Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Great result mate. Congrats.

So it's hitting full boost by 4000rpm.

That's pretty damn good, especially when you are running the stock manifold and the gate off the turbine housing aren't you?

what size exhaust are you running?

Not sure on the road speed conversion to rpm but it seems to be hitting 16psi at 4000rpm; 16psi is the boost level chosen not 'full boost' capacity of the turbocharger and system. Don't mean to be picky but its good to know the difference as it can be misleading.

If it were to run more more boost, it would take more rpm to generate that additional boost. Basic eg, full boost could be theoretically 45psi + and at that boost level, it would not hit that at 4000rpm but more rather 5000rpm or so. More relevant, if they were to turn the boost up to 25psi, they might see that figure anywhere from 4200rpm to 4500rpm.

  • Replies 94
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Glad to hear you got it sorted mate. great result!

Really makes me think about adding the juice to mine too. Be really interested to know what the higher compression would do with it.

How much would you estimate the additional costs were? do you have a ethanol meter? tuning etc?

So it's hitting full boost by 4000rpm.

That's pretty damn good, especially when you are running the stock manifold and the gate off the turbine housing aren't you?

what size exhaust are you running?

yeah 20psi at 4000rpm and yes stock manifold and gate off the housing, i have a 3 1/2inch system and 3inch muffler ,

Edited by SliverS2

Glad to hear you got it sorted mate. great result!

Really makes me think about adding the juice to mine too. Be really interested to know what the higher compression would do with it.

How much would you estimate the additional costs were? do you have a ethanol meter? tuning etc?

thanks mate, the juice had the tuner shaking his head laughing, he did the tune in about 45min which was pretty good going,

additional costs were

injectors and rail - $830

fuel reg- $270

modifying manifold -$50

others hoses,fitting ,fuel etc -$200

tune$200-$300

shit sounds like alot, best not thinking bout the total :closedeyes: dont have an ethanol analyser, its been tuned on the richer side and im just going to keep an eye on the knock levels.

Edited by SliverS2

Not sure on the road speed conversion to rpm but it seems to be hitting 16psi at 4000rpm; 16psi is the boost level chosen not 'full boost' capacity of the turbocharger and system. Don't mean to be picky but its good to know the difference as it can be misleading.

If it were to run more more boost, it would take more rpm to generate that additional boost. Basic eg, full boost could be theoretically 45psi + and at that boost level, it would not hit that at 4000rpm but more rather 5000rpm or so. More relevant, if they were to turn the boost up to 25psi, they might see that figure anywhere from 4200rpm to 4500rpm.

Im well aware of all this, but full boost to me usually refers to the maximum boost setting the owner has choosen to run for the supplied dyno graph. For the more novus reader though, i can understand where you are coming from.

I think 4000rpm is decent considering the flow capacity the gtx3076 has, I'd be stocked with the result. Wonder if the poncams made much of a difference?

Great result mate. Congrats.

Not sure on the road speed conversion to rpm but it seems to be hitting 16psi at 4000rpm; 16psi is the boost level chosen not 'full boost' capacity of the turbocharger and system. Don't mean to be picky but its good to know the difference as it can be misleading.

If it were to run more more boost, it would take more rpm to generate that additional boost. Basic eg, full boost could be theoretically 45psi + and at that boost level, it would not hit that at 4000rpm but more rather 5000rpm or so. More relevant, if they were to turn the boost up to 25psi, they might see that figure anywhere from 4200rpm to 4500rpm.

i just looked one of the video's i took , its actually before 4000rpm, ill try to upload it to show proof of the road speed v's revs,

it looks like 100km/hr is about 3500rpm in 4th so if thats right then i have 20psi at about 3800ish

Edited by SliverS2

haha.. even when cruising its like a kettle whistling and whining , dont have need for the radio much these days lol :whistling:

Haha nice result man! Gotta love that sound!

