Airbox Mods And Turbo Intake Pipe Replacements

[shane344]

Does anyone know if there is a Nissan interchangeable lid for S2 C34s?

I was looking at the snorkel part that feeds over the rad support and it would be nice if it were bigger I guess.

Also as a seperate idea I was thinking of holesawing the lid of the airbox behind the healdight (only the lid obviously so I dont bypass the filter).

Anyone done this with any results.

My overall goal is to have my engine bay always look stock (for the popo) but would like to remove intake restrictions.

I know that the intake pipe can suck shut as flow increases also, so would like to swap for something smoother and stiffer whilst keeping factory looks.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SILICON-INTAKE-PIPE-4-SKYLINE-R33-GTST-R34-GTT-STAGEA-/170841624520?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27c6f44fc8

The link above seems legit and says it matches R34 NEO but not 99 onwards C34s?

Is the ebay seller just unsure of the models?

[scotty nm35]

Those ones suck closed quicker than the stock rubber one. Silicone gets very pliable when hot. You need an alloy one.

[Jezboosted]

It's quite hilarious to see them put metal rings on the outside to prevent ballooning on a pipe that only has vacuum!!! As scott said - get an aluminium one.

In terms of the airbox, there is such small gains to be had in this area, that the factory job is a-ok. Sure you can put a hole in it.... then what ?? hot air from engine bay ? route a flexi hose to ? get water in ?

I never had the factory airbox (car came with pod) so i made up my own heatshield and front air duct larger than the standard ones. Tests have proven very little in terms of positive gains when mucking around with airboxes.

This is what i did - http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/348629-what-have-you-done-to-your-stagea-lately/page__st__4200

The turbo's gonna heat it up anyway, so possibly focusing on better intercooler temps ( better ducting, removing some inner guard plastics, fans/sprays ?, upgrade ) and also better underbonnet temps ( remove heat shields, partial rear bonnet seal, bonnet spacers ).

[shane344]

Those ones suck closed quicker than the stock rubber one. Silicone gets very pliable when hot. You need an alloy one.

Glad i asked about the silcon intake, thanks, I couldnt see why the metal rings were there either.

I will probably do the 'put a short piece of ally pipe down the centre section of the stock pipe' instead thats in the DIY thing.

As for the airbox holes, I was kinda hoping for a little more induction noise without going backwards regarding hot air or water inlets.

Ill probs just leave it....

Forget I said anything.

[wolverine]

It's quite hilarious to see them put metal rings on the outside to prevent ballooning on a pipe that only has vacuum!!! As scott said - get an aluminium one.

The rings aren't there to stop ballooning but they are there to keep the pipe from flattening out under vacuum.

[KiwiRS4T]

Glad i asked about the silcon intake, thanks, I couldnt see why the metal rings were there either.

I will probably do the 'put a short piece of ally pipe down the centre section of the stock pipe' instead thats in the DIY thing.

As for the airbox holes, I was kinda hoping for a little more induction noise without going backwards regarding hot air or water inlets.

Ill probs just leave it....

Forget I said anything.

When I had my RB25DET I used the stock airbox and snorkel and made a hole in the top of the airbox and ran a duct to behind the headlight (plenty of air gets through there). Didn't really get to test it as I broke a few ringlands and had to pull the engine but its fairly easy and cheap to do - why not give it a go?