Common R33 Mods?

[Mattgr]

Hi, i am fairly new to cars, not very knowledgable. I bought a 1998 R33 gts-t about 3 weeks ago, and am wondering what mods i can add to it to increase performance and looks. I already have a rear strut brace (no front), adjustable coilovers, pod air filter, BOV, stock intercooler, Apexi actuator valve controller (which i've got no idea how to use, so i left it alone) stock turbo and 3 inch exhaust. I don't really know much about my car, however id definately like to learn alot more and add some mods to it.

It's done 173,000km's, recently new tyres and wheel alignment.

Cheers, Matt.

[N1GTR]

Start by looking through this

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/55845-rb25-turbo-upgrade-all-dyno-results/page__view__findpost__p__1085967

[Mattgr]

Start by looking through this

http://www.skylinesa...ost__p__1085967

I actually read this thread earlier, the only thing is i have no idea what half of the mods mean, like i said i'm not very knowledgable, so if someone could tell me the basic mods and their uses or somewhere i could learn this info, would be great, Cheers.

[petero'nell]

The most common mods would be:

Front mount cooler

3inches Turbo back exhaust

some ID 1000 injectors (drop in for R34)

Nistune ECU

Z32 AFM

Get your turbo to hypergear for a high flow or get one of their bolton turbos.

get a proper tune and should be seeing any where upto 280rwkws pump or 300+ with E85.

[Mattgr]

The most common mods would be:

Front mount cooler

3inches Turbo back exhaust

some ID 1000 injectors (drop in for R34)

Nistune ECU

Z32 AFM

Get your turbo to hypergear for a high flow or get one of their bolton turbos.

get a proper tune and should be seeing any where upto 280rwkws pump or 300+ with E85.

front mount cooler = intercooler?

what benefit are higher cc injectors?

where is the ecu + what exactly does it do?

z32 afm?

Sorry, i dont really know much mate.

Cheers.

[t_revz]

front mount cooler = intercooler?

what benefit are higher cc injectors?

where is the ecu + what exactly does it do?

z32 afm?

Sorry, i dont really know much mate.

Cheers.

Anything you don't know like z32 just search it and see what you can come up with. either try to learn or copy someone else's setup

Front mount= inter cooler

As you want more power you need more fuel hence bigger injectors

Ecu is behind glovebox and is he brain for the engine. Unless your setup is staying fairly stock then it needs to be changed to one that can be re-programmed to suit the new setup.

Z32 is a bigger air flow sensor.

Mostly depends on your budget. Do a bit of research and see how you go. Check dyno results topic also

[Mattgr]

Thanks mate, very helpful

[Mattgr]

Ok, ive done a bit of research and have a few questions.

1. How much difference performance-wise is there between stock injectors, 850cc injectors and 1000cc injectors.

2. if i was to upgrade my injectors would my valves also need upgrading, due to them working harder.

3. What is the difference between stock afm and the z32, i see that there is no point getting a z32 unless i also upgrade my ecu. So i am wondering, for the effort and money required for the upgrade will it actually be worth it?

Cheers.

[N1GTR]

Quick answer before I go to bed;

1. Lots. Bigger injectors allow for more fuel to be pushed into the combustion chamber (area above pistons and below valves) to make more power. The more power you make, the more fuel is needed. Any change to injectors requires adjustments in the ECU. As a general rule of thumb to make it easy, think of 850cc injectors as 850hp, 1000cc as 1000hp and so on. Thats not exactly the right numbers after other considerations are taken, but I'm trying to make it as easy to understand as possible if that makes sense. Also most tuners (people with the skills to make the alterations in the ECU) will have a limit for the injectors for example 85% duty cycle (how hard the injector is working) before they stop pushing them. Each tuner is different. So you may go for the 850cc injectors and have a tuner who will use 90% duty cycle, meaning the flow used is around 770cc. Use this as a rough guide, there's more to it but to save you the time and headache go and buy a set of ID1000's from Injector Dynamics to suit RB25.

2. No

3. The difference in very basic terms; think of the difference between a mcdonalds straw and a fire hose. One flows more than the other. Eventually the stock one will run out of flow and not be able to accurately tell the ECU whats going on and if the ECU doesnt know whats going on, how can it do it's job of managing the engine?

One thing to keep in mind is that with these mods requiring a retune, you're better off to buy all the parts and fit them when it's time for the tune. You cant just put 1000cc injectors on it and expect is to drive the way it does now, the ECU has to be told what you've changed, so leave the car as it is for now, buy everything you want on there, take it all in one go to whoever you will get to tune the car and ask them to fit it all for you and tune in the one go.

[scotty nm35]

1) None, they only allow more fuel flow as your power level increases. If you chose an older design injector the spray pattern may be poor = bad fuel economy and poor idle.

2) No, the valves will be fine, the valve springs may need replacing if they are old and tired.