Your standard engine will take more boost and love it ;)

cos of the internal wastegate

Its an external wastegate, tial 44mm with a 0.82rear housing , i doubt it could ever fall over

It looks that way because of how the boost controller was set, i put in 90%duty up till 3500rpm to try and get it boosting early, and 60% for 3500-7000rpm

we never touched it on the dyno , just did a run and because the power was what i was after, decided to leave it where it was, there is no problem getting it too hold 20psi all the way thru if we wanted to, but this way the engine isnt being leaned on so hard toward the end of the revs, so a quick adjustment on the controller would see 350kw probably, but i dont want to be rebuilding an engine for a while yet so will just leave it for a while. :yes:

Edited by SliverS2

For ARTZ, I honestly think the external gate setup here helps with how impressive it is.

The internal gate would be a different story, a little lazier IMO.

Im pretty sure Mick_O is on par for spool with this car but has a GTX71, i dare say if he went external gate off the housing his spool would improve again.

Its an external wastegate, tial 44mm with a 0.82rear housing , i doubt it could ever fall over

It looks that way because of how the boost controller was set, i put in 90%duty up till 3500rpm to try and get it boosting early, and 60% for 3500-7000rpm

we never touched it on the dyno , just did a run and because the power was what i was after, decided to leave it where it was, there is no problem getting it too hold 20psi all the way thru if we wanted to, but this way the engine isnt being leaned on so hard toward the end of the revs, so a quick adjustment on the controller would see 350kw probably, but i dont want to be rebuilding an engine for a while yet so will just leave it for a while. :yes:

the answer was for the hks pro s (r31 power)

I went for a nice drive in Mick O's GTX3071 R33 today and am so blown away at how good it is that I honestly cannot see how he could improve such a potent weapon. Running e85 and an incredibly fast spooling gtx pumping 330rwkw it had me laughing madly all the way and being the really nice bloke that he is, he was laughing as much too! Thanks so much Mick O, Ur setups just so amazing.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey lads, reviving an old thread.  As an update, since the last time replied to this thread, ive done mostly suspension. Havent touched the motor except for maintenance. Though upon changing spark plugs, found out i had splitfires pre-installed! Updates: - Got me some stock airbox top cover and snorkel to fit onto the original intake. Should be free of defects - Bought a set of R34 GT-T brakes (not installed yet, going to rebuild + respray in champion blue + white 'Nissan' text) - Bought the last set of bilsteins from @Sydneykid and had them installed. Has been making some sounds on the rear but hopefully should be sorted out after this New Year break. - Regreased front caster rod bushings (poly bushes..) - Rear upper camber arms - Whiteline sway bars (BNF27Z 22mm + BNR11XXZ 24mm).  The rear sway bars are a bit short (ive read 50mm else where) but was still able to get them in.  Anyhows, I reckon suspension is sorted now. Maybe replace bushes (do have a set of front upper control arms from SK not installed yet) but should be okay for now. From now, I'm wanting to start working on the motor, drivetrain etc etc. Still debating on the order to go on and what to buy etc but: - ECU ( Haltech or Link ( Link states that it dont support A/T or AWD functions... Can anyone attest to this? ) - Highflow turbo ( ATR43ss2 ) - Intercooler ( Not decided yet, but cant find many good afoordable ones. Toshi says to opt for crossflow Japanese. Bit difficult this one, unless I get a returnflow Blitz from JJ? ) - Injectors ( Any recommendations ? I do have a nismo FPR ( Thanks SK ) ) - Seats - Tune by either Toshi or DVS To be fair, I did consider just keeping the stock turbo and nistuning it. Sat in a mates stock N, that had something like 200kw, and I reckon that felt more than enough. Maybe I should just go this route ahhaha. Too many choices.... Planning a trip down south, so wanting to just clean things up and make sure it gets to and from in one piece. Anything else specifically I should do before ? Cheers lads  
    • Must be for the car’s lucky charm 🤷🏽‍♂️ She runs fine, but it just seems to take about 1L less. Maybe I’ll have the oil sump dropped at some point to check if there is anything 
    • Hmmm interesting. Mine is the exact same and clearly the right one.  The mystery of the engine oil being full after 3.5-4L continues 
    • Yes I as well would like to find out where I could get some of the seat material with the red or blue small squares in it
×
×
  • Create New...