starting it again a year later it smoked a heap and didnt enjoy boosting.

I got a mechanic to compression test 1 cyl which came back fine.

I just really cant be bothered fixing it and am getting a new ute shortly so i'm clearing the shed out.

Would make a nice cheap fixer upper, track car or even an sr transplant candidate as the body and drive train are still in great shape.

3k ono

Engine

CA18det

Metal head gasket

Shot piened rods and pistons

Performance rings

Balanced block

Head work

Billet crank

Kevlar timing belt

550cc injectors

HKS Cam gears

HKS Silicon hoses

HKS Duel dump pipe

GFB BOV

Engine resprayed candy apple red

Intake

Z32 AFM

R33 radiator

Big cooler

Thermo fans

Stainless induction

Powder coated black cooler pipes

Driveline

Lightened fly wheel

2 way mechanical LSD (Cusco I think)

Fully adjustable JIC Gold coilovers

Exhaust

3" stainless exhaust

Interior gadgets

HKS incab duel stage boost control

HKS Turbo timer

HKS Boost gauge

HKS Stainless shifter

Momo steering wheel

Recaro adjustable back race seat

HUD (speedo on windscreen)

Black wired alarm

Keyless entry

Electric windows

Origional 180sx floor mats

ECU

Dr Drift tuned ECU

Suspension etc

Strut brace

Nolathane bushes etc

P1 Buddy light weight race rims

Upgraded cross drilled disks

Upgraded callipers

Pads need a change

Body

Car resprayed Polar White

C-West front bar

Buddy club side skirts (I think)

Vertex rear bar (I think)

Shaved rear wing

Type x tail light and centre

Vented bonnet

If you'd like any info just ask.

No reg no rwc

post-58941-0-12397700-1338248009_thumb.jpg

post-58941-0-66009000-1338248018_thumb.jpg

post-58941-0-98621500-1338248058_thumb.jpg

post-58941-0-79009200-1338248092_thumb.jpg

post-58941-0-71644900-1338248101_thumb.jpeg

Edited by Stromulux
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/401277-180sx/
Share on other sites

Well its only sold pending payment, if thats not recieved then its straight back on the market cheap as chips, I've had this thing "sold" and been stuffed around so many times (dont you love ebay) i just want the thing gone. I've even got a spare t3 turbo to throw in

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/401277-180sx/#findComment-6380384
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Surely the merged entity will be called "Honda" given the relative company values. I've got to be honest, I don't understand how merging 2 companies that missed EVs (despite Nissan making the first mass produced one) will solve their problems
    • If you haven't bought the ECU yet, I would strongly consider buying a modern ECU. Yes it is very easy to setup and tune, however it is lacking many of the features of a modern ECU. The pro plug in is something like 10 or 12 years old now? Can't remember exactly but it is very dated now. In that time the Elite was released and now we have the Nexus platform.  I would strongly consider not buying the ECU that is 3 generations old now (especially as it isn't a cheap ECU!). 
    • Im happy for it as long as it means reanult gets the boot 
    • Sorry I should have been more clear with the previous post.  The block is a sanding block - picture something like this https://motorguard.com/product/motor-guard-bgr161-bgr16-1-rigid-psa-sanding-block-2-5-8-x-16/ The guide coat is the paint It's two separate things I was talking about, there is no "block guide coat". 
    • Maybe more accurately, you aren't just dulling the existing paint, you are giving the new paint something to 'grab on to'. By sanding the existing paint, you're creating a bunch of pores for the new paint to hook on to.  You can lay new paint over existing paint without sanding it, might last a year or two then sad times. The paint will peal/flake off in huge chunks. By sanding it, the new paint is able to hang onto it and won't flake off.  Depends on the primer you are using. When you buy your paint, as the paint supplier what grit of sand paper to use before you lay down the primer.  Use whatever you like as a guide coat. Pick a colour that really stands out in contrast to the paint. So say your sanding/painting a currently white car, using a black guide coat would work well. You very lightly lay the black guide coat down, then as you sand the car with the large block, all the high spots and low spots will stand out as the black paint is sanded off (or isn't sanded off).  When you buy your paint, hit up your supplier for recommendations for what paint to use for a guide coat if you're unsure what would work well with your setup. 
×
×
  • Create New...