3)The Z32 will allow you to tune safely for more power as the stock afm will run out of resolution or max out. You will need a tuneable ecu for this and the injectors if you get them.

Edit, beat me to it Steve-o.

[75coupe]

wait a sec, what do you want from your car?

What do you want it to do?

Maybe dont even go down the power path and just go for a better handling setup and just drive and get to track days.

seriously once the power bug bites and you start doing power mods, you'll never drive it, it will be forever getting built and tuned and modified again, just drive it at the power it has, get some sways bars, a decent suspension setup and decent brakes and tyres and drive...

Sounds like you havnt been into performance cars very long so get used to driving one and then see where that leads you...

[ARTZ]

^^^^ is so true, it actually depresses me how much I DONT drive my car anymore..

get a better exhaust is a must, basic servicing and a tunable ecu and run at 10-12psi you should have around 300hp then drive it until the turbo blows. Could be a week could he years..when it does get a hiflow for 1000$ and continue tuning and driving.

Chasing big power is riddled with headaches..just drive its tits off as it is and you will find good suspension setup Is just as beneficial as more power, then replace stuff as it breaks and not before.

otherwise you just end up with a 5-600hp car and the realization that you don't really know how to drive it.

[GTSBoy]

I agree with the most recent posts. Especially if you are a young guy without much experience or knowledge. Doing a lot of big power mods just means that the car will break more often, and you won't know why, and you'll be at the mercy of tow trucks and mechanics.

Also, modifications for looks are a good way to waste money. Buy new wheels, by all means......but don't just choose them for their look, or how flush they sit, or any of that bullshit. Buy them because they are light and strong and allow you to run the tyre size you need/want to run. THEN consider how they look, what colour they are, (and worst of all) how much they cost. Same with anything else that goes on the outside of the car. If you have to spend money to put it on, and it doesn't improve performance, then it is money wasted. By the same token though, improving performance is a bit of a silly goal anyway, as there is very little you can stick on the outside of a car that actually does improve the performance of a street car.

Here's my tips.

Nice brake upgrades first. Feels wrong to make the car slow down better before making speed up better, but you will appreciate good brakes, and it is smart to make the car as safe as possible before making it more dangerous.

Same then for suspension upgrades. Do not necessarily run out and get a set of coilovers like you have been advised above. For one thing, they are defectable most places (unless engineered, and even then, adjustable height is still a problem) and they are seldom better than a decent standalone damper with good springs anyway. You are far better off replacing all bushings in both front and rear. Adjustable urethane bushes where they will give you needed adjustment, and just firm rubber ones where you need to retain some compliance to stop it becomeing a hard riding mongrel of a thing that you will learn to hate. Bigger anti-roll bars are essential - but only go for the biggest ones if you are aware of how much of a skateboard the car can become in slippery conditions with heaps of roll stiffness - AND - know how to control the car when it does.

Good tyres. KU36, some of the 595s, Dunlop Star Specs. All cheap, all sticky. All very nice to drive on. All have short life expectancy. You have other options with more life and less grip available.

My other tip is start reading and making notes. Do not believe anything you read unless it makes sense and is repeated nearly everywhere. There are a lot of myths out there - we're all guilty of believing them and propagating them at one time or another.

cheers

[Mattgr]

Thanks for the advice guys, will ponder the thoughts and decide what i want to do.

Cheers

[Manuel Kasko]

You guys missed out on dose!

Chuck a vent to atmosphere BOV and pull chicks

The rest is profit

[Mattgr]

You guys missed out on dose!

Chuck a vent to atmosphere BOV and pull chicks

The rest is profit

Already got one of those mate

[BLITZ-26]

well pull that thing off there ... and let the flutters begin!!!!

[AngryRB]

I think you should avoid silly bov and other useless all show and shine crap, if your going down the modification route you need to make up your mind where you will end up... The Goal determines what you need, are you prepared to spend $5k on bolt on mods to get upto 280kw or do you just want great response and be happy with 220kw.. it gets expensive very quick.... you can have fun with 220kw's which is stock computer with a highflow, more and you will end up spending alot of $$$ stock turbo's are shit, atleast hi flow it with somthing that can run 18psi safely

Edited May 30, 2012 by SliverS2

[Mattgr]

I think you should avoid silly bov and other useless all show and shine crap, if your going down the modification route you need to make up your mind where you will end up... The Goal determines what you need, are you prepared to spend $5k on bolt on mods to get upto 280kw or do you just want great response and be happy with 220kw.. it gets expensive very quick.... you can have fun with 220kw's which is stock computer with a highflow, more and you will end up spending alot of $$$ stock turbo's are shit, atleast hi flow it with somthing that can run 18psi safely

Yes, i was thinking about upgrading the stock turbo, however if i run 18psi ill have to upgrade my valves, any idea how much new valves cost + turbo?

I have been told anymore than 14psi will destroy my valves

[t_revz]

I have been told anymore than 14psi will destroy my valves

Have you been getting your info from a Toyota forum?