Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all

Getting the good old 100k service soon and thought to myself let's beef up that mid range a little.

We're talking -9's with the basics

My sig tells all.

Now my afms maxed out, but I feel that it should be fine unless I want to go over 300kw.

Basically at the time of the 100k service I was thinking of throwing on some adjustable cam gears and tune adjusted.

Will it be fine you reckon?

Or should I just pull my finger out and call my tuner? Haha.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/401374-lets-talk-mid-range/
Share on other sites

+1 CAM GEARS

my old gtr setup with -7's had the cam gears tuned for midrange rather than outright power, certinaly felt good to drive on the street, especialy around the twisties like nato park etc

im an idiot for not putting cam gears in my new gtr, so im doing that very soon to beef up the midrange aswell

Drop in Tomei type B cams. Add cam gears. If you're thinking about more changes later, may as well throw in an ECU with Map and then not need the AFM's anymore.

Or, the non budget option; stroker motor time.

Lol, I know I want to :S. so exxy

I believe there are a few NISMO AFMs for sale 2nd hand in the for sale section

Straight plug and play with the Nismos, I have Z32s in mine and there is a little caressing to get them in and new plugs ofcourse

which reminds me, i still have my Nismo AFM's ... should probably get around to selling those :D

or you could go MAP sensor - do the numbers on selling AFM's and Power FC, you might find the Link G4(you're Unigroup so i'm going Link) is not much extra at the end of the day

or you could go MAP sensor - do the numbers on selling AFM's and Power FC, you might find the Link G4(you're Unigroup so i'm going Link) is not much extra at the end of the day

You sound like a broken record. You say that so much :D:P

haha, you guys.

Lets crunch some numbers

Nismo afms - US$800 + tune up

SELL

Powerfc - $750

AFMS - $300 (would keep afms for stock air box purposes)

--------------------> $1050 $750

BUY

Powerfc Djetro - $1000

whole new tune + installation - $800 - $1000

-------------------------------------------------------------> $1800

$1800 -

$750

$1100...... extra - tune up. So lets say $800

Or $800 for afms.

Shit, haha. I think Ill just be that looser guy not running map

Edited by Hadouken

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for sharing this, and BTW if your headlights are in good condition they are worth thousands....you might want to consider replacing them with brand new LED ones like this (https://www.nengun.com/78works/full-led-headlights-r32-skyline) and making enough profit to buy a house in Sydney
    • I'm not sure what sort of shops are nearby, but I'd expect any reasonable exhaust shop could put a cat in it that will not restrict the power that engine makes. Otherwise, if you want to remove it, short lengths that replace the cat are readily available online, search for "de-cat pipes" or "test pipes"  
    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Hope the cans went down well at least 
×
×
  • Create New...