Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

any in the SE suburbs available to borrow a TPS for 5mins to check out my car?

Have a problem with the car not revving past 2000rpm & have changed the AFM (Z32) and now suspecting its the TPS..

Regards,

Darren

Cranbourne

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/401566-borrow-a-tps/
Share on other sites

if the TPS was toast id expect your idle would be pretty ordinary or it would idle peg at like 1100rpm constant

how does it idle

the engine check light would also be on for f**ked tps

there is no rev cut that im aware of for dead TPS, but there is for dead AFM, it caps at 2500rpm

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/401566-borrow-a-tps/#findComment-6381215
Share on other sites

I had a look at it last night for him, its a z32, I tried the solder fix, no good. I swapped it for another z32, still no good. Perhaps they were both dead? I cleaned the plugs etc but the ecutalk was showing a good afm voltage output so we looked elsewhere for the source of the limp mode. Do you know anyone with another z32 to try anyway Darren? Otherwise you may need to get the wiring checked.

We noticed the tps on the ecu talk wont drop below 2.3v, shouldn't it be set to .47 or so at idle? The idle isn't very good either...

One other thing, the 2k rev cut only seems to happen when its at operating temp.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/401566-borrow-a-tps/#findComment-6381304
Share on other sites

Unfortunately I dont know of anyone with a spare Z32 AFM to swap & check.

But if anyone reads this and is willing to let me test this out for 10mins I would be very gratefull..

I live in Cranbourne.

The idle has always been a little high & I need to cleen my AAC as sometimes it gets upwards of 1800 or so (another problem)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/401566-borrow-a-tps/#findComment-6381330
Share on other sites

Damm Brett, would of been over there if only I had seen your post.

Thanks anyway for the offer though mate as I just just picked up both AFM & TPS.

Now when i went for a drive and fanged it to warm it up to operating temp 80degrees or so and its now not doing the 2000rpm cut WTF?

I at least have these spares now so that when it starts i can change one at a time to see if it fixes the fault

Does anyone know exactly the operating voltage for the z32 AFM & TPS for Ign, Idle & WOT (R33 GTST SERIES II)

Thanks,

Darren

Edited by itshimdazza
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/401566-borrow-a-tps/#findComment-6381467
Share on other sites

get the service manual and look it up .... ?

TPS at idle (or closed throttle) should be 0.35 ish v to around 0.40ish volts. if you are seeing 2.3v at idle or (closed throttle) your sensor is f**ked or throttle body isnt closed properly

AFM at idle for standrd AFM or z32 should be around 1.1v ish give or take.

be sure to note, with IGN on, but not engine running, AFM (regarless) should be 0.5v ish

TPS should be 0.33v ish.

with engine running at idle, AFM should climb to 1.1v instantly and TPS should be the same unitl you press the accel pedal

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/401566-borrow-a-tps/#findComment-6392273
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hows your intake piping? Are you still running stock? Having in the stock AFM position would mean, if the BOV was shut/venting out, it'd create the almost stalling kind of effect right // "the rich pulse behaviour" due to MAF thinking air is flowing ? But this would be better than having the bov in the stock position + MAF on/just before cross over piping right?
    • Essentially, yes. Although I wouldn't put the AFM on the crossover pipe. I'd want to put it into what amounts to the correct size tube, which is more easily done in the intercooler pipework. I bought a mount tube for card stile AFM that replaces the stock AFM - although being a cheap AliExpress knockoff, it had not flange and I had to make and weld my own. But it is the same length and diameter as the stock RB AFM, goes on my airbox, etc etc. I don't have a sick enough rig to warrant anything different, and the swap will take 5 minutes (when I finally get around to it and the injectors & the dyno tune).
    • So to summarise, the best thing to do is to move recirc to between turbo and IC, and maf on the crossover pipe. Meaning I'd need a recirc flange, drill a hole in the piping on turbo outlet area. And drill hole on crossover to fit/weld maf sensor? Either that or put the MAF on the turbo inlet right?  Is an aftermarket recirc/blowoff valve recommended? Do currently have family in Japan so could probably bring something back with maybe a cheeky lil SuperAutobacs run?
    • Yep, so far most have said that it looks like corrosion on the wall from piston not moving. Which then has probably damaged the oil rings and caused those vertical marks. The longest the engine was still after the rebuild, was the winter of 2018 - 2019, plus the boat trip to Japan. When I shipped the car, it had normal gas in the tank but before that winter pause, it had E85 in tank.  In any case, even if either one of those was the cause, it happened close to 6 years ago and the car has been driven something like 30 000kms after the fact. Again, apart from the plugs and the dip stick, there is nothing in the way the car runs that would indicate what has been going on in the engine. I am going to consult a shop and ask their opinion, what would be the best approach. I do have some access to a garage I could use to diagnose further myself, but time is very restrictive. Might end up buying another engine that could be used while this one is being remedied. Without pulling the head, it will be impossible to find out if it needs another bore, but here's to hoping a hone would suffice.  Goddamnit, I would really have preferred this not happening.  
    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
×
×
  • Create New...