Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Everyone looking for purchase a set of Gramslight 57D for my GTT. I had read a bit of the old post here, some say they can run +20 to 22 all round without any problem, But most people do +35 to +30 offset. I have no idea which will be the best offset for the GTT. Current with HKS hyper Max 2 coilover with 1 and half finger gap all round and RPF1 18 x 8 F, 18 x 9 R and +35 offset. I think that combination is quite nice for GTT. The problem is the 57D only come with +38 or +22 offset Is thinking of 18 x 9.5 +38 F and 18 x 9.5 +22 R, or +38 all round? Planning for using 245 40 F and 265 35 R tyres. I am after something without guards roll, no stretch tyres and no massive camber. Please help Thank you.

I have gram lights on my GTT;

F: 18x8.5 +35

R: 18x9.5 +38

With 245's all round, lowered on BC's and no guard work I don't have any issues at all. If you do get the same fitment as me I would recommend 255/65's on the rear. Hope this helps.

Thx But according to the Rays web site for 18' 57D they only come in +38 or +22 and must be 9.5 so I don't know will the front scratch

I have gram lights on my GTT;

F: 18x8.5 +35

R: 18x9.5 +38

With 245's all round, lowered on BC's and no guard work I don't have any issues at all. If you do get the same fitment as me I would recommend 255/65's on the rear. Hope this helps.

But I guess +38 and +35 are not big different, Maybe?

I would be more concerned about the width in combination with the offset. There is minimal clearance between the coilover and wheel with my fitment.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi. A little bit of an update. It maybe(hope not) looks like i would need a new tranny(it would be "maybe" a cheaper or better option anyway) So i need some info. I know i need a different propshaft(i can make custom one) LSD is not a problem cuz the engine will be still(for now) N/A RB20. So if i buy RB25DET NEO tranny...is there something else i need? I read something about push/pull type but i do not know if i need to "change" something or i can just plug n play onto my engine a go? Thanks for the advice  
    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
×
×
  • Create New...