Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

any in the SE suburbs available to borrow a TPS for 5mins to check out my car?

Have a problem with the car not revving past 2000rpm & have changed the AFM (Z32) and now suspecting its the TPS..

Regards,

Darren

Cranbourne

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/401566-borrow-a-tps/
Share on other sites

if the TPS was toast id expect your idle would be pretty ordinary or it would idle peg at like 1100rpm constant

how does it idle

the engine check light would also be on for f**ked tps

there is no rev cut that im aware of for dead TPS, but there is for dead AFM, it caps at 2500rpm

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/401566-borrow-a-tps/#findComment-6381215
Share on other sites

I had a look at it last night for him, its a z32, I tried the solder fix, no good. I swapped it for another z32, still no good. Perhaps they were both dead? I cleaned the plugs etc but the ecutalk was showing a good afm voltage output so we looked elsewhere for the source of the limp mode. Do you know anyone with another z32 to try anyway Darren? Otherwise you may need to get the wiring checked.

We noticed the tps on the ecu talk wont drop below 2.3v, shouldn't it be set to .47 or so at idle? The idle isn't very good either...

One other thing, the 2k rev cut only seems to happen when its at operating temp.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/401566-borrow-a-tps/#findComment-6381304
Share on other sites

Unfortunately I dont know of anyone with a spare Z32 AFM to swap & check.

But if anyone reads this and is willing to let me test this out for 10mins I would be very gratefull..

I live in Cranbourne.

The idle has always been a little high & I need to cleen my AAC as sometimes it gets upwards of 1800 or so (another problem)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/401566-borrow-a-tps/#findComment-6381330
Share on other sites

Damm Brett, would of been over there if only I had seen your post.

Thanks anyway for the offer though mate as I just just picked up both AFM & TPS.

Now when i went for a drive and fanged it to warm it up to operating temp 80degrees or so and its now not doing the 2000rpm cut WTF?

I at least have these spares now so that when it starts i can change one at a time to see if it fixes the fault

Does anyone know exactly the operating voltage for the z32 AFM & TPS for Ign, Idle & WOT (R33 GTST SERIES II)

Thanks,

Darren

Edited by itshimdazza
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/401566-borrow-a-tps/#findComment-6381467
Share on other sites

get the service manual and look it up .... ?

TPS at idle (or closed throttle) should be 0.35 ish v to around 0.40ish volts. if you are seeing 2.3v at idle or (closed throttle) your sensor is f**ked or throttle body isnt closed properly

AFM at idle for standrd AFM or z32 should be around 1.1v ish give or take.

be sure to note, with IGN on, but not engine running, AFM (regarless) should be 0.5v ish

TPS should be 0.33v ish.

with engine running at idle, AFM should climb to 1.1v instantly and TPS should be the same unitl you press the accel pedal

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/401566-borrow-a-tps/#findComment-6392273
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I suppose that's true. Barring almost any situation, I'll never sell so what the market does is kind of irrelevant to me. It's possible I'd make most of my money back. That spreadsheet I mentioned? Maybe I could make back more than what the car's total costs thus far are, but the parts and all that is possibly a different story... Thanks for reading. It was certainly a good moment and just makes the ties to the car that much stronger. It's exciting that the option will be there to bring it over, however I have some plans with a shop that may end up keeping the car there longer, not sure. Coupled with the fact I want to move there and haven't solidified any path yet. So in a way, it feels like I'm in a limbo state that is uncertain; time will tell.
    • No worries, everything worked out in the end. I just wanted to make the point that it doesn't matter where it comes from (I.E Australia), it can be broken or improperly built. I would still purchase from these companies in the future. B2R - Not certain how that finished, this was on a car I wired a few things and street tuned. I know the owner ended up shipping the motor back to Australia for investigation. Hopefully some of it is covered under warranty.  Turbosmart - I always pressure test everything that goes on my car. It's a habit from my career in oil and gas. I run two 40mm's and both had major leaks from the actuator to exhaust portion through the shaft. I returned both, they shipped me back two and one was leaking and the other had a 38mm top (40mm gate with 38mm actuator cap, no idea how that happens). Eventually after a lot of back and forth I found myself with two non-leaking gates. I believe this happens a lot more then people would like to believe but you would never know if you don't pressure test them prior to installation. Crank Motorsport - Issued a full refund and let me keep the seat rails. I turned them into scrap metal for other projects. GKTech - Shipped me out a replacement and asked that I modify it as per my idea and that they would do the same for a future revision. ATP - Can just needed a large shim to bolt up properly.  Haltech - They started an actual proper Beta channel for firmware's a few months back and stopped using the general public for testing. I'm now much happier.  Speedtek - f**k Speedtek. I would love to watch them burn.     
    • I've got a Turbosmart wastegate, ATP catch can, many GK Tech parts and Haltech everything. Everything's been perfect, sorry to hear your experience wasn't the same
    • The only high-power RB I've personally seen go pop after running for all of an hour on a dyno was built by B2R, while being remotely tuned by B2R. The only wastegates I've ever had leak like a sieve, return, still leak, return and get shipped back the wrong ones were from Turbosmart. The only final drive that I've ever purchased that were unusable, twice... were from Speedtek. The only seat mounts that I've ever purchased that placed the seats in the door frame were from Crank Motorsport. The only poorly designed parts that I had the manufacturer confirm should have been designed as per what I mentioned were from GKTech. The only ECU I've had firmware updates consistently break things are Haltech. The only catch can I've purchased that didn't fit in its advertised spot was from ATP. So forth and so on... Moral of the story, doesn't matter where it's from. Do your research beforehand and stick with products and companies you've trusted in the past.    @joshuaho96 If you want it done right, do it yourself.
    • Something coarse-ish. 180 is good.
×
×
  • Create New...