Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I had an issue where when I was cruising for some distance my tune was running rich and fouling plugs. Around town was fine but any highway use it was playing up next day on cold start. I backed the map off only slightly on that fuel cell and it has fixed the problem. Just thought i would mention that sounds it could be the same

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Definitely a possibility, if I was to pull the plugs after a failed idle when I start it how could I tell if they are fouled easily?

Actually the only times the car idled well was when we first put the injectors in, then it went to shit, and then I changed the plugs before the tune and it was shit after that, then came good for a week then went shit again.

Maybe they have just fouled up badly.

Edited by Rolls

Is ur fuel pressure stable? Ie has the pump been rewired to battery voltage?

Is 02 feedback enabled?

If u have the software or consult keep a close eye on inj duty when idle is good and when idle is playing up. Let me know the readings

Fuel pump is new and rewired to battery voltage, O2 feedback is enabled as well, just need to borrow a laptop so I can run consult again.

Does anyone know what the "Fuel Dumper" is? as I did not get this part when I bought my fuel rail, is it a dampener of some sort? Perhaps this could be my issue.

70105224.png

Seems like a misfire when cold, cannot figure out why though, really need to get a wideband in the exhaust to see if it is going lean/rich or if it is super rich at idle fouling the plugs.

Bummer because I have neither a wideband, nor a nistune license.

Hey, that's awesome. The country I am in cannot be typed in spelled correctly, because it gets replaced with what you see in my post above. Just for the fun of it, the country I am in is bordered by Greece, Albania, Syria, Iraq, Iran and Armenia, with coasts on the Black, Adriatic and Agean Seas.

And in some respects it is the sphinter of the universe!! Although I don't mind it. Sphincters are not all bad.

Am trying to make the kiln burner here work properly. I designed it last year, installed in February, and it hasn't worked properly since. Has in fact made the whole plant worse. It's my fault and it's not my fault. Bloody plant has huge issues. Given the huge issues I should have called the whole thing off instead of proceding. But I let optimism strike me, went ahead with it, optimism bailed on the deal and left me with a handful of poo. The goat lovers are also not very able to handle the subtleties of a carefully written performance guarantee, and refuse to accept that given that the plant is poo, it is not entirely my fault that my burner made it smell worse.

Rolls my idle sounds very similar to yours.

I idle at around 1400-1500 when cold and it hunts randomly and sits there missing until warm.

Once warm idle drops to around 700 and them every now and then hunts but does not miss.

If you take it for a drive when cold

As you take your foot off and coast you can feel it missing.

All goes away when warm

Hmm this morning it was much much better, I didn't drive the car yesterday at all so it must have been completely stone cold, still did a slight miss for 3 seconds then come good for 3 seconds but it didn't want to stall, just went from 1300rpm to 1000-1100rpm.

Tonight it was back shit again wanting to stall from 1300 to 400rpm.

I have my laptop back so I will plug in consult and do a dump of injectors/afm etc vs rpm when its cold see if it is an ECU or mechanical problem, I personally think it is fouling the plugs up from possibly too rich an idle.

Is ur fuel pressure stable? Ie has the pump been rewired to battery voltage?

Is 02 feedback enabled?

If u have the software or consult keep a close eye on inj duty when idle is good and when idle is playing up. Let me know the readings

Ok did a log when cold, when at 1200rpm the duty cycle is 1-2 and pulse width is 2.2ms, when it stumbles duty is 1 and pulse width grows to 2.5ms all the way to 3ms when it starts missing badly, timing changes from 30 to 34 when stumbling, acc duty increases slightly.

Stab the throttle and it goes back to 1200 and duty at 2, pulse at 2.2ms, starts to stumble and go up to 2.8ms etc.

Would this be as simple as just changing the cold start enrichment at 20-30c so it is slightly less rich? I'm going to buy a license next month so will have a fiddle then.

So I am guessing the cold start is just simply too rich

Edited by Rolls

Its possible. Bust never assume its too rich without having a wideband to tell u afr.

The timing doesn't seem right. It should not be at 30 degree's at idle. That tells me ur tps may not be setup correctly. Try dropping the tps back a tad ie: if its at .5 try .46

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, that was one of the things we learned fast in the past with our MX5. When you drive with the top down, you are effectively standing out in the sun, 100% of the time, and not getting in any shade (because roads aren't shaded generally!). Just like standing out in the middle of a field on a sunny 27C day is a bit of a bad plan, so is sitting in a MX5 without sun protection.
    • I also just ordered some Frankenstein bolts and side mounts to fit a hard top Just in case I do find one, basically so it doesn't need to be fixed to the car with only the front latch.......and then gaffa tape to keep it in place for the RTN journey from wherever I get it
    • If your temps are fine now, you probably won't have any issues with where your vents are as they don't look right up at the windscreens high pressure area, so any differences when giving it the beans for extended happy laps would be minimal, but, they should vent heaps when stuck in traffic  Much like how that reverse cowl on my SS let "visible" heat out when stationary, but, because it was basically at the windscreen my coolant temps on the Hwy actually raised because air was being fed into it at speed (110kph), to only come back down to around 90° when I got off the Hwy And your 100% correct about the NC currently not needing vents, but, if I was to add a turbo, and a oil cooler and intercooler in front of the condenserand radiator, and then take it to the track???? It is apparently a recommend requirement if I don't want to worry about coolant or oil temp issues, but, any of the above are possible scenarios, over time As it sits now, with the triple pass radiator and stock air conditioning system, I have absolutely no issues with either temps or air conditioning efficiency, I've been basically daily driving thie car for the last month, both on the Hwy, and peak hour, bumper to bumper traffic, but, that's pretty much expected from basically a standard engine  Talking about no issues daily driving, it was 39° the other day and I was sitting in bumper to bumper traffic on the M5 and then M7, with the top down, and with the air conditioning blowing nice cold air on my feet, balls, and face, well, there was one issue, my head and arms got pretty sun burnt Note to self: leave a hat and sunscreen in the car for such days 🤣
    • I would agree, unless you need something specific to the HV motor/battery side repaired or investigated, any mechanic will be able to perform normal services, but if you prefer, maybe look for a mechanic who regularly services/repairs Nissans, the VQ engines are pretty common in the Nissan lineup.  Sorry, I can't make any suggestions, I don't live in Vic.
    • Some of them keep working fine. 9 out of 10 of them end up causing an absolute misery bleeding the system and get thrown on the workshop floor in a tantrum and never thought about again because they were never really needed and just added crap to the car that we could have done without. Same-same with HICAS, A-LSD, and various other stupidities that over eager 10x engineers thought we had to have.
×
×
  • Create New...